okay , gotta spend time with wifey, might have permission slip signed by tonight, lol.

yea, i got the pm few days ago. The volume is correct, the tuning isn't simply because of this-

When using a slot port, one wall of the box is used as the port wall the entire time.. When calculating port length, once you measure from the outside in, once the prot ends on the inside, take the width(the smallest dimension) and divide by 2 then add this number to the port length for the added acoustical length...

So let's say your port length needs to be 30" long.. your box is 15" deep internally using single baffle with 4" of port width internally...

So, from baffle to back of wall is 15.75" deep then the thickness of that port wall is .75" so 16.5" deep now.. So we need 13.5" more...

Instead of running the 13.5" long, you run 11.5" long.. The port width is 4" so divide by 2 = 2". 2" + 11.5" = 13.5"

The port is on the bottom right corner...

With the box being 40+ wide inches and the port would be 27 or 23.25. Would that matter then?

i dont know, i'm helpin so many people right now.. post the specs of the box again.

I just copied the OP.

tunning will be at 35 hz.port area is 62 sqaure inchesbox volume is 4.29 ( havn't figured out what the 45's and braceing will displace)I just used 4 cubes for all my math.useing 3/4" mdf and will use double baffle.port opening will measure 15.5" W X 4" H , useing the bottom of the enclosure as the bottom of the port, ported to the side.port length will be 27.5" longthe port will fire toward a vertical mdf wall on the drivers side.sub will fire up, and i will plan on having it inverted, for now.it will work out that the sub will be almost centered in the vehicle.keeping in mind this is not a comp build so the pressure i would put on the mic is not factored in.the sub will be the furthest away from the internal port opening. 43.5" W X 17"D X 16"Hi think that is all the info needed, planning on useing the 1 5/8" coarse drywall screws, predrilling and countersinking all holes/useing wood glue and clamps, gotta look up prefered name brand of glue still.will either caulk with normal caulk

need carshow / sound off info asap, i got er' softened up.... cannot open pdf apps. currently..... gimme something i can google.

chop

this is from somerset's website-

Saturday, October 24th, 2PM:

Cruise Entrance Gates Open in Downtown

Somerset for the Show & Shine!!!

It’s the Big Show!!! Blocks and blocks of showcars and

trucks! Stroll thru the downtown area admiring all the

chrome and horsepower, talk to car owners and enjoy the

family oriented atmosphere! Don't forget to visit our official

merchandise trailer for the brand new '09 t-shirts for adults

and kids. In the Vendor Alley, you can sample great food,

check out vendor displays and shop for new performance

and restoration parts. There is always plenty to see and do

at SomernitesCruise! You will enjoy the great cruisin' tunes all over town too!

This is from the PDF file-

here is the box u want to build-

You sure u want to do that?

I dont like boxes where the sub fires directly toward the port exit...

That's one main reason why long, single shot ran ports are hard to cope with the box due to this.

The port in the pick is 24.75" long internally displaced, 25.5" long total.

Remaining space- 0.13cubes to equal your 4cubes NET. So, you got plenty of room left for bracing and 45s in the corners.

i mean you could right a book on what i don't know about box design..... can you throw something together a little better suited for us?

i am going to spend all of tomorrow trying to make this come together and would like to start building this weekend...

might grab a room at that Brecenridge Inn, that is usually where we crash at, how close is this to you?

then just have a caravan down to the show....have you been there before?

is there places where the women folk can get lost at for a while?

she digs the shows, but not like all day ...lol

who all is meeting up with you?

i will probably have the ol' lady, mikey & rattlebox317 (steve) tagging along.

Chop

sent you a pm, gotta get off of here for tonight, will look it all over in the am.

chop

i've never been down there but it doesnt matter, the WHOLE BLOCK is ours! They dedicated the whole downtown block to the show.

Theres more than just car audio. Theres the car show section too.

right on, just curious what all is going down..... been to some great shows and some real washes too.

As long as I swing by the boat on the way down there, she should do fine. lol.

can't believe they are calling for flurries this weekend here, couldn't be nice weather for me, now could it. lol

i think i am getting ready to go rip the seats out the truck in a few.....

chop

used expanding foam to deaden back wall and started the floor for the box to rest on, also began to install side panels to dress out the rear of truck.

mr.shizzzon,

have you had the time to finalize the new port design you had suggested?

thanks chop

those arent glued yet are they?

You suppose to be firing to driver side still, right?

I'll get on it real soon.

those arent glued yet are they?

You suppose to be firing to driver side still, right?

I'll get on it real soon.

No, there is no glue, yes port to the side still

this area seen in the picture above is a platform , if you will, for the box to sit on....this seemed better than just throwing it in the rear on top of the seat.....

54" side to side

17" deep

height can vary, but the top of that rear board is 16" tall

chop

ok, i got the port specs for your current box design-

port is 15.5x3.75

Internal Volume is 4.3cuft NET

Port specs measuring from port opening on driver side-

Port opening 15.5" deep x 3.75" high

From opening inside, measure 3.75" back and build port wall 15.5" deep x 10" tall mounted on the floor.

From that port wall, measure 3.75" back and build this port wall 15.5" deep x 6.25" high mounted underneath double baffle.

You can add small 45 corners in this port run and keep it no longer than 2" in either direction.

You will have 0.1 cuft left over for bracing. That should be enough.

PS... i replied to your laptop post as well earlier so dont forget to read it

okay, i got this one read, i see a vertical port that is on ther drivers side of the box...... so this will put the sub placement to the far paasenger side, if i am thinking correctly......which is fine by me on sub placement...

so, looking for conformation of sub placement and will be throwing box together like tuesday....

thanks for the reply on the laptop, that is Samantha's, (our oldest daughter), computer.....

thanks

chop

chop,

notice there was no pics of you working?

lol,

IAK

yes, that is correct, vertical port.

will be making a attempt to grab the mdf tomorrow,

if I do then the box should be able to get under way shortly there after.

I'm ready to build it, I've been feenin for a build. lol.

easy buddy, just take some saw dust and begin to huff it slowly....

breath deeply...... easy, just stay calm. you can get through this......

where is your screw gun at? just hold it for a little while.....