I would do 1/0...4 gauge isn't enough for a 1500 and a front stage amp.

If you can't afford a real amp new, buy a real amp used. No reason to ever look at the Hifo stuff.

I'd also be really, really skeptical of an $85 box.

very true.... there is a HUGE diffrence between a box with a slot in it or a holes.... and a tuned box made for YOUR sub.

and a box has alot to do with sound imo.

and try looking at the sae 1000.... its a great amp

they are well built boxes, guy does car audio for a living, Redmonds of Saginaw,MI

It is good you are buying a new amp. But please, remember, that no matter what people tell you.... The more power you have the more likely you are to blow a sub. That Lanzar can probably make 500 watts, fully clipped, down-hill with a tailwind... I have no idea what the RMS is on those subs, but if it is more than 500, you would have a real, real tough time blowing them with a Vibe 250. Now, with a 1500 watt class D, you can turn them into junk real quick, just be judicious with your volume control. I am not trying to say you will be irresponsible, I think this just needs to be pointed out after reading this thread.

and a box has alot to do with sound imo.

Yup, it has everything to do with the sound....

and a box has alot to do with sound imo.

Yup, it has everything to do with the sound....

x1000

The box is the key, but being smart about what you have is also. I have put a 1000w amp on a sub that shouldn't have more than 150w running to it with no problems, but I know what I am doing and listen for stress 100% of the time when it is playing. If you aren't capable of that you can surely hurt your gear quick.

It is good you are buying a new amp. But please, remember, that no matter what people tell you.... The more power you have the more likely you are to blow a sub. That Lanzar can probably make 500 watts, fully clipped, down-hill with a tailwind... I have no idea what the RMS is on those subs, but if it is more than 500, you would have a real, real tough time blowing them with a Vibe 250. Now, with a 1500 watt class D, you can turn them into junk real quick, just be judicious with your volume control. I am not trying to say you will be irresponsible, I think this just needs to be pointed out after reading this thread.

After this, I'll repeat what I said earlier. Just keep the amp you have. Save your money. Build the box a little larger to make up for some efficiency since you only have maybe 500 real watts. No reason to go broke when it's not really necessary. The sub will sound absolutely fine on 500 watts, if that's all it is, and it will be louder than the sub you had. I guess I don't see the point in scrounging through the couch cushions to find another $1.29 when a bigger amp will get you 2 db or something, when you aren't going to compete.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=19640&hl=

this is a STEAL>

needed to get this topic going again.

I had Chris help me with a setup a while back and it turned out to be almost 1200 dollars easily. I really do not need/want to spend that much, but i do want the loudness and quality of the BL. I see the sundown 1500d, but it is still just costly for me.

Why do I need to run 1/0 gauge wiring anyways, doesn't the amp only accept 4 gauge. I just don't understand the need for a distribution block for one amp right? Sorry if this sounds newb. Just haven't worked with high powered setups before. I was thinking of the BL 15" with the Flatwind coil on the Hifonics 1208d, but everyone cares less about the hifonics. Just need more input on this.

And what about the Sundown 1000. Does that put out 1000 maximum right?

then do it.. so do whatcha want/need to...

if you go with the hifonics your talking about. it takes a 4 gauge....

if your gonna do a hifonics try to find a BXi 2008D its a lil better IMO for your needs.

but there is no subsitute for quality.

And what about the Sundown 1000. Does that put out 1000 maximum right?

yes thats true it does... but it sounds like you will most likly crank that up and clip that chit.....

heres the thing man.. you want a great sound but you dont wanna pay for it......

sundown is cheap brother..... real cheap if you look at its compation.. and matched with the best CS on the planet you cant get any better.

i just am throwing my idea around of which amp to get at the moment really.

I am set on getting the BL, i really want that power. It is just hard for me to spend that much, but I understand why you say go with sundown, it will last me. I am just 17 and work minimum wage, but i still do want to go about this. I will look more into the sundown 1500d. Is that a 4 gauge 2 or 0 receptor?

i just am throwing my idea around of which amp to get at the moment really.

I am set on getting the BL, i really want that power. It is just hard for me to spend that much, but I understand why you say go with sundown, it will last me. I am just 17 and work minimum wage, but i still do want to go about this. I will look more into the sundown 1500d. Is that a 4 gauge 2 or 0 receptor?

saz 1500d is a 0 gauge input.....

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...mp;#entry413313

my boy sec is selling his 1500d's for a steal this is the second deal on a 1500D i have showed you. carpe diem buddy.

o yeah 699 retail...

so correct me if wrong, I DO need 0 gauge for that amp right?

And one run of 0 to positive, and a short section for the ground to chassis. Where abouts did you run you + wire, being that it most likely will not fit in the plastic near the door jambs.

oh and i can't get the amp/sub combo right now, I am waiting till spring or summer yet. I have some tires to pay for and about 1k to pay for on my car yet, then I should be set for saving up.

u should run a 0 gauge,+..... and then run a 0 gauge -......to the steal in the rear of your car...

what kinda car is it?

you need to get the big three out of the way for now dig it.

you can be working on stuff while you save up... and dont think that you must buy some over priced stinger amp kit for 2 bills.... nah nah.. just buy a 20 foot run of + 0 gauge.. i dont know you but you prolly have a corolla or somthing.. so you will use 14 foot or so on your+... then you will have all that left over wire.. use it for the ground.. and on the big three.

me... well im kinda crazy weird... i run mine under the car.... then i drill a whole in the back and up she comes... seal your hole up and your done.... i like to run the wire inside of pvc for protection. but your dont have too. just make sure its fused in the front and the back.

but you can also take out all your seats.. and the run the wire down the middle of the car...

well it is actually about the size of a corolla lol.

It is a 2000 Cavalier Sedan. And with that - wire, wouldn't it come off the amp and just use about 4 feet, and ground that to some clean sheet metal? I would need to run it inside of my car being that I live in Michigan and winters can get pretty harsh up here. I am not about to go drill some holes in my car either, as you probably can understand.

I will try to get my big 3 done before winter hits.

well it is actually about the size of a corolla lol.

It is a 2000 Cavalier Sedan. And with that - wire, wouldn't it come off the amp and just use about 4 feet, and ground that to some clean sheet metal? I would need to run it inside of my car being that I live in Michigan and winters can get pretty harsh up here. I am not about to go drill some holes in my car either, as you probably can understand.

I will try to get my big 3 done before winter hits.

well... normaly you wanna go down to the frame of your car and get a good ground off it... but your in case...... i donno im from the south....

but damn a caviler does not have a steal frame. but the seats are usualy bolted into a very strong point... i would prolly go ofrf a seatbelt mount bolt.. just make sure the paint is wire brushed or grinded away.. and then paint it so it wont rust.

here are some shitty pics of mine.

I know what ya meant, by grounding it to the frame. Most people that have put systems into a cavalier, use a ring terminal with a self taping screw and a locknut in the spare tire well area. But my current amp is ground to my seatbelt bolt.

Figure order 25ft or 30? Thats ground/power/big 3. Think that would be enough 1/0 gauge?

I know what ya meant, by grounding it to the frame. Most people that have put systems into a cavalier, use a ring terminal with a self taping screw and a locknut in the spare tire well area. But my current amp is ground to my seatbelt bolt.

Figure order 25ft or 30? Thats ground/power/big 3. Think that would be enough 1/0 gauge?

yeah that will be plenty.....

and groundin to sheet metal or a fender well may work for a sony 1000 watt.. but not a saz 1500d....

here are some deals i seen in just a few pages... look more ...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/0-Gauge-Amp...sspagenameZWDVW

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-Gauge-Power-Wire-2...1QQcmdZViewItem

welding wire too..... cheaper.

alright so i am ordering 1/0 from welding supply. Do I need any fuses for the big 3? I am just going to order enough for the big 3 right now. How does 15 ft sound? or less

alright so i am ordering 1/0 from welding supply. Do I need any fuses for the big 3? I am just going to order enough for the big 3 right now. How does 15 ft sound? or less

for the big three you will need to look at your car and guess.

imo you should need more more then 6 feet... to do the big three only. but you will have to look at your car.

well, it is just a cavalier, so take into factor that it is a narrow car and small engine bay also. So i might just order 12-15 ft.