Thinking of starting a long process of putting a system in my 07' Altima. I was wondering how much deadener would I need to put one layer in the cabin of the car (floor board, 4 doors and trunk)? Gonna start puttting away some money for this before I even begin putting speakers and such. Thanks!!!

A few rolls...although you probably can go lighter on rear doors, multiple layers on the front doors...

You'll want to get some sort of sound absorbing layer too (Overkill).

If you are discretionary with the installation (unlike myself ), you could probably get away with a shop pack of Pro.

Would using the Spectrum be a wiser choice? I have the capabilities and tools to do the job. Anyone use the spectrum on here? Are there any advantages to using one over the other. From the website, it sounds like the two both do the job. Opinions please!!!!

Spectrum can be easier to apply to irregular surfaces, mat goes on smoothly when you're dealing with large flat panels but in tight spots or oddly shaped areas you might find that spraying Spectrum is easier...

They both have their uses

Jazz, for perspective, I am in the middle of slowly laying down SS Damp Pro on a '96 civic hatch. I have done two layers on the floor of the rear hatch area, nearly two on the small vertical portion of the hatch, the passenger side door only 1 layer so far, floor under the drivers seat and passenger seat = approx 60^2 Foot.

So if your car is a scale larger, I would say start with a little more then what I have done so far and that should be enough for a layer of Damplifier all around. What Second Skin has over other competitors is that it is flat sheets that seem to be easier to lay down for me.

I did 80sq in my explorer and that is with no roof I would need probably 80sq more to do the way I wanted it. but 80 defiantly made a gigantic difference. My 15 year old son comments on how quiet it is now as well. but thats just my experience with it. Damplifier is awesome

Edited April 7, 200817 yr by zedman

I used about 30 square feet of RAAMmat 60 per door

Very solid, though

damn reading these comments im starting to think im going to end up spending $300 or so just on the sound deading(sp)..lol

damn reading these comments im starting to think im going to end up spending $300 or so just on the sound deading(sp)..lol

A lot of SQ installs do end up spending that much just on deadening products. Considering what they do, though, it's worth it.

Now, whether you need things that deadened depends on your use and how picky you are

damn reading these comments im starting to think im going to end up spending $300 or so just on the sound deading(sp)..lol

A lot of SQ installs do end up spending that much just on deadening products. Considering what they do, though, it's worth it.

Now, whether you need things that deadened depends on your use and how picky you are

ya i need it and its worth it..i just get to thinking of the other things i could be buying for $300-$400..lol

Well, in terms of an audio system, if the doors flap like a hummingbird with the slightest amount of midbass and the noise floor is horrendous, there isn't much point in adding any extra money in it to begin with

Well, in terms of an audio system, if the doors flap like a hummingbird with the slightest amount of midbass and the noise floor is horrendous, there isn't much point in adding any extra money in it to begin with

lol ya your right..i just sent ant a email see what i can do here..

Edited April 8, 200817 yr by denalilvr

Well, in terms of an audio system, if the doors flap like a hummingbird with the slightest amount of midbass and the noise floor is horrendous, there isn't much point in adding any extra money in it to begin with

lol ya your right..i just sent ant a email see what i can do here..

My thing is, there are so many people that will lay down thousands on equipment, when they could spend much less, and use some of extra money on deadening. They will get a better result in the end, in sound and performance, and having to spend less on electrical support and lower strain on system/vehicle. It is more impressive to have, for example, a SoundSplinter RL-i / Sundown SAX-100.2 + some Second Skin Damplifier, play clean with no rattles, that keeps the sound in the car, have strong output all the way across the range, then someone buy a pair of DD 12's and an Atomic 5000 watt amp, and have rattles everywhere and poor sound.

A good metaphor is; an old BMW 2002i beating a Z06 around the race track. Anyone can spend big money on power, but that does not mean they can drive.

I've been told that for someone on a budget Spectrum/Sludge is the best way to go with overkill.

I went with 150 sqft of Raammat and still could have used another 50 for some double layering and such in my EC Silverado, but I also have 5 gallons of spectrum I need to install as well

Well, in terms of an audio system, if the doors flap like a hummingbird with the slightest amount of midbass and the noise floor is horrendous, there isn't much point in adding any extra money in it to begin with

lol ya your right..i just sent ant a email see what i can do here..

My thing is, there are so many people that will lay down thousands on equipment, when they could spend much less, and use some of extra money on deadening. They will get a better result in the end, in sound and performance, and having to spend less on electrical support and lower strain on system/vehicle. It is more impressive to have, for example, a SoundSplinter RL-i / Sundown SAX-100.2 + some Second Skin Damplifier, play clean with no rattles, that keeps the sound in the car, have strong output all the way across the range, then someone buy a pair of DD 12's and an Atomic 5000 watt amp, and have rattles everywhere and poor sound.

A good metaphor is; an old BMW 2002i beating a Z06 around the race track. Anyone can spend big money on power, but that does not mean they can drive.

thank you oh wise ninja