Ok the bolts and spacers fit perfectly with the old eclipse basket, so now I'll talk to one of the guys at Fi and see what options I have.

PICS!!!! ignore the missing spacer, lowes only had 5.

Looking at the spacing in the first pic, 1" is perfect if you want to go with a 12 spoke or 4 spoke basket from Fi. It will be a good test if you can get a 6th spacer and try to mount that in a box. But with a complete spacer ring, you have a lot more surface area between the motor and the basket. That looks like the motor could shift easily. Just so I don't go down in SSA history as having the worst idea ever, I will build you a spacer ring. Let me ask around and find some material to work with. I even pulled my 4 foot tall drill press out of storage this weekend for a project I'm working on.

-Robert

It feels pretty solid, but if you want to play with your drill press be my guest

How much force can a sub create btw? I've always wanted to know that.

How much force can a sub create btw? I've always wanted to know that.

I've seen a video of an Eclipse Ti Pro 18" with a baby sitting in the cone going up and down.

But I'm worried about the motor shifting if you mount the sub with the cone vertically. It's not the force of the motor, it's the force of the car bouncing around and if the spacers can keep that 40 pound motor in place.

-Robert

Bad idea...those motors snap baskets that are screwed to the top plate....let alone some tiny 1/4 20 bolts

So the adapter plate is the better idea?

That method, Yes. It will break very easily.

Ah ok, but that's not a 3hp..or not the 3hp that i know.

Yes we can recone that, however we do not have any gap dimensions for that motor..

its a old 3HP, its the original before tc moved to the threaded gap which allowed for a threaded basket assembly.

I had seen pics of this motor used with the Eclipse style baskets but like I mentioned earlier, it is just expensive to get recone parts for those. And you are limited to 15". With a normal 3HP (see pic), there is no additional part of the top plate sticking into the basket area to limit the backward motion of the cone assembly. At least an adapter plate will give more surface area to the basket/motor junction that the spacer idea I had before. And after seeing the pictures, it was a really bad idea from an engineering standpoint (I'm not an engineer either).

I have the day off on Friday and will build sonikaccord an adapter plate just like I said I would. I wish I could do it in steel or aluminum but I don't have the ability to mill metal. It will be a material that is easily shaped by a standard router.

-Robert

Wait, I'm limited to 15 or is that just with the eclipse style basket?

Let me re-phrase that. You are limited to 15" if you use Robot Underground as that the largest basket they have that doesn't need an adapter plate. If by chance you can find an 18" Eclipse basket then it would work perfectly. But I have been looking for well over a year and have only found 18" baskets in 12 spoke (like Fi uses) or 4 spoke (like Soundsplinter uses). You can use an 18" or 21" recone from Incriminator but you will need a metal adapter plate as they have a different bolt pattern.

-Robert

Edited July 23, 200817 yr by Robert_J

any updates on the adapter plate?

up

Working on it. Between work, 100+ degree heat every afternoon and pop-up thundertorms I haven't made as much progress as I want. I did make a 1/2" thick plate yesterday and got the bolt pattern correct (took 6 different plates). Today, that 1/2" plate becomes 1" thick. Drill out the holes so they go all the way through. I should get to painting today. A few coats of sanding sealer, a few coats of primer and finally a couple of coats of automotive gloss black. You are the test subject on the paint because I want to use it on my sonosub build.

-Robert

ok, that's cool. You can pm me how much you want for it.

And one more question. How will it affect box requirements? Right now I'm looking toward a sealed 18, but I'm not sure what the recommended box volume would be.

ok, that's cool. You can pm me how much you want for it.

I don't want anything. I told you I'd do it and I will. Just do a build log so I can see it. You can PM me your full address. I'll probably mail it Tu or Wed depending on how long it takes the paint to day. And I've done 5 coats of primer with some sanding in between with 400 grit. One more coat unless the rain hits again. We are under a severe thunderstorm warning right now.....I don't know how long it will take on the regular paint. It is Rustoleum automotive paint in gloss black.

And one more question. How will it affect box requirements? Right now I'm looking toward a sealed 18, but I'm not sure what the recommended box volume would be.

It won't affect anything. Size wise, it is completely insignificant. You need to tell Scott what you want a 3HP recone for sealed use and how much amp power you will be providing. He takes care of the rest.

-Robert

It's ready. PM me your address so I can send it. I'm also including 6 1/4" #20 by 1 1/2" long stainless steel machine screws with tapered heads. These center the basket better since the tapered part of the head goes down into the the bolt hole of the basket just a hair. I would also use some Plumber's Goop between the plate and motor as well as between the basket and the plate to further keep things from shifting. Don't forget your Loc-Tite also. FIRST - dry fit everything. Nothing is worse that laying down a bead of glue and finding out that things don't match up.

Here are the pictures of the plate mounted to a TC9 motor that has the exact bolt pattern that Fi uses.

-Robert

ygpm

I have the box addressed and ready to mail. I just have to get to the post office when they are open. I work at home so getting out takes some planning. I'm going to try for tomorrow around 11am. As soon as it is in the mail, I'll update this thread.

-Robert

Mailed via USPS Priority Mail.

-Robert

It's ready. PM me your address so I can send it. I'm also including 6 1/4" #20 by 1 1/2" long stainless steel machine screws with tapered heads. These center the basket better since the tapered part of the head goes down into the the bolt hole of the basket just a hair. I would also use some Plumber's Goop between the plate and motor as well as between the basket and the plate to further keep things from shifting. Don't forget your Loc-Tite also. FIRST - dry fit everything. Nothing is worse that laying down a bead of glue and finding out that things don't match up.

Here are the pictures of the plate mounted to a TC9 motor that has the exact bolt pattern that Fi uses.

-Robert

very nice man

very nice man

Thank you. I wanted to use steel or aluminum but I don't have a milling machine and the price of a 1" thick piece of aluminum large enough for this was over $100. A waterproof material like Corian would have worked better since it is impervious to the elements and can still be milled with standard woodworking tools. But that would have blown my budget (which was zero). I used this as practice for a few other projects I'm working on so the little bit of money I did spend translated in to knowledge. It really did take 6 tries to get the bolt pattern correct. Once I got the center to center spaceing at 5", I had to get them properly spaced at 60 degrees. I ended up ruining a pair of elementary protractors doing this. What happened to the accurate, hard plastic ones I used last century? I also noticed that they compasses are now plastic and don't have a sharp point. How are you going to stab someone?

Painting was also a learning experience. There are 5 coats of laquor sanding sealer, 4 coats of primer (2 high build up, 2 regular) and 3 coats of automotive high gloss. There was a little sanding in between coats. I'm going to use what I learned on this to clone a set of SVS subs.

-Robert

Edited August 7, 200817 yr by Robert_J

lol @ the compass.

This will be put to good use. thx