In an Alero, what kind of alt will I need to run a 4000W amp @ 1ohm with 4-600W for components? How many runs of 1.0 wouldn't be overkill? Will one battery stayed charged and properly power 4500ish watts? Big 3 of course. Thanks.

ur probably gonna need at least a 200 amp alternator and probably 3 batteries at least. def 2 runs of 0 gauge and big three in 0 gauge

In an Alero, what kind of alt will I need to run a 4000W amp @ 1ohm with 4-600W for components? How many runs of 1.0 wouldn't be overkill? Will one battery stayed charged and properly power 4500ish watts? Big 3 of course. Thanks.

First of all search and find what is the biggest alternator made for your vehicle, two to three runs of 1/0 awg should be fine and the battery scenario depends on alternator size and what battery you get. So after finding what alternator you can get we can go from there giving you accurate advice rather than just guessing. What batteries are you looking at? and so on.

Thats why I said give more information or you will get post like the one above just guessing (its a good guess but it doesnt help specifically). Read new member posting guidelines before posting again to get the best help possible.

ur probably gonna need at least a 200 amp alternator and probably 3 batteries at least. def 2 runs of 0 gauge and big three in 0 gauge

I would say at least a 250 amp alt. with at least two kinetik hc2400 batts. again big three in all zero and like above.

what kind of amp are your pushing anyways and what subs for this application?

Gotta buy everything, an amp that'll push 2 BTL 12's. I'm trying to save weight. Can I get a bigger alt and use 1 batt or a smaller alt and 3 bats or will the alt not power enough or not have anywhere to put that power?

Keep in mind that an HO alt is only going to put out around 125 ish or so at idle. So the extra bats will be needed to sustain at low RPM, Replace the stock under the hood with the bigest one you can fit and two in the trunk. If you are looking to do a 4K set-up properly saving weight is going to be a tall order.....thats like asking for a dragster to run 8's and still get 35 mpg

Approx. how much can 1 battery sustain?

Your pushing almost 5 K. Having one battery in the back will not due. weight will be an issue, because two batteries at the least, are need for that much power If weight is a concerned I would just go with a 3k Amp. for that my advice is 2 batteries in the back, a decent size in the front, Big 3 in O guage, HO alternator (230 at the least), and at least 3 runs of 0g to the back IMO. Better to be safe than light...

Biggest alt you can find, big 3, and a d3100 in the back. Call it a day at that.

You're trying to save weight, but want a loud audio system. The two do not go hand in hand.

As everybody mentioned, the biggest alternator you can get made for your vehicle. Big 3. 3 Kinetik KHC1800 (or equiv.) in the back and 1 KHC1400 (or equiv.) in the front.

I would go with the biggest wiring you can afford. 3 runs of 1/0 or 1 run of 4/0. It'll probably equal out about the same on price, but the 4/0 will give you quite a bit more headromm (in my opinion) than 3 runs of 1/0.

Just my .02

Edited November 23, 200915 yr by TechSys

what year is the Olds, Alero?

O/T, pics, for rattlebox317.

thanks

chop

Biggest alt you can find, big 3, and a d3100 in the back. Call it a day at that.

I think it will take more than just one XS Power D3100 to keep his voltage nice. Just my .02

The difference between 2k and 4k should be around 3db right? If 1 battery can sustain 2k that's fine, but would 2 subs that are 1000 RMS be louder? I wouldn't mind using 2k if the subs will last longer, 2 12's and 2k is more than what I had, as long as I'm louder than a 12/1500w. What about using an amp at .5 or .25ohm, does that still need the battery power or is it the amp that's pushed harder?

Power does not mean everything, focus on what subs you want to get and go from there. No point in throwing all that power at subs if your not competing anyway. Dont run an amplifier lower than the final ohm load unless you dont want to keep you amp for a long time, running them that low will kill them over time and strain your electrical alot.

Its all about the install, if done right then yeah it will be better than your old setup.

I'd rather have 2 btl's on 2k than 2 q's on 2k, just so when it's cranked I know the subs aren't at max. output, but is the output exponentially worse at half power? In my old/stolen sunfire 2-door I had a 90amp alt, a visonik V900XD 1500W @ 1ohm, 2 runs of 1/0 and an 05 RE XXX 12D2 in 2.2 cubes @ 35 or 37hz that was facing the trunk lid, without the big 3, and I was very happy with it, my rearview fell off twice. Now I have an 01 Alero 4-door and I want 2 12's with everything facing forewards, blocking off the trunk using the max. dimensions (17 x 37), it will be louder I'm sure. Is 2 btl's or 2 q's nearly the same on 2k or will it not move the BTL enough and give the edge to the Q? I had an APX on 1500W and it hardly moved but was about the same dB. Box is 2.7 @ 33hz, depth is 26 so I don't have any space for batteries in the trunk, unless I did 2.4 cubes each @ 35hz, the depth would be 23" leaving 7" for battery width. Still, 2 btl's and the box is already 250lbs, I can't afford the gas on that. DD9512's would be cool but I've never heard them.

I'd rather have 2 btl's on 2k than 2 q's on 2k, just so when it's cranked I know the subs aren't at max. output, but is the output exponentially worse at half power? In my old/stolen sunfire 2-door I had a 90amp alt, a visonik V900XD 1500W @ 1ohm, 2 runs of 1/0 and an 05 RE XXX 12D2 in 2.2 cubes @ 35 or 37hz that was facing the trunk lid, without the big 3, and I was very happy with it, my rearview fell off twice. Now I have an 01 Alero 4-door and I want 2 12's with everything facing forewards, blocking off the trunk using the max. dimensions (17 x 37), it will be louder I'm sure. Is 2 btl's or 2 q's nearly the same on 2k or will it not move the BTL enough and give the edge to the Q? I had an APX on 1500W and it hardly moved but was about the same dB. Box is 2.7 @ 33hz, depth is 26 so I don't have any space for batteries in the trunk, unless I did 2.4 cubes each @ 35hz, the depth would be 23" leaving 7" for battery width. Still, 2 btl's and the box is already 250lbs, I can't afford the gas on that. DD9512's would be cool but I've never heard them.

BTL's will be louder than BL's and Q's on less power than recommended. Why not just one 15" BTL on 2000watts and call it a day. Just my .02

The max height is 17, 15.5+.75" mdf = 17 - no spacing, I don't want that and I'd like to use 1" mdf, if I was using a 15" I'd use 19.5" height, if I used this triangle calculator correctly, if the height is 17, than to get 19.5" (height), I have to add 9.56" to the bottom, so I halved it like this:

http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html

37 width

17 height

15

24.56 (+9.56

1

4.27 (64.05 square inches of port)

4.582 - .21 displacement = 4.372 @ 36hz.

Add .5 to each depth and it's 4.715 - .21 = 4.505 cubes @ 35.5 hz.

I don't know if -4.78 & +4.78 is enough space for magnet clearance, probably not with 1" spacing.

The only way I could do an 18" foreward fire is if I cut up the stuff that connects the rear deck, which is something I'd do.

37 x 20 x 30 / .75" mdf, 7" port, 129.5 square inches, 8.312 - .26 displacement = 8.052 @ 31hz.

That's with .75" mdf though, and there would be no spacing for top & bottom, is that a problem? That box would slide right in if I could fit 20" tall, which is the top of the trunk. It's not a bad idea.

I'd rather have 2 12's over the 15, just for cone area.

An 18 on 2k and 2 12's on 4k is about the same thing, right?

Biggest alt you can find, big 3, and a d3100 in the back. Call it a day at that.

I think it will take more than just one XS Power D3100 to keep his voltage nice. Just my .02

It will be plenty. I was recommended by the people at xs that I only needed a d3100 in the back and a d2700 up front with my 260 amp alternator. I also have close to 8000 watts rms pumping.

The d3100 also says that it is recommended for power applications 4000/5000 watts rms. This is for daily driving and if you wanted to compete more may be needed depending on whether you can have your car on or off.

Keep in mind by adding additional batteries (that are not needed) you would also be putting more of a load on your alternator for no reason.

If it dosent work out you can always buy another. Why spend more on another battery when it is not necessary.

What about 1500W @ 2ohms? How many alt & batts would I need for that and a 600ish watt component amp? I've always wanted to use my Eclipse SW8200's sealed, but I doubt it'll be as loud. I've tried them sharing 750w and it wasn't as loud as my XXX but went a lot deeper. I might just try that.

What about 1500W @ 2ohms? How many alt & batts would I need for that and a 600ish watt component amp? I've always wanted to use my Eclipse SW8200's sealed, but I doubt it'll be as loud. I've tried them sharing 750w and it wasn't as loud as my XXX but went a lot deeper. I might just try that.

Here are some good alt companies. Call or email them and get a quote. You might as well get the largest since you are talkin big plans. They can be pricey.

mechman

dcpower

ohio

Does it matter how much space the woofer has from the sides of the box? I like to use 1" MDF and 1" spacing but this 18" idea will require .75" mdf and no spacing. 18.5+1.5 mdf = max. 20" height, good idea, just, that's soooo much work to the reardeck. If you cut up a rear deck will the car be all flimsy?