Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Really? I have never heard of that. I will have to try that in my own install.

The main problem with the way these speakers are installed is that we made it so they cannot handle the power. It got to the point where the speaker started to smell like an electrical burn. Josh said he is going to try them out and see how he likes them and go from there.

fixed for reality

I dont understand where you are coming from with this. We changed everything around and then tested the power handling. I dont know if you knew this or not.

If you did could you please enlighten us on how to fix the speaker installation so they will be able to handle more power.

The main problem with the way these speakers are installed is that we made it so they cannot handle the power. It got to the point where the speaker started to smell like an electrical burn. Josh said he is going to try them out and see how he likes them and go from there.

fixed for reality

I dont understand where you are coming from with this. We changed everything around and then tested the power handling. I dont know if you knew this or not.

If you did could you please enlighten us on how to fix the speaker installation so they will be able to handle more power.

I believe his point was that once the doors are properly deadened and sealed the speakers may not need as much power to reach an acceptable volume level.

Yes, deadening, appropriate use of crossovers, eq, and phasing are all required.

I'm going to get 50 square feet of Fat Mat, has anyone used it and is 50 ft enough to do 4 doors and the rear hatch on a jeep gcl?

Get that fatmat garbage out of here. That is going to just peel off and melt off in the summer ahahha.

http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=60

That will be enough to do all 4 doors, the rear hatch and then some.

Stop in a Sound Deadener Showdown before buying anything. There is a link in my sig

Stop in a Sound Deadener Showdown before buying anything. There is a link in my sig

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing.

I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

Stop in a Sound Deadener Showdown before buying anything. There is a link in my sig

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing.

I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

Something VERY similar, although superior.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

Stop in a Sound Deadener Showdown before buying anything. There is a link in my sig

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing.

I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

Something VERY similar, although superior.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

Interesting. I was looking at these myself. I did not believe that they worked that well. So how would we deaden near the speaker?

Stop in a Sound Deadener Showdown before buying anything. There is a link in my sig

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing.

I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

Something VERY similar, although superior.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld

Interesting. I was looking at these myself. I did not believe that they worked that well. So how would we deaden near the speaker?

Huh? Why wouldn't they work well? Definitely superior to other options on the market.

As for how you deaden near the speaker it is exactly the same as how you deaden any panel. You peel it off and stick it on.

So this stuff says there is no need to deaden the entire panel. You only have to deaden the areas where resonance occurs and that will take care of the entire door?

This will not take care of the road noise however correct? It only takes into account speaker resonance?

Never mind. I was looking at the picture completely wrong ahahha. They are 6"x10" pieces. So just cover the areas where vibration is present, around the speaker and at the center of the door and call it a day

Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Really? I have never heard of that. I will have to try that in my own install.

I will have to try that too. but, so far, I love how my speakers sound !!!

Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Does it matter which side you switch?

Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Does it matter which side you switch?

I would try every iteration. Not just the pair, but the independent drivers. (ie each tweeter and each mid and every possible combination)

Oh and as for the pos/neg. Just an FYI, I have NEVER had an install where I used the normal phasing on all drivers. It has always sounded better switching one of them.

Not saying that it couldn't be the case the other way around, just never in one of my installs.

Does it matter which side you switch?

I would try every iteration. Not just the pair, but the independent drivers. (ie each tweeter and each mid and every possible combination)

Will do. Thanks!

I just went for a ride and my speakers kept popping at higher volumes, everything is set at the same levels it was originally set to. So I think i need a set that can handle more power.

I just went for a ride and my speakers kept popping at higher volumes, everything is set at the same levels it was originally set to. So I think i need a set that can handle more power.

Have you read any of the thread above? Done any adjustments to your install?

So far you complain about popping, we tell you how to fix it, but you don't listen and just want to buy another component set and have the same problem.

I just went for a ride and my speakers kept popping at higher volumes, everything is set at the same levels it was originally set to. So I think i need a set that can handle more power.

Have you read any of the thread above? Done any adjustments to your install?

So far you complain about popping, we tell you how to fix it, but you don't listen and just want to buy another component set and have the same problem.

Weve done everything you guys have suggested and it hasnt fixed the problems, Im not gonna buy sound deadening if the speakers still cant handle any power. Ive tried everything else, I appreciate the help, but it hasnt worked.

Well fuck it if you think speakers with more power will help then go for what you know, kinda pointless to ask for help and not use it wisely. These guys know what they are talking about, if they say you need deadening then get it because eventually your gonna need it anyway. But good luck

*Oh yeah the power levels of a speaker dont determine jack shit, so buying speakers with more power does not guarantee to you will be louder at all.

Well fuck it if you think speakers with more power will help then go for what you know, kinda pointless to ask for help and not use it wisely. These guys know what they are talking about, if they say you need deadening then get it because eventually your gonna need it anyway. But good luck

*Oh yeah the power levels of a speaker dont determine jack shit, so buying speakers with more power does not guarantee to you will be louder at all.

He said he isnt worried about the lack of power. He already knows this. The lack of midbass is the problem. The speaker is bottoming out. Increasing the high pass filter just means that the speakers cannot handle lower frequencies. There is only a maximum of 100 watts rms going to those which is underrated, the filter is set to 100 hz, and the eq is set to flat. There should be no reason for the speaker to be bottoming out like that deadened or not. Deadening will help but not completely.

Josh just texted me and told me that he is going to buy the deadener along with the components.

Another thing to think about is either raising his budget for a better set of components but some will tell you that it will be hard to find the mid-bass he is looking for in a 6.5" speaker also (not saying that cant do it but a bigger midbass speaker would help with the lack of midbass). What is he looking for from his midbass speakers, just louder midbass?