hi everyone. I would like to make a purchase for BTL 18" 4000 Watt X 2. So i want your advice which is the most suitable amplifier and mono amplifier to support it.

Need help..

Hi Albert. What's your budget like and have you done any electrical upgrades to support a 4000w amplifier?

Let me tell u what I have been told since u wanna use a 4kw amp.

The btls use a 3" coil so constant power of over 1500w should not be done.

Examples for a 4kw amp-

Its most likely spec'd as-

2k @4ohm

3k @2ohm

4k @1ohm

Wired at 0.7, even with a rise 6x DCR, it would still be overpowering it for long periods of time IF YOU WERE PLAYING TRACKS WITH NON STOP BASS such as test tones or some lil jon songs.

If u plan on doing that, do for very short periods or u will start to heat it up too much.

You can actually run as much as 3,000w of power, REAL POWER, but only if the audio tracks contain non continuous bass lines. At 3,000w however, caution needs to be taken so monitor heat buildup for a few weeks to determine if your setup is proper.

4k,in my opinion, shoul be the most powerful amp for a single btl for daily, though I would rather see a 3,500w amp instead for recomendation.

Hope this helps everyone.

Hi Albert. What's your budget like and have you done any electrical upgrades to support a 4000w amplifier?

my budget is around USD4000 and i think i will use an additional power supply (battery) to support this.

Let me tell u what I have been told since u wanna use a 4kw amp.

The btls use a 3" coil so constant power of over 1500w should not be done.

Examples for a 4kw amp-

Its most likely spec'd as-

2k @4ohm

3k @2ohm

4k @1ohm

Wired at 0.7, even with a rise 6x DCR, it would still be overpowering it for long periods of time IF YOU WERE PLAYING TRACKS WITH NON STOP BASS such as test tones or some lil jon songs.

If u plan on doing that, do for very short periods or u will start to heat it up too much.

You can actually run as much as 3,000w of power, REAL POWER, but only if the audio tracks contain non continuous bass lines. At 3,000w however, caution needs to be taken so monitor heat buildup for a few weeks to determine if your setup is proper.

4k,in my opinion, shoul be the most powerful amp for a single btl for daily, though I would rather see a 3,500w amp instead for recomendation.

Hope this helps everyone.

thanks..can you give me which model for amp and mono amp suitable for this 4000w 18"btl.

Thanks

Here is a list of amps I'd recommend using and approx price, if I know it by heart, u can get them for that can get max potential, in my opinion, out of a single BTL-

Sundown SAZ-3000D 1099

Lanzar 6000D 1049 may need slight power attenuation.

Strapped Lanzar 2000ds (1ohm strapped stable daily) 768

if u need more options, let me know

Here is a list of amps I'd recommend using and approx price, if I know it by heart, u can get them for that can get max potential, in my opinion, out of a single BTL-

Sundown SAZ-3000D 1099

Lanzar 6000D 1049 may need slight power attenuation.

Strapped Lanzar 2000ds (1ohm strapped stable daily) 768

if u need more options, let me know

thanks.. can you give the website address that i can make a purchases for this amp. So that i can decide which amp i prefer. Thanks

IA 40.1 used. $750.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...;highlight=40.1

Edited February 27, 200817 yr by BKOLFO4

you buy the sundown from this website.

The Lanzar 6000D, type that in yahoo.com and search. there is a company selling it for $999+shipping somewhere, i've seen it.

The Lanzar 2000Ds can be found on ebay or other places for about $338 per amp+shipping.

Both Lanzar amps are the Optidrive line so they will be called Opti-6000D and Opti-2000D

The sundown is SAZ-3000D. Email this website or email Sundown them self at www.sundownaudio.com to request a current price because you might be able to get it cheaper than 1099.

Power ratings as i know them from memory-

i do not know voltage drop off the top of my head but when i research wattage output, i'm only interested in voltage readings from 10.5-13.8v so keep that in mind.

The following are rough and close approximations of real testing.

Sundown 3000d -

2,500w at 2ohms

3,200w at 1ohms

Lanzar 2000D strapped -

3,900w @ 1ohm

3,200w @ 2ohm

2,200 @ 4ohm

Those tests were done on 13.8v.

Lanzar 6000D -

following test done on 12.6v

1,600w @4ohm

2,700w @2ohm

3,600w @1ohm

following test done on 14.4v

2,100w @4ohm

3,600w @2ohm

4,800w @1ohm

All of these amps are stable to run a dual 2ohm BTL wired in parallel.

Note - If you like the Lanzar Opti-6000D's power ratings, that's why i mentioned above may need power attentuation.

Look at the 12.6v rating - even @4ohm is 1,600w of power. That's almost a full 6x increase in impedance rise and with a crappy electrical system (which is worse case scenario), that amp can murder a BTL if not attenuated.

The strapped 2000ds are not any better because the 4ohm level is actually higher than the 6000d and still as powerful at 2ohm as the 6000d.

The sundown gives you a safety for a BTL install.

I do not know it's 4ohm rating but 2,500w at 2ohm is close to max output what you'll get from music off of a dual 1.5 in parallel.

If you get lower than 2ohms after rise on straight bass, be careful with the sundown too.

x2 on the 40.1s

I read on the sundown forum that when they tested a 3000D, it still pushed 3200 watts pretty cleanly at 10.75 volts, IMO that's pretty damn impressive, i'd say that amp is capable to do a lot more than 3200 watts at 1 ohm.

but in a stable environment, you're not gonna get that much power in a daily setup.

And that amp will never see a 1ohm load either during play unless it's wired in a "risky" installation.

When i look for amps, of course i have to make sure it can safely handle the subs that will be wired to it.

1 D2 sub wired in parallel, need a 1ohm stable amp. 2 ohm ratings and higher are more relevant than 1 ohm. 0.7DCR to rise to 1ohm even would be so hard, i do not even know if that's possible, or at least in a ported enclosure.

Typically, when i've tested setups, i see impedance rise at it's lowest point around double that of DCR on average.

0.9 rise to 1.7 at it's lowest point. Average anywhere from 2.2 - 6.x

When you are going to be using an amp to push a sub's thermal limits, gotta know what it can do at the right resistance levels or one should step down the power altogether.

Jacob's tests weren't in a stable environment.

Those tests are real world power. Exactly what you'll see in a car with a 1 ohm load.

Well, kinda

When he did tests at 0.7 ohms DCR or higher, that's safe. I've never messed with 0.6 DCR so can't comment on that, but i do know that 0.5 and lower DCR, is hella risky for daily. All it takes is for a very brief period where the rise falls below 1ohm, that's bad.

I went back over his tests. He never did 0.7 dcr unless i missed it.

He did do 0.6 which rose to 1.33 giving more than 3,200w.

In my experience though with different enclosures, this one enclosure i had did not fall down that low in resistance until after 50hz. It was tuned to 29hz. After 50hz, it would draw this monstrous amount of current and would not be that loud at all. 6.5" midbass drivers could have been louder than what i was hearing when put in proper enclosures.

The majority of the frequency range that was loud, 30-45hz, resistance stayed above 2.3ohms and where it peaked at was above 4ohms.

It can be dangerous if you are unaware of the draw if you have an awesome electrical system.

Reason being is, again in this instance with this enclosure i had, when it drew this monstrous amount of current, the sub wasn't even hardly moving. It had no way of cooling itself down as good compared to other frequencies. It was just being fed this power and practically just sitting there.

Yea, johnecon2001, i overlooked the 1.33 reading on the 3000d. However even though i see it now, that rise "may", not guaranteed, only happen in the upper playable range where it probably needs to be x-overed at anyway. anything around or just after tuning should be very high.

which is more stable and powerful. Fi BTL 15' 4000watt or Orion HCCA 15' 4000watt?

Please advise

for thermal handling, the Orion would be because it has a larger coil.

Also, if you do decide on going with the orion, pay close attention to the manual's recommendations. You are suggested to mount the sub facing straight up or down, do not have it facing towards the front or the rear.

From the specs though, it sounds like an interesting driver.

It has a pretty low EBP value.

Only required to be put in 3.5cubes ported, ultra low Fs, over 1" xmax, 4" coil, very heavy sub and has more radiating area than a BTL of the same size...

But is it better?

Who knows...

To me, it sounds like the HCCA is trying to remain "clear" while being loud at the same time. IT can't go below 24hz and supposedly it's 5db less efficient than a BTL if measured the same. The BTL's are meant to be in ported boxes to get every last bit out of them to be hella loud, that's not how the HCCAs are though... Although, the HCCA's have other specs that excel over the BTL so i can't really guess because they both have great specs. I just think the Orion is more geared toward keeping the quality a little smoother whereas the BTL is geared toward... WHAT? u get the picture