Posted April 26, 200520 yr Ok, I'd like to know something..I read a recommendation of using a 25in^2 port tuned to 34hz.So I understand how to figure out the port size, what is meant by "tune to 34hz"? Or is that a statement, that a 25in^2 port will be tuned to 34hz.?
April 26, 200520 yr You can tune to any desired HZ.Usually 17-25 is SQ28-35 SQL38+ is SPLLower the tuning, the quieter the bass but it will sound cleaner (SQL)
April 26, 200520 yr Author ok, but if a recommended port size si 25in^2, then wouldn't that be a specific tuned length? So, I would need to decide at what hz I want it 'tuned' and then that will determine port size?
April 26, 200520 yr You can tune to any desired HZ.Usually 17-25 is SQ28-35 SQL38+ is SPLLower the tuning, the quieter the bass but it will sound cleaner (SQL)<{POST_SNAPBACK}>wait aint 0-29 sq, 30-35 sql, 36+ spl??
April 27, 200520 yr Admin the box I just built is tuned to approx 26-27 hz, but I would love to try the upcomming LMT tuned to 18 or 20
April 28, 200520 yr the box I just built is tuned to approx 26-27 hz, but I would love to try the upcomming LMT tuned to 18 or 20 <{POST_SNAPBACK}>How would this be better than say tuning to 24hz (what I am actually considering) or 30hz?
April 29, 200520 yr Admin the box I just built is tuned to approx 26-27 hz, but I would love to try the upcomming LMT tuned to 18 or 20 How would this be better than say tuning to 24hz (what I am actually considering) or 30hz?both Stereo Integrity and Sound Splinter reccomended tuning to 28, but if you want to go a little lower to go for an even flatter response that is cool too
April 29, 200520 yr It is probably better not to tune below the FS of the speaker though..<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Why?
May 2, 200520 yr MattB that is a good question. I see that all the time from manufacturers. I believe the tuning frequency stated, is the actual number if you follow the recommended design.The part the gets to me, is why subs that have an FS of say 22hz, are recommended to be tuned to 28Hz for example. The term sub-woofer should mean bass capablities below 35Hz. I use that number because that is the cut-off of most Public Adress speakers. Why build a subwoofer with an FS of 22Hz and recommend a design with 28Hz tuning.Then you will see some subs with an FS of 30Hz and the stated frequency response is 20-1000 for example. That sub will not be efficient at playing 20Hz tones compared to an FS of 22Hz (is that incorrect). Any sub can play well above 30Hz, sealed or ported. The real challange is below 30Hz. All manufacturers shoud suggest a tuning frequency of the FS of their sub not a higher tuning.It would be like buying a car engine that can produce 300 Hp and then purposely govern it, so that it only puts out 200 Hp. Why not just buy a 200 Hp engine.
May 2, 200520 yr Lower the tuning, the quieter the bass but it will sound cleaner (SQL)Not true. A lower tune will broaden the response or flatten it avoiding the peaks most common around a certain tuning frequency. This is not always the case but most often. There are way too many variables and so many options to consider when designing a vented enclosureDamn, I could go a ton of places with this. Each enclosure is going to have a different peak in every vehicle or application. Each specific application is going to be different. Most people don't realize that there's a lot more to it than just building an enclosure and throwing it in the vehicle. The vehicles transfer function is going to be the largest determining factor on how the enclosure will perform. I'm gonna make this simple.Most music is not going to play the bottom octaves. Simply put. If you only need the driver to play a certain range, why tune it otherwise? Problems could arise. Generally, I find most will tune to a happy medium required to accurately produce the desired frequency range. A well designed HT sub will be tuned very low. This is because you are not looking to accurately reproduce musical notes, rather the low frequency material found in movies such as an explosion, or a dinosaur walking. This is where most musical material will never touch. If you are listening to material that is going to be playing sub 30Hz material, then tune low. A REAL, TRUE subwoofer really shouldn't be playing anything above 40-45 Hz. This is ideally where you would want a Strong midbass to take over. Listen to a bass guitar on a subwoofer system around that area, then listen to one on a well designed midbass setup. The differences will astonish you. Surprisingly, the smaller driver SHOULD have a greater effect with better accuracy. This is not true in all cases as previously stated as there are just too many variables to be considered. I could go on, but. . . . .
May 3, 200520 yr To bad most people hane dinky little midbass' that are in a IB setup and have very poor "midbass" output
May 3, 200520 yr I find that the case in many installs. I think true midbass is the most overlooked. Once you hear a car with a good midbass setup you truly find yourself wanting more. This is where I center quite a bit of my time during an install. I'm a mid-basshead.
May 3, 200520 yr i try to be, but nothing seems to work.IB sucks poopNot if you use the correct driver. I'm running IB. Quite strong. IF you have room for an 8", the Kicker RMB8s are excellent. I have yet to hear their replacement, but if they are as good as the RMB8s, they will rock. You can basically not even use your sub with the performance of them.
May 3, 200520 yr i believe ryan does..and kicker also makes those in a 6.5 size...i know where there is a BNIB set for sale as well as the newer versions...ssb6.5's or something like that..they match the ss componets....wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
May 3, 200520 yr Kent is correct, but I can't comment on the 6.5s. Have no experience with them, but if they perform like the 8s, they are awesome. I'm going to be running some 7" drivers IB.
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