ok i bought a lanzer 2400 watt max pro amp to power 2 rl-i8 form soundsplinter. I know that amp is not the best but for 140 shipped wasn't bad so what ya

Model number? Curious for actual output.

Features:

o Electronic Crossover Network

o Bass Boost Circuit

o Variable Phase Shift Control

o 2 Ohms Stereo Stable

o Anti-Thump Turn-On

o Soft Turn On/Off

o High & Low Level Inputs

o Blue Light Illuminated Crossover Control

o Power & Protection LED Indicators

o Advanced Protection Circuitry

o Bass Boost Remote Control

* Specifications

o Rated Power :

+ 2 x 600 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms

+ 2 x 1200 Watts Max at 4 Ohms

+ 1 x 2400 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged

+ 2 x 1000 Watts at 2 Ohms RMS

o THD : 0.04%

o S/N Ratio : > 90 dB

o Channel Separation : > 65 dB

o Frequency Response : 15 Hz - 35 kHz

o Crossover Filters :

+ Low Pass : 35 - 400 Hz

+ High Pass : 80 Hz - 2.5 kHz

o Bass Boost : + 18 dB

o Fuse Ratings : 25 A x 2

o Dimensions (W x H x L) : 10.47" x 2.46" x 19"

max pro its a 252 model

with that fuse and it being class a/b, you'd be lucky to output 500wrms.

I say 300-430w. If you pop the fuses, you went into clipping...

this may sound dumd but i am not sure what ya mea lol meaning i am dumb when it comes to this chit so dumb it down a lil bit. If i under stand right u r saying i wont make the power and i will fudge up the sub?

no, what i'm saying it that amp is only good it you want to power some co-axials or components.

For higher powered applications such as subwoofers, it doesn't deliver what today's subs can do unless you are looking for the lowest entry line possible out of a company.

Lanzar's optidrive line is the only line worth getting for subwoofers.

You there are a couple more models that aren't in that line but to keep it easy, that's their only good line.

You can't really damage a sub regardless of how low the output power is unless you start physically breaking it's mechanical or thermal limits which is almost always caused by clipping.