I am going to get a 15" fi btl in my civic, being powered by 2500 watts, and i want to know ways to not let any sound come out of the car. Meaning, even with windows down, i dont want to be heard cuz i dont want to get shit jacked/annoy people. Is there a way to do this, or is it just going to be loud anyways, and i would just need to turn it down at times?

You can start by deadening the trunk, doors and roof. These should quiet it down.

As far as quiet with the windows down, I don't know if you can do it other than turning it down

You can start by deadening the trunk, doors and roof. These should quiet it down.

As far as quiet with the windows down, I don't know if you can do it other than turning it down

Thats the best advice and all the advice you will need, by SecondSkin dampening FTW!

You can start by deadening the trunk, doors and roof. These should quiet it down.

As far as quiet with the windows down, I don't know if you can do it other than turning it down

I mean is there a way to tune the box to do this? lol i guess with windows down i kinda have to have it down, but does the box play a role in this? (By the way, its a trunk system)

Barriers work in both directions. Nothing you can do when the windows are down. In a perfectly deadened car the windows are going to be the weak link when they're up. Nothing you can do short of completely rebuilding the car.

you dont even hear the bass outside my car when the windows are up ... the minute i crack them all hell breaks loose outside the vehicle lol

lol, but dampening quiets down the bass (on the outside) or does it just reduce the rattling, or both

lol, but dampening quiets down the bass (on the outside) or does it just reduce the rattling, or both

Dampening simply reduces panels from vibrating.

You need a barrier more than you need dampening. Obviously there are spots where some butyl material will help, but MLV or lead are your friend.

You can start by deadening the trunk, doors and roof. These should quiet it down.

As far as quiet with the windows down, I don't know if you can do it other than turning it down

Thats the best advice and all the advice you will need, by SecondSkin dampening FTW!

Or you can use your money more wisely and shop at http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi unlike other manufacturers the advice that Don gives you is much more useful and his products are top notch.

Or you can use your money more wisely and shop at http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi unlike other manufacturers the advice that Don gives you is much more useful and his products are top notch.

Another of my myth's dispelled.. I will be using the CLD tiles + MLV barrier in my Volvo instead of the cheap 2-layer fatmat sitting in my garage.. thank you!

Or you can use your money more wisely and shop at http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi unlike other manufacturers the advice that Don gives you is much more useful and his products are top notch.

Another of my myth's dispelled.. I will be using the CLD tiles + MLV barrier in my Volvo instead of the cheap 2-layer fatmat sitting in my garage.. thank you!

Yes it is a bummer that most people read deadener as "sound deadener", the conventional deadener is actually a vibration dampener not a sound barrier. Both obviously have their places, but the major difference I see between the manufacturers is that Don (SDS) actually recommends what works and also has chosen his products appropriately for the task and less so for profit margin. IMO doing business that way will net you a long term success versus the short term forum boner success that other companies will end up with. I hope (and expect) that it will stay that way. I do have a sample of Don's products and will also add that they are definitely nicer than what else is out there on the market.

Best way to keep sound in the car is to creat a solid system of noise reduction similar to how you would keep noise from coming in.

Treat teh interior sheet metal with a vibration damper to reduce the structure borne noise. Our product is Damplifier Pro

Apply a noise barrier on top of that.

A good choice is a heavy vinyl barrier that is laminated to a closed cell foam.

Ours is called Luxury Liner Pro.

Not only will the help to increase the volume of the music inside the car, but it will also reduce the road noise, engine noise and exhaust drone so that the music in the car has less sonic territory to fight over.

Less unwanted noise means more wanted noise. The music will automatically appear to be louder becuase it has less noise to fight with

Hope that helps!

ANT

Best way to keep sound in the car is to creat a solid system of noise reduction similar to how you would keep noise from coming in.

Treat teh interior sheet metal with a vibration damper to reduce the structure borne noise. Our product is Damplifier Pro

Apply a noise barrier on top of that.

A good choice is a heavy vinyl barrier that is laminated to a closed cell foam.

Ours is called Luxury Liner Pro.

Not only will the help to increase the volume of the music inside the car, but it will also reduce the road noise, engine noise and exhaust drone so that the music in the car has less sonic territory to fight over.

Less unwanted noise means more wanted noise. The music will automatically appear to be louder becuase it has less noise to fight with

Hope that helps!

ANT

Panel resonances aren't really going to add so much noise outside. As I said before he needs a barrier. If he truly wants to stop as much noise as possible a lead barrier would be more effective than the MLV. Rattles of course are another concern, but addressing each one of those will require a different technique depending on where it is coming from.

Curious why you recommend MLV bonded to a CCF, I'd personally rather decouple independently.

What would be your reason for decoupling independantly. Do you see a perfomance gain?

ANT

What would be your reason for decoupling independantly. Do you see a perfomance gain?

ANT

Depends on the car. The performance of a barrier is determined by its coverage which should be complete. Considering it is regularly difficult to have a single sheet covering a full surface this means there will be odd shaped pieces and seams. Minimizing any losses through the overlap regions is difficult with the foam already attached. On top of that it makes installation more difficult IMO trying to get a thicker sheet to follow contours. Being able to apply each independently then is easier to do correctly and if it isn't done correctly then there will be performance lost.

I am still curious to why you think differently.

What would be your reason for decoupling independantly. Do you see a perfomance gain?

ANT

Depends on the car. The performance of a barrier is determined by its coverage which should be complete. Considering it is regularly difficult to have a single sheet covering a full surface this means there will be odd shaped pieces and seams. Minimizing any losses through the overlap regions is difficult with the foam already attached. On top of that it makes installation more difficult IMO trying to get a thicker sheet to follow contours. Being able to apply each independently then is easier to do correctly and if it isn't done correctly then there will be performance lost.

I am still curious to why you think differently.

Experince form installing both types of material has lead me to prefer a pre bonded barrier.

For me, it is just easier to apply one mat, rather that 2.

Plus, no glueing of the vinyl tot he foam with messy adhesive means less work.

The amount of overlap you avoid by using a 2 part system compared toa single part system is so minimal that to me, it is not worth it. Plus the bonded mehod is much more forgiving in terms of noob installation. Less to mess up

Just me preference based on my experience though. Both methods work when done correctly.

ANT