Hello I have an 86 Crown Vic with a currently fried stock 65 amp alt. I replaced the stock one with a stock replacement junkyard alt about three weeks ago. And it went out again yesterday. I plan on upgrading in the future but for now i plan on doing the big three when i have the chance, Im hoping that will help my alt last a little longer. Im running a kicker 300.1 now to 1 sub. In the future i want to upgrade my system.

I was looking at this alt:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCI-N7755-11HO/ and was wondering if that alternator would be enough to support maybe 1000-1500 wrms?

Thanks for the help.

So, you have 300 rms and are cooking alts? There is an issue with the car.

So, you have 300 rms and are cooking alts? There is an issue with the car.

x2, You need to get your electrical checked out or something becuase your alts shouldnt be frying like that.

well everything was fine until i put the amp in then about 2 months later the alt quit charging so i went to the junkyard and got one then that one went in about 2 weeks. I just thought it was a weak stock alt, its only 65amps total.

well everything was fine until i put the amp in then about 2 months later the alt quit charging so i went to the junkyard and got one then that one went in about 2 weeks. I just thought it was a weak stock alt, its only 65amps total.

Yeah that could be the case, try to find one with more amps (that will definantly help out).

ok thanks.

Do you think 150amps would be able to support 1000-1500 watts rms?

ok thanks.

Do you think 150amps would be able to support 1000-1500 watts rms?

Yeah it should with a bigger starting battery or an addition of a secondary battery, you should be fine just make sure to buy a voltmeter to tell when things are going bad.

Ok thanks.

My plan for now is another stock alt with the big 3 done. I hope that works ok.

ok thanks.

Do you think 150amps would be able to support 1000-1500 watts rms?

I run around 1500w RMS on a 135amp alt and a Yellowtop up front without any problems. Voltage always stays in the 14s.

Have you done the big 3

Well i put new alt in. Cars runnning again monday im going to do the big 3.

Thanks for the help.

Well i put new alt in. Cars runnning again monday im going to do the big 3.

Thanks for the help.

I would definantly suggest doing the Big 3 in 1/0 AWG wire or bigger, to get a better voltage than do more ground runs from battery than positive runs. For example you will have 2- 1/0 AWG power runs (one for system and one for cars electrical), so at least do 3- 1/0 AWG or 2- 2/0 AWG wire for negative terminal of battery to cars frame. You dont have to do this but from personal experience and others experience it helps stabilize the volage even at idle with system on or off.

Well today my radio display stayed lit when i cut my car off and kept playing unresponsive to any buttons. It drained my battery and left me stranded at work. So i jumped it off drove home and disconnected the battery cable. Zippity phuckin doo-daa

Sounds like you dont have one of the h/u wires correct. Did you double check those?

No not yet. Today i put the battery cable back on and the battery didn't have enough power to crank the car but the radio turned on and off like it was supposed to.

I plan on checking the wires tomorrow.

so i went today and go some 1/0 wire to do the big three but now i cant find anywhere to get the ring terminals that large. I checked lowes and home depot, and called an electrical supply company but got nothing.

Where do you all get your ring terminals and other connections at for that large of wire?

Also i noticed there is not a positive running strait from my alt to my batt to upgrade, has anyone else encountered this? I can get pics if necessary.

Thanks for the help

so i went today and go some 1/0 wire to do the big three but now i cant find anywhere to get the ring terminals that large. I checked lowes and home depot, and called an electrical supply company but got nothing.

Where do you all get your ring terminals and other connections at for that large of wire?

Also i noticed there is not a positive running strait from my alt to my batt to upgrade, has anyone else encountered this? I can get pics if necessary.

Thanks for the help

Yeah take pictures but that would help.

Your setup sounds like mine because my battery is in the back then the positive wire goes from the battery positive terminal to the fuse box under hood, then a wire leaves the fuse box and goes to the starter, then a smaller wire leaves the starter and goes to the alternator.

Thats why I only did the grounds so far, 2 of the Big 3. Were in the same boat, thats why I said you could do your grounds first since the positive wire wont be done right away (you will be safe with bigger ground wires than positive wires, than vice versa).

I get my ring terminals from a local car audio shop or online (the only places I know that carry ones bigger than 8 gauge).

ok thanks ill check the local CA shops.

I did the battery ground today.

Here are pics:

The pic above is of the wire from the batt positive to the solenoid.

Edited November 2, 200915 yr by CrownVic

What kind of terminals are those on the 1/0 welding wire for the ground wire you did?

that reminds me i need some friggin terminals...

only place i no charges 14 bucks for 2 1/0 and then i say

There aluminum terminals.

They were the only thing i could find. Im gonna look for something better tomorrow.

I still have noticable dimming though. I still got to do the other 2 stages of the "big 3" though.

that reminds me i need some friggin terminals...

only place i no charges 14 bucks for 2 1/0 and then i say

Damn your getting raped for those terminals, I get 2 for $5 and 5 for $10. They are usually cheaper online but you have to pay for shipping and handling and then wait for them).

I got those teminals at HomeDepot for $2 apiece.

I paid $18 for 8' of that wire at lowes.

Edited November 2, 200915 yr by CrownVic

My link

The wires that u would usually upgrade are built into the harness.... u could put a gm alternator up there from looking at the pics...

My link

CS 144. 140 amps for 114 bucks ain't bad and the cases are large so the disipate heat really well and you have a post on the back so you can do the big three... you will need a harness for the regulator they sell those at autozone too .. the alternator usually comes with a wiring diagrame. they need a hot from your acc switch to cut it on and off or it will not charge, or drain your battery. Also that same alternator has the potiential to be hopped up to 200, 250, or 350 amps and it wont cost an arm and a leg. just an idea. its cheaper to go ahead and put a good one on now than to keep buying junk in the long run.

Edited November 3, 200915 yr by alexj01_83

I had to replace my batt. But i got a dmm and ran another ground from the batt neg. to the engine, and now at full tilt with heat on high and my lights on im seeing an average of 14v with the lowest drops being 13.5v at idle.

Batt is at 12.8 with car off.