If you have a noise floor problem/engine whine with your system and it's still bugging you I would DEFINATELY give this TRU SSLD6 piece a try. I know Don & Manny are quite satisfied with the results to say the least.

link:

http://www.trutechnology.com/product.....;/ssld6_08.html

can yal explain this thing for me

thanks

scratch that link try this one

http://www.trutechnology.com/products/line...r/ssld6_08.html

none of you arbitrarily have any knowledge about iron removal in a house? I want to be rid of Culligan, but have really hard water and a ton of iron. Typically units inject an oxygen or chemical to oxidize the iron/manganese so it is easy to filter out. Not sure if that is enough for me, and thought with the odd set of knowledge here I'd ask.

I'm not sure if it's the same problem that you have, but we had really hard water at my parents' house. We used a salt-based water softener for years, and then switched to an activated charcoal filter (I think) a few years ago.

I've got 22 grains of hardness as well, but I am mostly concerned with the iron as it basically triples your effective hardness. I don't think your definition of hard water and what we have are in the same ballpark. Charcoal filters typically remove organics and chlorine, but for hardness you need a salt based device (or so I think).

For 4x the price you can get an electrolytic hydrolysis device that does a better job of oxidizing, but I don't like the price or the fact that putting an anode/cathode setup in any nasty water solution just can't be good for a long time.

I think there might be an anode/cathode system at their place too. I know there's copper pieces in the pipe that are charged; they get changed every year or 2.

I don't know anything about getting iron out of your water, but I do know how to use google.

Does this answer any of your questions?

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ironinwater

I know how to google as well Thanks for googling for me. I should have finished the question which is really what type to get. The sales guys for all of these companies are complete sleazebags and getting real information out of them is pretty much not possible. To top it off, I have seen bids for the same equipment that "i need" that vary from $3k to $18k. :eek:

More curious as to the difference between chemical pumps, oxygenators, and electrolytic types for both reliability and true effectiveness. My iron content is on the border of different ones and of course I'd hate to regularly have to add chemical.

I'll ask 'em about the details next time we talk.

If you have a noise floor problem/engine whine with your system and it's still bugging you I would DEFINATELY give this TRU SSLD6 piece a try. I know Don & Manny are quite satisfied with the results to say the least.

link:

http://www.trutechnology.com/product.....;/ssld6_08.html

can yal explain this thing for me

thanks

scratch that link try this one

http://www.trutechnology.com/products/line...r/ssld6_08.html

Basically a pre-amplifer. Boosts your outputs allowing lower gain on your amps. If everything is right in your install it is completely unecessary.

For 4x the price you can get an electrolytic hydrolysis device that does a better job of oxidizing, but I don't like the price or the fact that putting an anode/cathode setup in any nasty water solution just can't be good for a long time.

I think there might be an anode/cathode system at their place too. I know there's copper pieces in the pipe that are charged; they get changed every year or 2.

No worries & no real need. I was really just curious if for some abstract reason someone on here really knew the effectiveness of different types. I can't find any water treatment forums, lol.

Actually I ahven't looked for forums, just information.

*goes to look

there are forums for everything

<--loves Koko Taylor's voice

If you have a noise floor problem/engine whine with your system and it's still bugging you I would DEFINATELY give this TRU SSLD6 piece a try. I know Don & Manny are quite satisfied with the results to say the least.

link:

http://www.trutechnology.com/product.....;/ssld6_08.html

can yal explain this thing for me

thanks

scratch that link try this one

http://www.trutechnology.com/products/line...r/ssld6_08.html

Basically a pre-amplifer. Boosts your outputs allowing lower gain on your amps. If everything is right in your install it is completely unecessary.

alrighty

that was on the means of what mk was tellin me

if u have a proper install u shouldnt have this problem.

just interested in what the hell they were talkin about

there are forums for everything

some / that most suck

whine Top^

this would be an amazing deal if it were a real one...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/609312511.html

this would be an amazing deal if it were a real one...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/609312511.html

real one?

this would be an amazing deal if it were a real one...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/609312511.html

real one?

a real '68 Z-28

I would imagine a real one in that condition would go for 2 - 3 times that price

oh

i got ya on that

For 4x the price you can get an electrolytic hydrolysis device that does a better job of oxidizing, but I don't like the price or the fact that putting an anode/cathode setup in any nasty water solution just can't be good for a long time.

I think there might be an anode/cathode system at their place too. I know there's copper pieces in the pipe that are charged; they get changed every year or 2.

No worries & no real need. I was really just curious if for some abstract reason someone on here really knew the effectiveness of different types. I can't find any water treatment forums, lol.

Go to your local Sears. They offer little tubes for you to fill with your water. They'll do an analysis and set you up with what you need.

My parents have the same problem at their house and it was simply offset with a special salt designed for iron removal. My cousin's husband runs a business for water softeners and he really knows his shit, so everything he's done for them has always worked well.

Also, I found out the other day, my car has a factory block heater.(I think)

I was looking and found a 120v plug in. Thats the only thing I can really figure.

Check the freeze plugs, and you never said what your problem was.

Do you really want me to explain exactly what is wrong with my car?

That's why I asked. I happen to know a thing or two about Mustangs.

First off it has a hanging idle problem. Alot of explaining here, things I've tried and its not worked.

Left HEGO(o2) sensor runs lean, only at highway speeds.

some other sensor is bad. Coolant temp. Don't know the exact name tho.

and WTF is the deal with Jntar getting me unbanned from ca.com?

Don't talk about that place here!

Also, I found out the other day, my car has a factory block heater.(I think)

I was looking and found a 120v plug in. Thats the only thing I can really figure.

Check the freeze plugs, and you never said what your problem was.

Do you really want me to explain exactly what is wrong with my car?

That's why I asked. I happen to know a thing or two about Mustangs.

First off it has a hanging idle problem. Alot of explaining here, things I've tried and its not worked.

Left HEGO(o2) sensor runs lean, only at highway speeds.

some other sensor is bad. Coolant temp. Don't know the exact name tho.

Year and model please.

thanks Ryan.

Also, I found out the other day, my car has a factory block heater.(I think)

I was looking and found a 120v plug in. Thats the only thing I can really figure.

Check the freeze plugs, and you never said what your problem was.

Do you really want me to explain exactly what is wrong with my car?

That's why I asked. I happen to know a thing or two about Mustangs.

First off it has a hanging idle problem. Alot of explaining here, things I've tried and its not worked.

Left HEGO(o2) sensor runs lean, only at highway speeds.

some other sensor is bad. Coolant temp. Don't know the exact name tho.

Year and model please.

1994. GT.

thanks Ryan.

What did I do?