If I were to get a pair of 12'' BLs (with cooling, flatwind, daily, lead)

What would you recommend me doing to make it sound clean and keep my car running without no stalling. (I have also ordered a Dynamat Trunk Kit too)

(Recommend as in amp and box size, and capacitor size.)

Also

I have a 95 Honda Accord.

I looked for the 3 parts to the big 3, only winded up finding 2 of them.

1.) Alt-Batt

2.) (-) Batt to Chassis

3.)

I cant find:

Batt-engine

Any help would be much appriciated.

Thanks,

-Curt

If your battery is securely grounded to the chassis, that's good enough.

If your battery is securely grounded to the chassis, that's good enough.

I don't want to make this like a half ass job. But thanks for the input. I will keep that in mind if it becomes my last resort.

Once again,

Thanks,

-Curt

A battery-to-engine ground is superfluous...what you want, if anything, is the engine grounded to the chassis if the mounts are insulating it.

Acutally, your right, I asked my dad, he had a look, and he told me that it was already grounded. Thanks for the help Jim.

Also, if I were to get 2 12''BLs what amp would you recommend?

Edited March 11, 200817 yr by hondaccord

Well, since it sounds like ur serious, then this is what u r going to need-

2kw-2.5kw amp.

2-3 layers of sound deadening... Everywhere!

A 200-300alt, depending on batt capacity.

And for batts- approx 120aH worth just for stereo system.

I also recommend cadence fh-8 to anyone because they can shut off amp power if voltage ever drops below 12v.

No capacitors, please! Batts are way better.

From front to rear, approx 10,000 strands of wire run to have voltage drop to rear very minimal. Approx no worse than .2 - .3v if that.

That would equal -

2 3/0s

2 1/0 knuconceptz kolossus

3 1/0 anyone else

3-4 4awg

Run under car in metal flex conduit for more room.

Remember to silicon ANY holes that you drill up thru the car to secure the conduit.

Now, start preppin, hehe.

Thanks shizzon, I actually printed that out in case I lose this post. =)

For the Cadence FH-8, this isn't going up under the hood correct? I have a Memphis 150A fuse up front. Is this going to be sitting right next to the amp?

And without doing "The Big 3" as of now, my volts stays at 10.4 when my bass is hitting. When it is not hitting its resting at 12.4-12.7.

(I did order 1/0 Cables for "The Big 3" today and should be shipped out sometime this week.)

So the Cadence FH-8 won't be till later I assume.

Another battery?

H/O Alt?

This is going to be a nice little project over the summer.

lol, I am only a cashier that makes $7.75/hour at 27 hours/week. ($175.00 a week.)

But yes, I am definitely serious about this and increasing my obnoxious status at school.

Thanks,

-Curt

Edited March 12, 200817 yr by hondaccord

i think a sundown saz 1500d would do just fine in your car.... and if you do that.. then you dont even need that big of an alt... wait do thay even make a 300 amp for a honda..... and im guessing that this will be a streat beater.....

i agree with shizzon.. but hes a balls out SPl kinda guy from what i know of him...

with tha money your making i would do GOOD work... with good product. and you will be happy,.

im a street beater with SPL weekend use,. and i allways build on a budget... i alwlays make my goal.. and im not skiping on anything.. i have just want i need.

your reading 12.7 with the car on? hmm...

If you do everything or about 90% of everything i said above, if your voltage up front is 14.4v, then your voltage in rear should be 14.1-14.2v.

On hard bass notes, you shouldnt even drop below 13.5v with the setup above.

And I never let voltage dip below 11.8v. It's just a personal threshold for me. If it's dippin that low, either need to turn the volume down or get a better electrical system.

your reading 12.7 with the car on? hmm...

If you do everything or about 90% of everything i said above, if your voltage up front is 14.4v, then your voltage in rear should be 14.1-14.2v.

On hard bass notes, you shouldnt even drop below 13.5v with the setup above.

I have like an interstate battery up front, pretty sure that could be a reason why it is saying 12v unless all batteries say 12v. (Without The Big 3)

And I never let voltage dip below 11.8v. It's just a personal threshold for me. If it's dippin that low, either need to turn the volume down or get a better electrical system.

You also have what I am desperately needing, "The Big 3" Hopefully the wires come in sometime today after school. I hope I wont ever see what I am seeing again.

shizzon... that guy said he was getting 12.9 with the car runing? im sorry man i didnt see that he had stated that fact....... in that case im sorry i think shizzon is right, in way,,, i think theres a bigger problem... if you car is running.. with no A/C no headlights you should NEVER BE at 12 anything..... you should allways see 13.4-14.4...... the interstate while being a very bad choice, wont normaly cause a love voltage like that.. but it is posible. get a new one.. not an interstate.... and have your alt tested at vatozone...... i think its weak,... probile a bad dioed or even a regulator on the way out.

running more wire wont make your voltage rise above what it is... it will only trasfer what you have being produced better... right??..... right??

Edited March 12, 200817 yr by bigjon

This weekend I plan on calling Iraggi for a quote on a decent alternator for my car. If I showed you a picture of my engine, you would laugh...

My battery is beaten up, the alternators writing on it has faded, and to top it off, my engine has over 200,000 miles on it.

So next on my shopping list is a new battery in general. Not one for the trunk until later.

Any recommendations? I have looked around the forums and people were saying Kinetik is a good brand.

All this information is much appriciated.

Thanks,

-Curt