I've been meaning to ask if there were any negatives besides the extra weight in running separate boxes? I may stack the t-lines for 4 - sa 8's.

On Termpak design software, graphs on a dual common chamber application appear to be louder.

As long as the distance between the subs isn't greater than the diameter of one voice coil.

i.e.~ if the subs have a 3" voice coil, then keep the distance between the subs 3" or less.

Personal experience of mine being is that as long as I have pairs, I design dual common chambers. (ported of course)

At least to the ear they seem a lot more defined and louder.

Another plus is that it actually cuts down on the space used inside the vehicle.

I try to keep port velocity below 5.5% to reduce port noise. (huffing sound)

Keeping that in mind, the port areas are generally large.

Now if you set up a design for four/six/eight subs, the design will be a grouping of dual common chambers.

These will share a side panel or build two mirror enclosures and glue and screw them together.

I wouldn't do a dual common chamber set up if you're running individual amps to each sub.

Only if the two subs share the same amp, like a monoblock.

Reason being is if one sub has a failure then the other sub will not perform correctly and could/ probably will,

destroy either the non active sub or both.

This is what I've noticed over many years of building and re building enclosures.

Not really knowing all the science behind it, I just take it for what it is...LOL

Hope this helps!

Decisions, decisions, decisions I'm trying to decide between 4-SA10's or 3-SA12's in 4-4.5cu on either another SAZ-1500D strapped, a SAZ-2500D or SAZ-3500D The 8-SA8's could still be in the mix if I went with the minimal airspace requirements (.6cu each or 4.8cu net) but I'm really liking the thought of 10's. The issue I have with the 8's is that all 8 would need to be purchased since the 4 I have are D2's. Whatever input anyone has is welcomed.

Hawk sub should be playing again shortly. Hawk when is the 3 month by back date? I got a PWK design and have almost completed the build. Photos to follow. After I've completed testing I'll decide if I'm going to double up on the 8's and run 4 or the 15 for comps. I'm trying to stay in MECA AS1 or 2 and DB 1-2. I added another fuse block and ordered some 30's and 40's we'll see what I can get away with.

My goal is 146 db. I hope it isn't unrealistic on one saz 1500. This should be a solid starting point for a move into the street class when I have to.

My goal is 146 db. I hope it isn't unrealistic on one saz 1500. This should be a solid starting point for a move into the street class when I have to.

nope, Very reasonable if you tune to your cars peak note and have an efficient box.

Soapbox , I don't remember the date but go ahead and keep the sub... I mean you have taken the time to have a sweet box designed for it... I think that you should be close to that score...

Damn, nobody gets online anymore now that the weather is nice....LOL!

Damn, nobody gets online anymore now that the weather is nice....LOL!

im here lol

What's happenin? I see you got some plans for a new build

buddy if i had the money to do this right now it would be baddest build on here. but i dont so

right now im just buying things as i can. i dont even have the car yet.

i bought a 1500d for my truck so i can put the 3k away for this build

I feel ya on the funds bro I'm hoping to get some team pricing info in the next couple days on a bunch of Sundown stuff. Not sure of what I can do and how soon it could be done until I get the prices

I'm off to Buffalo Wild Wings for 45cent wing tues.

Damn, nobody gets online anymore now that the weather is nice....LOL!

Dude the weather here is horrible..for the last month or so its been extremely hot or raining. 2012 is realistic with these temperatures going on.

I blew my tweeters last night. I need some recommendations on a set to match the hertz 165's. I have the gain turned down to around 1/8 power and they were suppose to handle 100 rms. Hawk let me know if you would like it back I think I want to try something that is a proven 150+ capable. I'll know soon enough if this is capable when I go to use my friends therm he has 2 aq 3500's . The pap is loud and my box is efficient. I did get my doors deadened too.

I blew my tweeters last night. I need some recommendations on a set to match the hertz 165's. I have the gain turned down to around 1/8 power and they were suppose to handle 100 rms. Hawk let me know if you would like it back I think I want to try something that is a proven 150+ capable. I'll know soon enough if this is capable when I go to use my friends therm he has 2 aq 3500's . The pap is loud and my box is efficient. I did get my doors deadened too.

I've got to get to the meter after I posted I farted around and took out the t-line and deadened the wheel well and positioned the pap and added another battery. This thing feels like it's going to cause some damage to my car. Before I had subs back and port back now I have sub up and port to the passenger side. I can feel the air movement a lot more.

Sweet, So your saying the 15 might work out for you then?

Sold my 4 SA8's today and should be purchasing 4 of the SA10's within the next few weeks along with another SAZ-1500D to strap on em

Why dont you just get 1 or 2 18's? You have the room for atleast 2 15's i know that.

Why dont you just get 1 or 2 18's? You have the room for atleast 2 15's i know that.

I think he's trying to go below the window line.

Unless he loses the rear seat 2~15's wouldn't be an option unless they were sealed.

You got it Jason I've got 4 kids, so losing the back seat isn't an option for me I can get more cone area with 4-10's as well

Jury is in from the TL testing for the PAP SPL 15” I got from HAWK. Current set up is as follows.

2008 Honda Fit. Big 3 in knuflex. Stock Alt. 80amp. And 2 yellowtops for a total of 93 amp hrs. Voltage dropped to 11 from 14.

Stock Head unit ran through an Audio Control LC6i (high to low converter with a 6 volt out). Amps consist of an SAX 100.4 and SAZ 15000 both Sundown. Front stage are Hertz energy 165 comps with HSK tweeters. Rear are Zapco coaxial. I have deadned all 4 doors with 2 layers of fat mat. I still need to do the roof, hatch and floor.

Car’s peak is 54hz from previous testing and therefore is what the current enclosure was designed to peak at. Box design is a simple 2 cuft net PWK. This design models with very small rise. Previous score in another enclosure was 134 db(meca) using 3 sundown SA8’s in a 1.8cuft enclosure. This ended up being a poor design. I was having loading problems between the subs and a lot of port restriction. While at the time I wasn’t in the market for a PAP sub I ended up with a sweet deal.

So at this point my goal is 146db which is a record in my class AS2 MECA.

Testing today yielded 142.9 which places me 3rd in Meca scores for my class; however is still short of the 146 I want!

So I gained 8.9 db with the PAP. Cool Pork and Beans. But I’m still short by 3.1db.

At this point I am going to build and test 3-4 more boxes but I am unsure of which way to go to gain these sneaky db’s. Not only are they sneaky little buggers I think they have camo on too.

Money is tight for a couple of months sometime in September I plan to upgrade the alt to the biggest one I can find which happens to be 180. If you have any suggestions on the new designs please don’t keep them to yourself. I realize I can double the power for the 3 db but I would like to obtain them with efficiency prior to doubling power (long range goal after getting the alt).

I suppose I should talk to Porkchop and join the team if I keep at this. I haven't yet because I didn't know how much I time I was going to devote to Comps. I'm in to deep now to turn around.

I'm having a rediculous amount of engine whine coming through my system out of no where I've checked all my grounds that I can from the front to the back along with swapping RCA's, amps, and taking all door panels off to look for any speaker wire being pinched or tore. Nothing changes the noise for the better or gets it worse. I've only had limited time with trying to diagnose this just because of my work schedule and I don't have another day off till tues next week.. ...FTL! Jason has given me some ideas and I'm working on approaching those but if anyone else has something to offer, throw it out there Thanks in advance to everyone.

u got any jumper cables?

Quick test is to take one clamp and hook it to your amp's ground location.

Take the other end of that cable and hook it up to your battery's negative terminal

See if that fixes it.. if it doesn't, it's not your ground which would point toward signal cable location.

My ground wire from the front battery to my secondary is the only ground in the rear of the vehicle right now. If I touch another piece of wire from the rear battery to a ground location it diminishes the sound greatly but doesn't completely remove it. I may just go ahead and make another ground in the rear to see what help if any that may have overall. Thanks for the quick reply Shizzon BTW-I don't have any jumper cables right now to try your suggestion. I'm off to work for the night, I'll be trying a couple of these fixes tomorrow morning when I get home.

Sorry to hear you're having noise troubles, they always seem to be a pain to track down. I know I hate doing it. Thought I'd jump into the IHOP and say hi to everyone. I'm still working on finishing the van so that I can start on the Jimmy. We've run into some mechanical trouble with it which is why it's still not complete. Having to spend all my time and money getting the mechanical troubles fixed first so we can drive it. I did get the Hifonics gear removed and sold, so that's a plus. See you guys around.

So, I ran another ground and disconnected the power/ground run from the front to rear battery to see if it may have been the problem. Basically I powered the 50.4 off the rear battery and still got the noise. Another problem has been found though while I've been checking wiring throughout the vehicle. My harness from the Kenwood to my factory harness seems to have a bad/loose connection and causes the right rear speaker to occasionally cut out. I'll be purchasing another harness within the next day or two to fix this problem and pray that it could be the solution for everything....wish me luck