hello everyone,

I recently change all my system and after the installation i get a lot of engine noise and alternator noise.

the install was like follows:

Alternator: a 250 amp Ford alternator modified to use a voltage regulator, so it generates from 10.5 to 18 volts.

Power wire: upgrade to 0 gauge from alternator to main battery, to second battery, to capacitor, to distribution block.

Ground wire: upgrade to 0 gauge from alternator to engine, to chasis, to battery, to second battery, to capacitor, to distribution block.

Amplifiers: 1 Memphis st-1600d to subs (2 10"Ascendant Audio)

1 Autotek 500s to mids (4 5.25" Crossfire)

1 Pioneer Gm6300 to Highs (2 Crossfire - 2 Lanzar Opti)

Sound Processors: Audiocontrol LC7 to convert the signal from factory head unit

Lanzar optix 10 Crossover

All remote signal came from a switch wich it's feed from the distribution blocks.

along all this installation i ran oxigen free rca wires.

when i turn on the engine i hear a whine noise and when i trun on the lights i hear a disgustin alternator noise.

can anyone help me find out what or where did i go wrong, cause i've been strugling with this for the last 4 weeks and still the same.

I'll appreciate it.

Do you have an Ipod or something similar? Pull the LOC out, and try another source...

You have all that equipment hooked to a factory radio???

Motor noise can be caused by alot of things...i do mean alot....People end up pulling there hair out trying to find the problem....

-bad rca jacks tend to be the most common...

-rca jacks that have been ran arcoss the top of a gas tank that has a electric fuel pump...

-bad grounds.....

-bad spark plug wires believe it or not...can cause feedback to come through the power wires.....

-bad radio.....

-the converter used on a factory radio isnt grounded properly....

-cold solder joints on rca input jacks....

-and im sure ive missed a few....

Id start with the least expensive fix and go from there.......

i would do as jim j states first...

also i did no read any grounds upgreaded in there!

and if your using a line converter be sure its grounded.

yes jim i do have ana ipod conected, i'm going to try your your way.

4runner i use the audiocontrollc7 as a signal processor between the radio and the amps, and all edquipments are grounded to the negative that came from the battery, about the head unit, i have to wait because...$$$$$.... it's really hard to make, and i can't afford a new head unit.

bigj...my friend i answer your last pm, what's up................i do did the upgrade on the wiring from the engine to the bat, to the chasis and the alternator, or you mean replace all the ground points between the engine and the chasis?.......that's a little though and you know what i mean with this cars.

so guys i'm going to aply all your recommendations and post the results, but i need to know if the way i ground the equipmets it's the right way.

I almost forgot that the current power to the system is 15.3v, thru the voltage regulator of the alternator, it is like that cause I'm a car service driver and we use a trunk mounted 2way radio wich uses this power to transmit at 225 watts of power( the average is 65 used by goverment agencies) so you can have an idea.

thanks a lot.

Edited October 22, 200816 yr by joselmar

Good luck my friend i hope you can hunt down the problem.....

this are some pictures of everything except the amps that are located behind the sub enclosure.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2979087/2

clean install but your asking for trouble not running a sealed cell in that trunk!

i like the tweeter install how does it sound with that location?

The #1 cause of engine noise is a ground differential between equipment in your signal chain.

What this means is, if there is a difference in voltage potential, it will try and equalize through the signal cabling. This will cause all of the AC present from the alternator (every single alt puts out some AC, all the time) to be passed where it can't be filtered since it is in the audible range (engine RPM). The only way to cure this to equalize the ground potential between equipment.

The only reason noise filters/isolators work sometimes is because either they A, disrupt the path the DC ground potential path, or B filter every last bit of AC component from the DC. Both of these means are inferior because they limit system bandwidth and current delivery.

Unless your equipment is broken, you will not have engine noise if everything is at a common ground potential AND excess EMI is not being induced on your low level signal cabling, as the latter is hardly ever the case, even with bad rectifiers in your alt and crappy spark plug wires.

clean install but your asking for trouble not running a sealed cell in that trunk!

i like the tweeter install how does it sound with that location?

Hey bigj, those pictures are to show the install, they don't show the problems.........by the way I like your blue eyes now!!

about the tweeters, they sound extreamely killers I have to low the gains on everything that have todo with them, cause i couldn't stand it, besides you can angle the soundwave better from this position.

so what do you think about my problem.

The #1 cause of engine noise is a ground differential between equipment in your signal chain.

What this means is, if there is a difference in voltage potential, it will try and equalize through the signal cabling. This will cause all of the AC present from the alternator (every single alt puts out some AC, all the time) to be passed where it can't be filtered since it is in the audible range (engine RPM). The only way to cure this to equalize the ground potential between equipment.

The only reason noise filters/isolators work sometimes is because either they A, disrupt the path the DC ground potential path, or B filter every last bit of AC component from the DC. Both of these means are inferior because they limit system bandwidth and current delivery.

Unless your equipment is broken, you will not have engine noise if everything is at a common ground potential AND excess EMI is not being induced on your low level signal cabling, as the latter is hardly ever the case, even with bad rectifiers in your alt and crappy spark plug wires.

as I can understand, if all equipments are connected to the same ground point, there shouldn't be any problems?...if that's the case, all equipments are connected to the same ground point (ground distribution block, feeded from the negative of the battery), you think that's the right way?

maybe your accessory belt was mal adjusted when you installed the new alternator.they have a tendancy to screech when they are slipping on the pulleys. theres an actual tool and spec to adjust the belt on, you can't just slap it on. if its too losse your accessies wont be working well and if its too tight your putting too much strain on them so you might want to get that checked...

also if you have bad ass speakers that like the 15 000hz range, your knock sensor might pick up the sound and act as if the car is pinging and make your engine go whack. its a very rare case but it does happen...

Edited October 23, 200816 yr by Triple_P

maybe your accessory belt was mal adjusted when you installed the new alternator.they have a tendancy to screech when they are slipping on the pulleys.

I look for this possibility already, but this vehicle has an automatic tensor for adjustment, so there's no chance to make mistakes on this, as they use a single belt.

maybe your accessory belt was mal adjusted when you installed the new alternator.they have a tendancy to screech when they are slipping on the pulleys.

I look for this possibility already, but this vehicle has an automatic tensor for adjustment, so there's no chance to make mistakes on this, as they use a single belt.

maybe your alternator isnt totally identical to your stock one your supposed to have on your car and its self adjusting itself to the wrong setting. just throwing ideas up off the top of my head. or maybe your alt is just going bonkers...

all equipments are connected to the same ground point (ground distribution block, feeded from the negative of the battery), you think that's the right way?

There is a (decent gauge) wire from EVERY piece of gear in your car connecting the ground to only one spot in the car? I mean your head unit, signal processing, amps, everything... Is this the case?

all equipments are connected to the same ground point (ground distribution block, feeded from the negative of the battery), you think that's the right way?

There is a (decent gauge) wire from EVERY piece of gear in your car connecting the ground to only one spot in the car? I mean your head unit, signal processing, amps, everything... Is this the case?

no. it vary for example amps have 4g, head unit is the factory g, signal processing are 14g, and the feed for the distribution block is 0g.

no. it vary for example amps have 4g, head unit is the factory g, signal processing are 14g, and the feed for the distribution block is 0g.

I still think you are missing what I am saying. If your deck has factory ground, then everything is NOT terminated to the same place.

Herein often lies the problem......

You have no idea how that factory ground is set up.

Seriously, I mean each peice of equipment connected at the same ground potential. This means a wire that goes from each component to one central ground location in the vehicle, your distro sounds like agood start.

Every single system I have installed in the last 4-5 years gets a 8 awg run for the deck ground to the central point. I have had systems with 10+ pieces of gear in the signal chain with "0" engine noise issues, all the time, every time.....

Even the cheapest, POS equipment (Pyramid, Legacy, Dual) will never have engine noise issues if you follow these basic guidlines.... I know because I have literally installed a ton of it over the years for cheap-asses....