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  • j-roadtatts
    j-roadtatts

  • Chill- Lemme break it down as simple as I can on some of us here. The IHoP is like a big dysfunctional family. -M5 would be the uncle everyone respects and takes advice from. We may not like how he p

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you're in physics and you can understand your teacher? must be nice

tonight, once i'm sauced, i think i'll try to make it to 1k....see if i can make it to 1k before i pass out, sounds like a game

lol just got done with another video. Still crappy imho but it has sound this time.

On another good note I have found the rims of choice for me, same for the tires tooo.

I'm pretty sure I can fit the 39.5" Iroks I think it may be a little toooo tall for the judges in the comp lanes. May have to sell these 39.5s and get the 36s.

Here are the wheels.

20x10 Black KMC XD Rockstar

rockstarXD2_c.jpg

775RockStarBlk_c.jpg

I'm already deciding on a new setup for next year also in MECA.

1 18" MT with around 8K to it. Probably do 4K for daily and 8K for burps.

This year though I think I'm gona see how I do with the Orion 1000 on it and if its not loud enough I think I may upgrade to say a 1500 or 1800 watt amp.

whats with this whole ceaodaoisdjf compliant rating stuff?  I've heard good and bad about it, apprently it would cause most of the higher end brands to be listed even higher in wattage.  My orion 8002's box says the compliant rating is 350W x 2ch (orion states 200 x 2)  can it really bump it that much?  This leads me to beleive it's dumber than i've heard.  (the ratings, not the amp)

It's supposed to be a standard in the elctronics community for rating amplifiers. They use a set voltage and frequency, but nobody really knows the specifics. They have to meet the advertised power is all at whatever the rating standards are. If they meet or exceed it, they qualify, if not, they don't. You don't have to change the rating based HOW the amplfier rates. If it's rated for 50WPC, but does 150WPC, they can still rate it at 50.

And the people talking about underdrive pullies, I'm so-so on them. I've never seen any instances of overheating with them, but I have seen charging problems at idle. The manufacturers actually built in atolerance with the accessories. Most water pumps will actually flow more than they need to provide adequate cooling and the like with power steering pumps and alts. They build this in as an error on the cautious side. Most alternators will generally put out 15-20% more current than they are rated at, most water pumps flow 15% more than the engine needs, and same for power steering pumps.

i figure there is no reason to under drive anything. Just use electric versions.

Electric water pump and such.

i figure there is no reason to under drive anything. Just use electric versions.

Electric water pump and such.

That's all good if your electrical system can handle it and if it will actually work. Take my Cobra for example. I can get an electric water pump for my car, but it would be for tack use only. Using it, I would have no other way to run my other accessories with the belt. Not feasible on a street car.

FYI, it takes about 1hp to make 10 amps of current from your alt. That's 20hp for 200 amps. That's a big chunk of power right there.

yea that is true. I wasn't looking at it from a street/strip point of view. Just at a regular view.

i figure there is no reason to under drive anything. Just use electric versions.

Electric water pump and such.

That's all good if your electrical system can handle it and if it will actually work. Take my Cobra for example. I can get an electric water pump for my car, but it would be for tack use only. Using it, I would have no other way to run my other accessories with the belt. Not feasible on a street car.

FYI, it takes about 1hp to make 10 amps of current from your alt. That's 20hp for 200 amps. That's a big chunk of power right there.

wow, alts must be horrifically inefficient then

1 hp = 760 watts

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