Are there any premade subwoofer enclosures that are available online to buy that would fit the Fi BTL "15 perfectly?

Well not really tuned towards it, most pre-fab boxes. If they are ported are usually tuned pretty high 45-55hz. Which would work to an extent, but why are you buying a BTL if you are asking this question.

I honestly know nothing about subwoofer enclosures. I bought Polk Audio's db1222 dual 12" subs that came in a ported box. Now I want something better. I have my eyes set on Fi's 15" BTL, but I don't know what to put it in.

Well your first problem, is that it's a 2000rms woofer. Thus your going to need an electrical system to back up your power consumption of your amp or amps. This usually means, a new High Output alternator, and some batteries.

Wow, okay. What would you recommend to get in order to keep the sub running? The amp I had in mind to power the sub is a Pioneer Premier PRS-D2000SPL.

Wow, okay. What would you recommend to get in order to keep the sub running? The amp I had in mind to power the sub is a Pioneer Premier PRS-D2000SPL.

Welcome and glad you could join us . Your gonna need to find someone who can help you build a box (we can help you one here) or get one built locally by somebody or a company on here who builds them. Your gonna need to do the Big 3 Wiring in your car, your gonna need a battery to add in your trunk, your gonna need an HO Alternator. What size alternator is in your car now? Will you have any other amps in the car? Your gonna need lots of 1/0AWG wire (either weldingsupply.com or knukonceptz.com).

haha this was me a couple months ago

minus the polks and pioneer amp

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by mbarber25

Right now my car is wired with a 4g Rockford Fosgate wiring kit (or at least I'm pretty sure it was). I have a Toyota Corolla 1994 DX with a stock alternator. Same goes for the battery. What would you recommend I buy in order to have the Pioneer amp function with the 15" BTL?

EDIT: I would pay for someone here to build me a box, seeing as Novato California has no place within 30 miles that does any car audio (except for Best Buy which doesn't do subwoofer enclosures).

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by Se7eN

you're going to need to upgrade that wiring to 1/0 and do the big 3 in 1/0 as well first.

and yea you'll probably need a HO alternator but i could be wrong

can u give a price range for amp? there's a lot of possibilities so it'll be easier to narrow down

also a price range for batteries?

Right now my car is wired with a 4g Rockford Fosgate wiring kit (or at least I'm pretty sure it was). I have a Toyota Corolla 1994 DX with a stock alternator. Same goes for the battery. What would you recommend I buy in order to have the Pioneer amp function with the 15" BTL?

EDIT: I would pay for someone here to build me a box, seeing as Novato California has no place within 30 miles that does any car audio (except for Best Buy which doesn't do subwoofer enclosures).

Did you read my post and see what i said you will need? A budget would help also.

Yeah, I read your post. My apologies, I didn't quite clarify myself very well. I meant to say what specifically do you recommend I buy? For example, what is an exact name, brand, and model of an alternator that would be able to keep up with the power? Same goes for the battery.

ok so check out these names for alternators:

-dc power inc, iraggi, mechman

these names for batteries

-xs power, deka (model 9A31H specifically), kinetik

there's more obviously but those are the top names in my head atleast. someone else will suggest more if they feel it's necessary

any other q's?

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by mbarber25

For Alternators: Iraggi, DC Power, Mechman and Ohio just to name some

For Batteries: Stinger, Deka, Shuriken, XS Power, Kinetik just to name some

Now when it comes to exact numbers it depends. what alternators are made for your car and what battery size you need to go with it. Try finding out how many amps your factory alt puts out then we can go from there. You should also start seeing what size alternators these companies make for your car.

So it looks like I need to do even more research for my car stereo. Wow. Hahaha, well I'm not sure how to look into this part of the system. Where and how can I learn about this stuff?

haha

you have noooo idea how much there is to learn. it's not just getting a badass sub and amp... there's a lot that goes with it

time, money, dedication, and most important; knowledge.

but lucky for you.... you found the SSA forum

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by mbarber25

So it looks like I need to do even more research for my car stereo. Wow. Hahaha, well I'm not sure how to look into this part of the system. Where and how can I learn about this stuff?

To find your car's amp output, either look online for it (you could go to parts stores on here and see what they are selling for a factory amp for your car) or call the dealership. It shouldnt be that hard to find, some ho alternator companies actually know what these stock cars have since they replace them and deal with them. I call mechman I believe and he was able to give me background information on my alternator and told me it was underrated by 10-15amps, so the answers are out there.

Exactly. Hahaha.

I've wanted to learn about car electronics and installing tons of accessories to my car (meaning that my stereo isn't the only aftermarket mod I have done to my car), but it's all so hard to learn. I've done a lot of research on car audio, but nothing involving installation. I just know most terms and how to match up amps with speakers/subs.

EDIT: Is this a legitimate search engine for my car? http://www.partstrain.com/store/index.php?VN=4294967264+4294967152+4294967003+4294967060+4294966998&Nr=AND(universal:0)&N=0&Ntt=Alternator

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by Se7eN

Wow, okay. What would you recommend to get in order to keep the sub running? The amp I had in mind to power the sub is a Pioneer Premier PRS-D2000SPL.

You dont need top of the line electrical system for 1 btl, u might need a strong capacitor possibly an extra battery but u dont need to get all that stuff for it, i have a 15" btl fully loaded on a hifonics brutus 20100, 2000rms, and no extras and my battery gage is fine, i am getting an extra battery just so it takes strain off the alternator but u dont NEED it.

Wow, okay. What would you recommend to get in order to keep the sub running? The amp I had in mind to power the sub is a Pioneer Premier PRS-D2000SPL.

You dont need top of the line electrical system for 1 btl, u might need a strong capacitor possibly an extra battery but u dont need to get all that stuff for it, i have a 15" btl fully loaded on a hifonics brutus 20100, 2000rms, and no extras and my battery gage is fine, i am getting an extra battery just so it takes strain off the alternator but u dont NEED it.

Caps arent good if you dont have the power to start with and adding another battery puts a strain on the alternator also (thats more charging it has to do).

Well I have a Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Digital Capacitor already installed in my stereo, but the lights actually still dim when I slap stuff with my 720 rms subs (800 rms amp).

Well I have a Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Digital Capacitor already installed in my stereo, but the lights actually still dim when I slap stuff with my 720 rms subs (800 rms amp).

You need to invest in a voltmeter to be able to watch your voltage also so you can know if your harming your system or electrical on your car. I would recommend that you sell that cap and do the Big 3 asap. Just my .02

Well I have a Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Digital Capacitor already installed in my stereo, but the lights actually still dim when I slap stuff with my 720 rms subs (800 rms amp).

capacitors really don't help voltage at all.. but that's a whole nother discussion

but what do u mean 720 rms subs? and (800 rms amp)

subs dont make power. only take it ---> from the amp.

and yes do what jay-cee said and do the big 3... you HAVE to no matter what since you're going to be running 2,000 watts

Edited January 4, 201015 yr by mbarber25

but what do u mean 720 rms subs? and (800 rms amp)

subs dont make power. only take it ---> from the amp.

and yes do what jay-cee said and do the big 3... you HAVE to no matter what since you're going to be running 2,000 watts

That's what I meant- 800w amp for the subs (and I have an additional 100w amp for the rear speakers). The amp runs 2400 watts peak at 1 ohm, but it's runnning 2 ohms stable at 800 watts rms for the subs.

never go off of an amp's "peak" power. never ever.

I'm not going by peak. Never do never will. I just stated it because I don't know if that affects the voltage it pulls from the battery or alternator (obviously I have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to the 'Big 3').