Do you think that a company should replace a blown woofer when the install used the factory recommended specs for a sealed enclosure size and the recommended power with no clipping???

Just wondering

can you prove there was no clipping?

they'll cover manufacturer defects, but they won't cover stupidity

define blow? u burnt the coils or did the driver fell apart?

can you prove there was no clipping?

they'll cover manufacturer defects, but they won't cover stupidity

i was thinkin the same thing... i thought it maybe rude to say

former was bent from bottoming out. I set the amp up with a tone with no audible clipping. I know what clipping sounds like when playing a tone. I backed off from clipping.

I am not stupid when it comes to installing electronics.

Guess what company this is though??

Not from me =] I would like to the know the details of your system just because i think its interesting that a woofer would run out of rearward clearence with only RMS power going to it. It's even harder to do in a sealed application,

Do you think that a company should replace a blown woofer when the install used the factory recommended specs for a sealed enclosure size and the recommended power with no clipping???

Just wondering

short answer- NO,

its a shallow mount sub Elemental Designs SQ10, .4 cu ft sealed enclosure downfiring, JBLCS200.1

Edited February 22, 200817 yr by aznboi3644

Wow...a problem with eD?

I would have never guessed.

I think you should make a new baffle for your tline and give it hell.

I do think they should refund your money or atlest repair it.

good ole ed

IMO the sub shouldn't be rated for more than 150 watts.

I sent the sub in to eD...recone and shipping back is $42

So much for their "awesome" 5 year warranty with the recommended size enclosure and power according to the "power chart"

Edited February 22, 200817 yr by aznboi3644

The older JL subs were fairly easy to reach the mechanical limits of with rated power in the recommended box. As were the older Kickers (comps and the first couple series of Solobarics especially). Subs are usually rated for thermal power handling, not mechanical. There have been a few companies that do provide rated power based on the spec box that the sub is in but those are the exception not the rule.

Well I thought it could handle the power mechanically considering the enclosure was smaller than the "ideal" size of 1/2 cu ft.

I dont care what company tells you it's ok not to use a SSF, do yourself a favor and disregard that information.

Regardless of what size box you use for a sealed box, even if it's 0.00000000000000000001 cu ft, Use a subsonic filter!

It will not only prevent this from happening but will also save on your electrical system and keep your amp more efficient during playback.

Regardless of what size box you use for a sealed box, even if it's 0.00000000000000000001 cu ft, Use a subsonic filter!

And destroy one of the reasons for going sealed in the first place?

There's plenty of people running IB with no SSF's, it's all about being careful (and using products with enough rearward travel for the application desired)

Explain to me please how it will save your electrical & make your amp more efficient? I'm real curious.

for the Noob's, using a SSF will prevent this problem because... the larger the box, the more efficient but generally the less power it can take without changing anything else.

Most recent post -

It will save on your electrical system the same way it makes the amp more efficient.

If there was no SSF in use, then it can play frequencies as long as the amp can handle.

Let's say the amp can handle 5 hz at it's lowest.

Let's say that anything under 20hz is pointless to you because it starts rattle the hell out of your car and you hear more destruction than reproduction.

That's wasted power. Let alone resistance rise may be very low in that range which would result in a lot of power draw. Not saying it would but can, depending on the box.

Efficiency - Simple, the more narrow the frequency range, the better the amp will perform because it puts less stress on the electrical system.

But back to the post, If you are not fluent with when to use more or less power, then please use SSF for all types of install.

When setting up an amp, it is advised(this is what i do) to not only set the amp up non-clipped, but to all make sure that you never exceed the mechanical limits of the driver(s) by testing the frequencies at which will be sent to the driver(s). I use test tones for this so if they pass, anything will pass since they are recorded at the highest level.

Let's say that anything under 20hz is pointless to you because it starts rattle the hell out of your car and you hear more destruction than reproduction.

That's an installation problem...given the right setup, it's not pointless

Also, once you get below the peak at resonance, impedance is decreasing...but not any more than above Fs.

An amp doesn't care what frequency it is amplifying... efficiency won't change if it only has to play 1Hz vs. 20,000Hz...

Also going to mention that no recordings ever produced have had anything below 15Hz, and very few below 20Hz (cannons in 1812 Overture are the only thing that quickly comes to mind).

Impedance will never go below nominal... unless the coil shorts out.

You are correct, box size (or lack of enclosure) will be one factor that determines which frequency the subwoofer will unload at, but that other crap is complete nonsense.

SSF frequency had nothing to do with this, at all. Might have had more to do with the subwoofer downfiring, and the associated sag.

Also going to mention that no recordings ever produced have had anything below 15Hz.

You know that's going to make me go out and find something recorded with the 64-foot stop of a pipe organ down to 8Hz, don't you?

hahaha, knew you would say that. I would like to see a picture of it!

have you ever done any setups in a car over 1,200w of actual real power?

When you say proper, are you referring to sound deadening?

I got a vid on RoE of where i added my own bass lines to the entire Another Brick in the Wall song, all 3 parts joined then slowed down. All the bass mostly is very low.

This is from an older install i had.

Now, if you're referring to sound deadening, then yea i understand about how 20hz or any very low bass will sound good if the car doesn't rattle but you are talkin about a lot of product there.

Here's the vid, this is violent shaking, watch the box itself, it has 15 3\4" bolts bolted through the floor. A LOT of pressure -

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Audioque/hd15.1.wmv

This happened a week after installation...brand new sub.

i dont refer to things below 20 hz as music either. This track i made i'm sure goes below but RoE wouldnt let me post the full 16 min video.

When i refer to efficiency, i'm referring to the efficiency of the electrical system, not the amp, sorry if u misunderstood me.

And about impedance rise-

This video above, DCR is 0.7 ohms. Typical resistance rise over frequencies around 2.2-2.8 ohms. Rise at peak (31hz) was 4.3 ohms.

When playing music, rise is always present, i know you know this but a lot higher than DCR.

I was able to drop rise down to 1.6 ohms but no lower than that in that box.

Bass tracks are a LOT stronger than music. This is what i am referring to when talking about 20hz and lower. That puts stress on electrical system. I don't see a need in amplifying that range because it's... well i'll leave it there.

Its a sealed box. You'd maybe have a point with a ported one. But not with sealed.