I'm going to be running a SAZ-1500d at 1 ohm on a 15" FI BL.

Question is, i have the big 3 done in 0 gauge and a optima red top in a scion xb with i believe a 80 amp alt (stock).

will i have any problems?

I plan to get a 200 amp alt and an extra battery but would like to wait if my electrical can handle it.

thanks,

Justin

You could get by, but 'getting by', wouldnt be the greatest idea. You could hook it up and run with it, with your current electric, but you'll be dipping into low voltage on bass notes at idle. If I were you I would:

(A): Add a back battery, HC2000, 1400, Powermaster, Deka, etc.

(B): Get a new alternator

I would choose 'B', just to get the alternator and get it out the way for future builds. 'A' would work just as fine, but when you start adding batteries you start adding weight. The less weight the better. Either one is fine for just 1500rms.

Crap, looks like i gotta dip a little further into my tax return, hahaha

add another 300$ just for some Bass, hahaha wish i wasn't so addicted to this stuff.

I google'd your car for some HO alternators and it isnt pretty. I seen a 165a on ebay for almost 350. Try mechman, or somewhere and get a quote. If not buy the battery.

the problem is if i get another battery i dont want to strain my stock alt to much charging two batteries.

yea its around 400

ill get rates for 200 amp alts

iraggi 399$

excessive amperage 375$ (went with them before but wasnt to happy)

dc power eng (calling for quote)

Mechman (calling for quote)

Edited March 3, 200916 yr by BoomBoxB

well it depends if you run around pounding your stuff all the time or not...if you drive with it at lower/mid levels, it should be fine, cause the amp wont be drawing a lot of current all the time and the alt wont have to work to charge your batt(s). if you DO slam your stuff all the time, the alt and/or batts would be a good solution.

just for reference - as of now, i dont have my rear batt in, and i can get to the mid-high 130's range w/ my 12" bl and saz3000d @ 1ohm and not pop a 50a fuse...(just to give an example of lower vol. listening not drawing a lot of amperage)

just got off the phone with DC power Eng, and they told me 180 amp is 429$ and 220 is 509$

but the 180 idles at a higher amp than the 220

has anyone dealt with them? is it worth the extra cash?

Mechman 250 amp for 499$ 150 amps at idle.

breakin bank

Edited March 3, 200916 yr by BoomBoxB

Id go with the mechman should hold the voltage pretty steady full tilt at Idle and you will have plenty of room for future plans

Id go with the mechman should hold the voltage pretty steady full tilt at Idle and you will have plenty of room for future plans

x2

I think since you have a newer car u should be fine. upgrade the big 3 and thats all. I have a 15" SSD on 1k power and i have 0 gauge for big three and 4 gauge for all power. note that i have a 14 year old car with the stock alternator still in it and a normal about 1 year old battery i never drop below 14volts. i know you have about another 500 rms into your system but if its the same case for me i dont think you have to go that crazy into buying a new alt and trunk battery.

One way to save a few bucks is to have your current stock alternator rewound. Could pick up 35 amps or so.

If you are on a budget and want a battery, go to walmart and buy the biggest one they have. They have some that are over 1000CCA for around $100. You can take it back as many times as you want also, LOL!...

And honestly, most people could never tell the difference in performance vs a $2-300 "car audio" battery.... They are just big and weigh a ton, that is the biggest downside I've found......

it would be a bad idea if i tried to run another battery with the stock alt tho right?

i drive this thing all over the place i don't want to get stranded without an alternator.

Well i got it in, and my lights dim like crazy at high volumes... looks like its time for a new alt! yay

ive emailed/called mechman a couple times to order this and they didn't answer, is this a sign that i should not order from them?

naw mechman's legit, they might be busy building alts, or away from the shop, try again.

im actually in the same situation as you, i have an older car, and prob will get no more than 5 years out of it, and I dont think its going to be worth the money to get a new alt, im going to be running a saz 1500, i think what 160 amps? and my other amp pulls 50 amps, so thats like 210 amps. Im not going to spend $400-500 US (i live in Canada) for that kind of stuff. I was originally going to get a yellowtop my bud was seeln, but he sold it faster than I thought, so im looking at the Deka Intimidator, im goina search around here for a few batteries, but like HondaAcoordman said, and he knows wtf hes talking about, biggest CCA batt im going to look around and see if I can find a cheap but dece battery.

Every1 I talk to tells me to upgrade alt, but i talkd to an installer at a reputable shop and he said u could basically make anytn work without upgrading alt.

If your only running a single 1500d at 1 ohm you should be fine with the stock alt and the red top. I run 2 1500d's at .5 ohms off of a stock alt, a D3100, and a Deka G34. I still have some light dim cause I don't have a ho alt, but the amps get all the power that they need and then some. If your looking for an affordable alt from a good source go to SMD.com and pm Db Linc Designs. They do high output alts for a very reasonable price. I believe that they will beat most competitors prices. The guy you want to talk to is Jake and his name on the forum is Db Linc Pres. If you want I can give you the number to his shop.

i would be worried to charge another battery off of the stock 80/90 amp alt, so i just ordered a 250 amp alt from mechman this morning, should see it next week, im sure it will take care of my problems! plus i have more headroom for a bigger badder system.

i ran my saz 1500d in my corolla on a 80 amp alt for the 2 months the system was in my car and my electrical held up great. my battery voltage was starting to dip slowly when cranking the system up near to its max but it was still enough to make my hair sway. by the end of the summer my battery was not able to take the abuse anymore and my whole car electrical would dim totally off and totally on with every beat coming from the sub and the car would almost stall. after i took my system out to bring the car back to stock i performed a battery load test with a load tester machine and also an alternator test. my alternator was running like new even thought the car is more than 10 years old (charging at 14.8 volts) and the battery could only take the load at 5.6 volts!(battery is considered scrap at 9 volts). so basically your alternator should hold for a couple years but expect your battery to go dead in a month or so unless you have a deep cycle battery.

oh ok, yeah i have fairly new red top, and my lights would dim a little with volume at mid range, and dim real bad at loud volumes... this alt will take care of all my problems, plus i plan on running a sax-100.4 maybe an extra battery if i have to. im not going to get stuck on the side of the road.

got my 250 amp mechman alt yesterday and its beefy as hell, ordered it wednesday last week got it Tuesday, thats service

awesome! any pics?

damn a pic request of an alt? maybe ill get one when i get home.

Don't mean to jack this thread or anything but what if you put a smaller pulley on you're alt will that do anything or no? I got a 04 Stang I think it has a 105 amp alt i'm not sure, I just swapped my battery for a Optima Yellowtop My lights were dimming like crazy before off my JBL 14001 and Wal Mark Sony 4 Ch, But I haven't had my system hooked up since putting in the yellowtop. I haven't done the big 3 yet, got 0 gauge going to the back off the battery. Does anyone know where the chassis ground is in a mustang, or can you just run it anywhere on the chassis?