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I had to replace my batt. But i got a dmm and ran another ground from the batt neg. to the engine, and now at full tilt with heat on high and my lights on im seeing an average of 14v with the lowest drops being 13.5v at idle.

Batt is at 12.8 with car off.

That extra battery ground helped out didnt it, good job man and glad to see things are getting better in the Vic.

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  • sorry i just noticed the links didn't go where I intended them to. but that alternator i was speaking of comes in the 94-95 Cadillac fleetwood brougham or impala ss with 5.7 lt1

sorta goes with the flow here,

i was told today that i should add at least six more points of grounding to my truck!

it was said that it will only help things out that much more.

is this accurate?

would multiple grounds throughout the vehicle benifit the system ?

thanks

chop

I wouldnt say you need six unless you had a lot of runs of power. Right now I only have a 4 gauge(to alternator) and 1/0 awg(to amps) on batteries positive post, and on the negative post of the battery I have 2-1/0 awg wires and my voltage is high and stays high during full tilt and at idle it is very stable.

I would say just double up what you have on the positive post for the ground posts. In the future I will have one 2/0AWG(for system) and one 4 guage (to alternator) on the battery's positive post and to be safe and get the best voltage possible I will use 2-3/0 AWG wires (I was going to do 2-2/0AWG but I know I will be upgrading the alternator and wire going to it so Im just planning my grounds ahead of time). Hope this helps.

sorta goes with the flow here,

i was told today that i should add at least six more points of grounding to my truck!

it was said that it will only help things out that much more.

is this accurate?

would multiple grounds throughout the vehicle benifit the system ?

thanks

chop

I dont think that will help in what you are trying to do in that truck Chop. Just make sure the ones you have are top notch and you should be fine. I ended up welding bolts to my frame by the engine. A couple washers and nuts and they are the best grounds Ive ever had!

  • Author

From what ive read just do a good frame ground then an engine ground and you should be fine.

I still havent figured out how to do the positive yet but atleast my voltage is stable.

From what ive read just do a good frame ground then an engine ground and you should be fine.

I still havent figured out how to do the positive yet but atleast my voltage is stable.

The positive wire goes from battery positive post to alternators positive post.

  • Author

Not on ford alts. Theres just a wiring harness that plugs in, thats what messes me up.

Well how big is the wire that is on there now and how big is your alternator?

/

Edited by wof131s

What kind of wire is that on the battery ground? The stands look super big. I didnt think you could use that kind of wire. That looks like the wire that goes into the breaker panels of a house.

What kind of wire is that on the battery ground? The stands look super big. I didnt think you could use that kind of wire. That looks like the wire that goes into the breaker panels of a house.

Yeah now that you said something and it is house wiring which is not good in car audio. Correct me if Im wrong but from my understanding the reason why house wire strands are so thick is because the current flows in the strands. Whereas in car audio the current flows around the outside of the strands. I had a two friends who messed up their amps using this wire, not only was it hard to work with too. You might want to get you some welding wire (weldingsupply.com or weldingdepot.com).

  • Author

I thought it was the same thing as welding wire. The alt positive looks to be maybe 10 or 12 awg.

I thought it was the same thing as welding wire. The alt positive looks to be maybe 10 or 12 awg.

Naw it's not the same thing, thats house/residential and commercial wiring.

  • Author

Does it honestly matter?

Im not gonna run that type of wire to the amp just for electrical wiring.

Does it honestly matter?

Im not gonna run that type of wire to the amp just for electrical wiring.

We wouldnt be telling you this if it didnt matter dude but you can keep and see how it works for you, I seen failures with the last two people i seen use it. Just my .02

Not on ford alts. Theres just a wiring harness that plugs in, thats what messes me up.

Your alt has to have a + charging post, you have a 4G or a large case 6G alt..... your plug on your alt ( its a 3 wire or a 2 wire ) one wire will be to excite the regulator , for the fords one will be to the ECM depending on your model you have have a variable voltage regulator (some fuel savings bull $%) and the third will be to a 12 volt constant source.

Edited by 144dbFiBl15

Correct me if Im wrong but from my understanding the reason why house wire strands are so thick is because the current flows in the strands. Whereas in car audio the current flows around the outside of the strands. I had a two friends who messed up their amps using this wire, not only was it hard to work with too. You might want to get you some welding wire (weldingsupply.com or weldingdepot.com).

No AC or DC it make no difference. Electrons flow over the surface of wire.... home wire usually has less strands bc its cheaper to produce and you are normally dealing with less current in residential applications.

Edited by 144dbFiBl15

What kind of wire is that on the battery ground? The stands look super big. I didnt think you could use that kind of wire. That looks like the wire that goes into the breaker panels of a house.

Yeah now that you said something and it is house wiring which is not good in car audio. Correct me if Im wrong but from my understanding the reason why house wire strands are so thick is because the current flows in the strands. Whereas in car audio the current flows around the outside of the strands. I had a two friends who messed up their amps using this wire, not only was it hard to work with too. You might want to get you some welding wire (weldingsupply.com or weldingdepot.com).

No AC or DC it make no difference. Electrons flow over the surface of wire.... home wire usually has less strands bc its cheaper to produce and you are normally dealing with less current in residential applications.

  • Author

Im lost at how to upgrade the wires in the harness. But yes your correct with the wire layout.

either im lost or your lost......why do you want to upgrade your wiring harness to you alt??

  • Author

What i meant was the little plug in at the alt.

Theres no single power wire from alt to batt that i can upgrade with bigger wire. Because of the Ford alt design i Don't know if its possible without going to a GM single wire style Alt. I guess when i upgrade my alt thats what ill look for.

What i meant was the little plug in at the alt.

Theres no single power wire from alt to batt that i can upgrade with bigger wire. Because of the Ford alt design i Don't know if its possible without going to a GM single wire style Alt. I guess when i upgrade my alt thats what ill look for.

You arent looking to replace the wire right? You should be adding a new one and never should you attempt to take the stock ones out. It makes no sense if you are adding new ones, plus it adds more work.

  • Author

Ok.

But how would i add a new one?

I see what you mean and agree with you, but i still don't know how to add a new one and thats where im stuck. :suicide-santa:

Ok.

But how would i add a new one?

I see what you mean and agree with you, but i still don't know how to add a new one and thats where im stuck. :suicide-santa:

You cant find where the positive connection is on the alt? Are you saying the harness with the plug is the only wires attached to your alt?

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