Alright heres what i have.

1 Kicker L7 15 Dual 2

Custom Ported Box 4.44 Cubic Feet Internal After Port And Sub Displacement Tuned To 34 Hz

Kicker Kx1200.1-1400 Rms

Alpine HeadUnit

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0/1 Gauge (About To Order)

KnuKonceptz Krystal Klear Subwoofer Rca's (About To Order)

Sub Is Firing Against The Rear And Port is On Passenger Side

How Does That Setup Sound To You?

I Know The L7 Isnt The Best Sub For Spl Or Sq But I Like The Way It Sounds. So Thanks For Your Opinions

Alright heres what i have.

1 Kicker L7 15 Dual 2

Custom Ported Box 4.44 Cubic Feet Internal After Port And Sub Displacement Tuned To 34 Hz

Kicker Kx1200.1-1400 Rms

Alpine HeadUnit

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0/1 Gauge (About To Order)

KnuKonceptz Krystal Klear Subwoofer Rca's (About To Order)

Sub Is Firing Against The Rear And Port is On Passenger Side

How Does That Setup Sound To You?

I Know The L7 Isnt The Best Sub For Spl Or Sq But I Like The Way It Sounds. So Thanks For Your Opinions

I say go for it, if you already have it (are there gonna be any front stage upgrades or factory for now)?

Alright heres what i have.

1 Kicker L7 15 Dual 2

Custom Ported Box 4.44 Cubic Feet Internal After Port And Sub Displacement Tuned To 34 Hz

Kicker Kx1200.1-1400 Rms

Alpine HeadUnit

KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0/1 Gauge (About To Order)

KnuKonceptz Krystal Klear Subwoofer Rca's (About To Order)

Sub Is Firing Against The Rear And Port is On Passenger Side

How Does That Setup Sound To You?

I Know The L7 Isnt The Best Sub For Spl Or Sq But I Like The Way It Sounds. So Thanks For Your Opinions

sounds like a decent setup. what about your electrical??

No electrical upgrades as of yet cause i barely dim. And i do have my front stage upgraded its the mids from a set of kicker components and a random pair of kicker tweeters. Its sounds good i dont turn the bass up so loud that it out drowns the words unless im showing it off i just wanted some opinions on my system thanks

Any more input

Ya, you said it "barely dims" meaning that there IS at least some strain on your electrical system. By deciding to not upgrade any electrical you will hurt at least the life span of the weak link in your electrical system. If the dim is minimal doing the Big 3 in a heavy gauge wire should eliminate that dim and reduce the strain you are causing. Its cheap and very easy to do, sooooo worth it.

Ya, you said it "barely dims" meaning that there IS at least some strain on your electrical system. By deciding to not upgrade any electrical you will hurt at least the life span of the weak link in your electrical system. If the dim is minimal doing the Big 3 in a heavy gauge wire should eliminate that dim and reduce the strain you are causing. Its cheap and very easy to do, sooooo worth it.

x2, best advice in the world at least upgrrade your Big 3 wire and install a voltmeter.

your electrical is the best place to dump some extra cash in, we are useing electronics, the electronics we use thrive off the current we provide, or the opposite also holds true.

looks like a good array of equipment.

chop

How many feet of 0 gauge do you think ill need to do the big 3 should 15 ft be enough or should i just buy another amp kit and it will come with 23 ft? How do i do it? Is it hard? I know a few people who do mechanic work and they will do it for cheap should i have them do it? And the big 3 is alternatir to ground alternator to battery and battery to ground right?

How many feet of 0 gauge do you think ill need to do the big 3 should 15 ft be enough or should i just buy another amp kit and it will come with 23 ft? How do i do it? Is it hard? I know a few people who do mechanic work and they will do it for cheap should i have them do it? And the big 3 is alternatir to ground alternator to battery and battery to ground right?

Yes your definition of the Big 3 is correct, measue with a wire, rope or piece of string the current wire or where and how you want to run it (nobody can give you an exact measurement so it will be better to do it yourself to get the correct amount). If you have the money to waste and you dont want to do it or its hard to get to certain things then yeah you could pay someone to do it or do it yourself (it doesnt matter).

So is it easy and how do i connect the wire to what im hooking it too i.e alternator chassis battery

And ive got the dual 2 L7 so when im setting my gain what do i see it as 1.2.4?

So is it easy and how do i connect the wire to what im hooking it too i.e alternator chassis battery

Yes the Big 3 is easy but you dont sound like you know what your doing, try doing some research on this forum under Amplifiers/Headunits and Electrical thread and there are plenty of topics on it (or simply type it into your search feature on your internet and look it up, plenty of pictures and info to help you) some work you can do on your own you just gotta search.

And ive got the dual 2 L7 so when im setting my gain what do i see it as 1.2.4?

This question makes no sense how about re-writing it so someone can help you. The sub can be wired to a 1ohm load or 4ohm load (find a amp that is 1 ohm stable). Look under the Amplifiers/Headunits/Electrical section again and read the How to Set Amps Gain Topic.

Ok ill try rewriting it. The setting gain correctly Post said To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker. My speaker is dual 2 ohm i have it wired down to 1 my amp is 1400rms. I need to know what impedence to put into the equation. Thank you i know what im talking about besides big 3

Ok ill try rewriting it. The setting gain correctly Post said To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker. My speaker is dual 2 ohm i have it wired down to 1 my amp is 1400rms. I need to know what impedence to put into the equation. Thank you i know what im talking about besides big 3

And thats why I said research the Big 3, so you could gain some more knowledge in that department. You answered your own question, if your subwoofer is wired in parallel down to 1 ohm, then use 1 ohm as your impedence.

Can anyone answer my question?

I still have my stock alternator im going to be be ordering 2 0 gauge amps kits from knukonceptz its the fleks type. One is for my amp and the other one is for doing my big 3. One question ive read up on how to do the big 3 some but how do i connect the wire to my alternator? And will the big 3 be enough for the little bit of dimming i have? If not should i get a battery for the back? If yes will my stock alternator suppport it? Thanks

1400 x 1 = 1400 The impedance is 1 ohm in your equation and it's what your amp see !

So, you should reach 37.42 volts.

Am I right, or not ?!!

I still have my stock alternator im going to be be ordering 2 0 gauge amps kits from knukonceptz its the fleks type. One is for my amp and the other one is for doing my big 3. One question ive read up on how to do the big 3 some but how do i connect the wire to my alternator? And will the big 3 be enough for the little bit of dimming i have? If not should i get a battery for the back? If yes will my stock alternator suppport it? Thanks

Your answering your own question here, If you do the Big Three and your still getting dimming then yes you need to get another battery or upgrade your alternator(that simple). Look at alternator and their is a wire bolted on to a terminal, unscrew the bolt put the upgraded wire on (screw the bolt back down) and run the wire to the battery's positive terminal. Look at the pictures and there are lots of pictures online showing exactly how its down (look at a lot of them so you know what your doing and wont fuck up nothing).

Thanks jaycee i have a feeling your getting irritated with all my questions lol. So would my stock alt support another battery? And i did the gain equation and got that number to but i couldnt figure out how to use the dmm so i said screw it and turned it up about 3/4 of the way

Naw im actually glad to help you, just making sure it sticks in thats all. I need help to so, those I can help will help me also. Yeah a stock alternator will support your battery and if your having voltage problems or just to be safe by an agm charger and charge your second battery time to time to help your alternator out time to time. Good luck man.

Again I would try and learn how to use the DMM just for the safety of sub(s) and amp, but for now just be safe with volume and use ears and nose for stress on the subwoofer and turn it down if it occurs.

Alright thanks so i read another post you chimed in on so if i get a second battery i shouldnt get an isolator? And i read somewhere its better to get one big ass battery for under the hood instead of 2 is that true?

Naw no isolator is needed, it depends if that battery is strong enough to run your system by itself (it is only good because is causes less wires to be ran and weight added to the car and money spent on more than one battery).

Naw no isolator is needed, it depends if that battery is strong enough to run your system by itself (it is only good because is causes less wires to be ran and weight added to the car and money spent on more than one battery).

Ok thanks i think im going to get the kinetik hc1400 if i need a second battery. It supports 1400rms. Are kinetiks good? Thanks . And also does the dynamat license plate really quit rattle of the license plate?