hey all,

i'm not sure if this is in the right forum or not so if it's not please move it.

i am looking into buy new subs and changing enclosures. i know there are some on this site who bulid their own enclosures. i don't want anything custom and crazy just something that will do the job and give me good sound quality.

are there any how to's on making your own enclosure and also how to tune them? i've heard that tuning the enclosure is important but i don't know anything about this. i've seen them done on a tv show called unique whips and the guy finishes them in about 30 minutes. is it really this simple?

any help would be very helpful.

Jeremy

no, it's not that simple..."edited for time"..lol..

tuning, well, there are several tutorials that will help..and ryan has a formula he like to use. it's all about net volume and port size to achieve the tuning u want. also, in general, the higher the tuning, the louder the setup. the lower the tuning the better the sq. this isn't written in stone though...just in general..lol

building...measure twice..then measure twice more..and then when ur ready to cut..measure again to be sure!! it's best to have a plan of action..and a set of plans. layout everything on ur wood, where the port is going, where ur going to be shooting screws/brads...a lil more time consuming, but worth it.

as to the screws/brads...no less then 2" apart..any closer and u rick spliting the wood. no more then probaly 8" apart. and they aren't the strength..the wood glue is. make sure u use a quality glue (i like titebond II premium) predrill/countersink all screw holes.

that's it in a nutshell. i'm leaving out some of the stuff about tuning due to the fact there are others that can explain it better then i....but this should help get ya going

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

www.bcae1.com (or .net, not sure) has some good stuff including calculators and a bunch of info on pretty muc everything car audio.....

if you need an enclsore plan drop me an E-mail at [email protected] with the driver(s) you are using, maximum dimentions (Depth, With, and Height), and desired results. i design for donations. though not required they are appreciated due tothe fact that it does take time and some algebra to design enclsores.

ANeonRider,mrray make boxes, theirs more in these forums but i can think right now, too stressed, but their all god guys and can do a good job never the less.

nick, jamie, and I make boxes also

we charge per size and number or subs, I am currently building a box for a new Stereo Integrity D2

shoooo denim

Jeremy....

good name

I make boxes, but I am not atm capable of making it a business of any sort. Designs yes, but build, no.

Is there anyone in the Southeast that builds boxes. I would try myself since I have time on my hand but do have the tools to cut the wood

All you need is a jig saw, drill and a saw

Home depot/Lowes can cut the wood for you.

Just buy the materials and then return them, thats what ill do.

I am in baltimore, and Jamie is in lousiana

I also can make enclosures-----pretty good ones too---if I do say so myself.

mind you that a circular saw is good but a table saw is better, more accurate, and straighter cuts...

i beg to differ

Great accuracy can be achieved with a CS. I do it all the time now that my table is broke. No way in hell I'm paying $85 for a set of brushes either!

If you can hack it, get a table saw. If not, get a good CS, a couple good blades, and a STRAIGHT EDGE! OH yeah, clamps are your friend.

Based on my experience, a properly set-up table saw will give the straightest cuts. Howeer, i'd highly reccomend you slice up your 4x8 sheet with the CS before you start goofing with your table saw. cutting a whole sheet of 3/4" MDF in half with a table saw is a joke. there is something to be said for the flexibility of a CS. If its all you have, you can get most jobs done pretty easily. x2 on the clamps as well.

I think supa has just had some bad experience with my table saw in the past. I think he's been using some old school 8" Skilsaw, and lately the stuff has been (surprisingly) coming out pretty decently. I guess we'll see what my next box looks like once I get those RL-Ps.

I use a CS, no problems being straight when you use a straight edge.

$45 CS off ebay, $20 clamps and a 2x4 vs a $180 table saw that only vuts up to 20". I'll take the CS

I think supa has just had some bad experience with my table saw in the past. I think he's been using some old  school 8" Skilsaw, and lately the stuff has been (surprisingly) coming out pretty decently. I guess we'll see what my next box looks like once I get those RL-Ps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

And by old school hea means old school. The thing is from the 60's or something

It was only $150.00. Not like you paid for it anyway

Andy and I use a table saw and mitre saw

Building an extra table/platform for a table saw will be the best thing you've ever done in your workshop for handling large panels...a few 2x4's, rolllers and screws, and you can easily handle a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" MDF yourself in the shop...

i didnt say you couldnt cut straight with a CS but it is easier with a table saw. BTW Carbide tipped blades have shown the best results for me when cutting MDF...

But w/e, i have a table saw and a circular saw at my disposal along with a Jig saw, Saw Zaw, 2 drills, and if i want to drive out to my grandpa's whot a plainter and a router along with a stationary sander.... oh and a band saw, and a drill press...

oh and more clamps than any one home depot....