What would the difference be on music between 4 15s and the 4 18s?

deaf = 15s, psychological problems = 18s

ahaha so were most likely going to try and go for the 18s. How much of a difference if we cannot go all the way back to the hump with that. I am pretty sure we cannot but we can get 14"s im sure.

ok, if u get 56" wide external, this is the dimensions then for the baffle for the first 14" back so make sure this is right-

56" wide x 14" deep x 41.25" high

Make sure u can go the full 41.25" high and maintain 56" width.

If not, give me the height adjustment so i can adjust width at certain height points and see what the port area says then.

Alright. Josh and I are going to measure tomorrow and see where we end up. Thanks for all your help and insight.

I think we got this, would we still have to do the diamond in the middle or would the extra 3 inches on each side eliminate the need.

completely eliminate it.

Remember, gotta make sure the height up to 41.25 can accommodate 56" wide and if not, let me know how to build the baffle to redraw it.

Alright we have some good news! WEVE GOT PLENTY OF ROOM!!!!!

To get the 14"s we are going to move the box up by 4"s. You are more than welcome to use the extra space to our advantage. We still have 41.25"s of height.

The width is fine for the most part. We have with the doors off. From end to end

On the bottom - 58"s

16"s up - 60"s

24"s up - 62"s

Notches at the window pillar at 26"s - 63"s

At the window pillar at 35"s - 58"s

At the top - 50"s

Let me know if this is still doable.

Thanks and Josh has been raised to be a carpenter so we can most likely do the diamond if needed.

haha I'm confident i can do it lol. I just have one question, are we going to have to double or even triple up the wood for the port as well?

Just to let you know those measurements are from the car floor up and not the dance floor.

haha I'm confident i can do it lol. I just have one question, are we going to have to double or even triple up the wood for the port as well?

Let's hope not

Chris its gonna be tricky matching that curve if we do have to do multiple layers on the diamond.

I am thinking no diamond because then it will not be removable for daily listening.

Just ordered

$500 worth of wire ontop of what is already in my car

$250 worth of rcas and ring terminals

New Kenwood DNX6140, Fans, Fuses, Fuseholders, 3sixty.2

4 Sundown 1500s

Still need some batteries, speakers for the front, another speaker amp, and the subs. Lots more to be spent. So little in the bank account.

Lets not forget the fog machine and neons =(

correct, there will be no diamond.

Speaking of dance floor, are you even going to use one?

I didn't use one on my build but that's because my wall sits on the car frame so it's sturdy.

What will you use to distribute the floor's weight making it level and less to no chance of flexing?

You can run 1\4" thick steel runs and secure that to the vehicle.

The carpenter guy should be able to give u ideas maybe better than me but here is one way u could do it-

Run 1\4" thick steel runs (from one side to the other) about every 12" back until you reach the hump in the back.

Use wood, 2x4s.. 4x4s, whatever it needs to fit in between your floor and the steel.

Secure the steel to the wood, secure the wood to the floor of the vehicle.

You shouldnt need any bracing support for the hump area as it's flat. You WILL need to secure the back part of the box though to the floor as well.

Should you double up on the port?

u can, using 58" width most of the way will allow this i'm almost positive without drawin it out.

So, i'll tell u what i'll do-

I'll design it with double runs of wood on each side of the port.

You will need a God supply of Titebond III, Silicone II, Liquid Nails, and possible 6" L brackets which are $$$ when u gotta start usin over 40 of them, lol.

I'll start redesigning later on today.

This is gonna be a nasty build, cant wait till the wood starts to get laid and glued together ( im tuned in).

well, from experience, when your wood gets laid, it's usually nasty..so for him to be sharing this with us and pics to come... this build should be on Cinemax

well, from experience, when your wood gets laid, it's usually nasty..so for him to be sharing this with us and pics to come... this build should be on Cinemax

LMMFAO!!!!!!!!!

So are you thinking the 18s are going to fit? We were just going to build the dance floor completely out of wood with supports going all along the sides. This is just to level it off. Will this be fine? We'll have to pick up some stuff later. Are we going to need threaded rods?

yes, dont worry bout what all bracing materials u need until i design it for you.the 18s should fit and i cant prove it until i design it.i know your anxious but just give me a couple more hours... then i'll tune to Cinemax tonight, lol

oh that reminds me!

You gonna need to tell me an amount of height that you are gonna dedicate to the dance floor!

Just to let u know, the shorter the height, the wider it needs to be!

This is one reason why i suggested just pure steel.

ok, i'm gonna run the port straight down the middle because you can't keep 58" wide for more than 30" deep...

this will hurt competition port placement some but you must remember that you've never competed before and this is mostly for daily use so it shouldnt be that much of a problem, especially with this much port area!

I'll show u a pic of the baffle here soon.

If you approve, i'll start the 3d design.

NOTE-

This baffle is being designed at 41.25" high so your dance floor or whatever u gonna use better not interfere with this.

ok, here is pic, the main internal rectangle in the center is the port opening. The outer 2 vertical lines per side show the port wood thickness BEHIND the baffle.

This is to show that the wood will not be in the way of mounting your subs.

The circles inside the circles indicate the sub cutout diameter and the outer circles indicate the outside basket size.

It's ok to screw a screw into the 1.5" thick part of the MDF, that's why some of the basket's screw points(no more than 1 per sub) hang over to the thickness of a wall.

It's also possible if you turn the subs just right, you may not even have to screw a single screw into a wall thickness if you didn't want to.

Sounds like a groundpounder, but this is all worthless without pics!

Looks good, and we haven't even started cutting the wood yet lol, but i'm sure there will plenty of pics.

Edited August 27, 200916 yr by JammerJ