Edited August 9, 200916 yr by latorgator

I cant seem to get phot's to load from photo bucket could someone help me please

copy the IMG code and paste directly into your typing area. Do not use the insert image button, just copy the IMG code instead and paste here.

copy the IMG code and paste directly into your typing area. Do not use the insert image button, just copy the IMG code instead and paste here.

Thanks a million man..

what is this goin in?

That is an odd box to actually have the baffle elevate off the floor like that.

Its going in a 94 fleetwood from in the trunk to out the rear deck

ok here is ur trunk with the tire still in, i know you took yours out.. but-

I actually think you should leave the box FLAT!

I wouldnt use the angled part of the car as part of the box.

You can use that to your benefit in box design just like people use hatchbacks to their advantage when designing smaller setups.

can u do me this favor-

Give me the maximum height you can use IN BETWEEN the trunk arms from where the trunk floor begins to be flat to the rear bumper. I'm assuming it gets lower the closer to the bumper you get so if that's true, tell me what that height is.

I will also need to know what is the width, the INSIDE width from the left trunk arm to the right trunk arm.

Then i will need to know the MAXIMUM width of the trunk floor KEEPING the height the same level all the way across that you will tell me soon when measured at the back of the car.

I will then need the depth of the trunk floor from the closest i can get to the rear of the car to where the flat part of the floor stops.

Then i can see how much space u have so i can think of another acoustical design if available.

ill get this all measured up tonite i really appreciate it. I sorta wanted to have the speakers in the main cab if i could but i cant loose my rear seat but if not thats fine

Heres pictures of my trunk

Give me the maximum height you can use IN BETWEEN the trunk arms from where the trunk floor begins to be flat to the rear bumper. I'm assuming it gets lower the closer to the bumper you get so if that's true, tell me what that height is.

-20 inches height between arms

-18 inches height near bumper

I will also need to know what is the width, the INSIDE width from the left trunk arm to the right trunk arm.

-45 inches width between trunk arms

Then i will need to know the MAXIMUM width of the trunk floor KEEPING the height the same level all the way across that you will tell me soon when measured at the back of the car.

-55 inches max width

I will then need the depth of the trunk floor from the closest i can get to the rear of the car to where the flat part of the floor stops.

didnt understand this one

OK, what is Depth #1's depth seen below?

Also, what is Depth #2's depth AND what is it's width?

Also, i fi use the whole 55" width in Depth #1's area, can the box be 18" tall WITH the trunk closed? The trunk arms won't be in the way?

depth 1 and 2 is 20 inches except for right below the trunk latch that depth is 18 inches but it only sticks out about 3 inches of rear trunk wall and all these measurements are with trunk closed

OK, now onto the purpose of design...

Is this for daily, non-sanctioned competitions or for sanctioned xompetitions?

Are u or do u have the capability to test different box designs to find the best design or are u set on a certain firing direction?

Something else you must consider too-

Measure the opening of your trunk because if i decide to create a large box, if it doesnt fit, you gonna have to build it inside the trunk which will be... well not easy.

Basically just the max width and depth of the opening is fine.

You got PLENTY of room to do a massive forward firing design for competition but i might be able to use some of this room to do a rear firing design so you can have a loading area and be very loud for daily driving too.

This is for my daily, I have a few other cars to drive so I have time to play around. i could build it in the trunk if needed no problem there, I would almost like the subs in my cab through my rear deck but it seems the only way to due that is to make a screwy box.. So Ill go with what ever anyone thinks will be loudest. Also not sure if it matters but I currently have 2 rf t4001bd amps to push them. Thanks man

hehe, well if u plan on using both of those amps.... We are gonna have to work out all the space required to get this built!

Get the largest alternator you can for your car first.

After you get that, you are gonna need a minimum of 250aH for short full blast runs or close to ~500aH of batts for long term runs at max power and capability of stabilizing voltage at idle a lot better due to extra bank.

I'm gonna have to draw all this out in CAD so i will need to know what batts you plan on goin with so i can make sure everything fits when it gets designed.

NOTE-

When i am done with a design, The design is PURELY based on the specs you give me. If anything has been measured wrong, or not installed in the exact manner as it is drawn out, it may not fit depending on how tight of space i may have to work with. If i feel it will be a very tight install, i will want you beforehand to ensure physically that you have the appropriate room before buying all your equipment.

I currently own 3 250 amp altenators currentl one is installed (waiting for buddy to build my new bracket for all three) also I have four of the stinger 2400 amp batteries (they are the second biggest ones they make) I have enough fuses and o/1 guage wire also, just upgraded the car wireing and also rear suspension. entire car is dynomat and the trunk also be sprayed with "undercoating" before and after box is installed, I really appreciate all this man

r u talkin bout this battery-

The SP1700. 1700A for 5 seconds or 3500A short circuit.

I will say that you really dont need 3 250A alts but if u already got em... use em hehe.

If this is the batt u have, i'm assuming ALL 4 is going in the rear? or is 1 of the 4 going up front?

After i get this info, i'll start doing the design.

all 4 in rear have a yellow top up front, and I was almost thinking of just running 2 altenators and saving one as a back up

good idea on the dual alt instead, i suggest doing that.

Also, you will be mixing battery technologies and i strongly suggest you to get solenoids in this design to prevent premature battery failure.

I've never done a dual alt setup but i assume you are gonna use 1 alt to run starting battery and 2 stinger batts and the other alt to run the other 2 stinger batts, correct?

If this is right, you will need 2 200A solenoids. You can go to www.oznium.com and to the left, go down to relays and purchase 2 of their 200A solenoids.

When the main power line comes from Alt #1, you will wire the solenoids(which will be in the rear of the car) in parallel so they can accept up to 400A of current per line so the tops dont melt.

It's too risky just to run 1 because you can fry the terminals since they only rated for 200A individually.

I can show you how to wire them in parallel when that time comes.

Look to spend just under $100 for both of them shipped.

These will isolate the first 2 stinger batts from the Optima and will prevent premature battery failure.

You dont need 2 more for the other alt because all batts(just the other 2 stingers) are same make and model so nothing bad should happen.

would it be best if I just bought another matchng battery and used a total of 5 stinger batteries

just to let you know i get alot of my extras through the company my pops has managed for over 30 years now ( http://www.sturdevants.com) so if there is anything you think I should get to help my system out just let me know, I have a huge charge account there (its basically where i spend all my money always got to due something better wit one of the cars)

if ur starting battery was the same make and model, then no need for solenoids but if it's different, u need em for reliability.

oh, u never told me, is that your battery that u have? the sp1700?