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Posted

Ok so this is my first time trying to build an enclosure on my own so it will probably end up looking a little rough. I started cutting yesterday and some of the pieces didnt turn out so well so I'm re-doing a few today. I will have some pics up later tonight when I finish.

The enclosure will be right around 1ft^3 with a 3inch aeroport after all displacements. I'll be picking up either a 10'' Icon or 10'' bl when I get some more money. I'm looking for a daily pounder that can replace two 12'' kappa perfects that were sealed.

Do the flared precision ports need a special type of 90 degree elbow in order to make a bend or can I just use any old elbow?

what tools are u using to cut the wood, maybe i can help you get your cuts more perfect

  • Author

Yesterday I was using a jigsaw and a circular saw but my dad needed a new table saw anyways so he figured he might as well get one today. So that is going to help a ton. How long after I apply the glue should I apply the caulk? I'm using 1-5/8'' drywall screws, titebond 2, sillicon caulk, jigsaw, tablesaw, circular saw.

Yesterday I was using a jigsaw and a circular saw but my dad needed a new table saw anyways so he figured he might as well get one today. So that is going to help a ton. How long after I apply the glue should I apply the caulk? I'm using 1-5/8'' drywall screws, titebond 2, sillicon caulk, jigsaw, tablesaw, circular saw.

dry wall screws are too fine of thread imo

  • Author

Here is a picture of how its going to look....I still need to glue, screw, and caulk. I'm not putting the baffle on until I decide on which sub to get. I have 500watts @ 2ohms for temporary power until I pick up a bigger amp. I'm probably going to go with a dual 1 ohm because the new amp might not be for a little while because I still need to re-do my interior speakers, pickup 2 channel amp, get a new battery, new wires, and big 3.

1001628au8.th.jpg

Also, heres a picture of my door....What would be the best place to mount the tweeters? Definitely can't do kickpanels because its a manual and I need the room down there. I'll probably get some p.g. rsd 6.5'' because I've heard good things for them being so inexpensive.

1001620xl5.th.jpg

If the cuts are straight and you made a good glue joint, caulk is a waste. The box is sealed already for the glue. If it isn't you didn't use enough glue. I usually just run a bead of glue on the inside of any joint in addition to the glue in the joint after I get it clamped or tacked into place.

  • Author

so I've got everything glued and screwed besides the top and front baffle. I'm still trying to figure out where I should have the port before I finish putting it together. The box is 8'' deep so I can either have it on the top or on the baffle. Any suggestions? How would a 10'' bl do off 500 watts for a month or so before I can get a bigger amp?

  • Author

Enclosure ended up being 1.38ft^3 so after the .11 displacement for a 10'' bl and 3'' aeroport that is 13'' long ( i read add an inch if using aeroports) that displaces .053, I will be right at 1.23@33hz.

  • Author

I came home from work today and caulked the joints. The top and baffle are still off because I'm going to put the port on top when it comes in and I still need to order the bl.

Edited by KHARPS

  • Author

bump, is my idea of having the port on top ok? how bout mounting locations for the tweeters in the door?

  • Author

Here are some pictures of the space I have to work with and the finished box without port/mounting hole

1001634zm7.th.jpg 1001635jn4.th.jpg 1001636xm4.th.jpg

  • Author

thanks alot......the table saw made all the difference in the world. I was getting so frustrated with the jigsaw and circular saw.

  • Author

Just ordered the d1 10'' bl with p-chamfer and universal options. Thanks, Nick, for all the help and responding to my e-mails so quickly.

Just bolt the box to the floor of the truck with a grade 8 bolt just use some gasket maker or silicone sealant to make a air tight seal where the bolt runs thru the box. this is a little overkill but its better to be safe then sorry, you wont have to worry about the box flying around if you get into a wreck.

looks good, should be decently loud too!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

  • Author
looks good, should be decently loud too!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

I hope so.....I went way overboard with the caulk but thats because a couple pieces were not straight and I wanted to make sure I had a good seal. I have a bunch of buddies that go to SIU so next time I'm down there I'm going to have to let you know so I can hear and see some of your work....should be in September or October.

cool. SIU is all of 20 minutes away, lol. though seeing and hearing some of my work might be hard to do. unless the stang is done...or i put something in either vehicle.

but still get in touch.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

  • Author

Painted black, looks pretty weak but it will be behind the seats anyways.

1001645wf1.th.jpg

I've also ordered Sundown 100.2, PG RSD 6.5'' components, Kicker PKD1 kit, (2) Knuconceptz Klarity RCAs and Karma SS speaker wire. Next paycheck will be the battery and Sundown 1500.

Edited by KHARPS

  • Author
nice car in the back ground :)

Yeah it's a monster, barely fits in the garage. Big change of pace from the '66 427 vette he had for the last few years.

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