Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery.

Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost.

Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

Edited April 11, 201015 yr by Dpaw37

Those Knu batt terminals are about all your going to find with 3 0 gauge inputs. Unless you know a machinest who could make you some. Otherwise your kind of sol, unless you can find some that take ring terminals.

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery.

Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost.

Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on...

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery.

Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost.

Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on...

so your saying it would be a waste of money to spend over 50 dollars on terminals when I could probably spend less than 20 at autozone? As long as quality isn't sacrificed I'm fine.

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery.

Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost.

Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on...

so your saying it would be a waste of money to spend over 50 dollars on terminals when I could probably spend less than 20 at autozone? As long as quality isn't sacrificed I'm fine.

Yes for the most part, just make sure the connections stay tight and don't come loose from vibrations.

Just bought a Optima red top for a starter battery and a Shuriken BT100 for the trunk. Never upgraded my electrical before, in fact I will doing big 3 for the first time as well. Which brings me to my confusion. With all the 0 gauge wiring why do all the terminals I see for sale have only one 0 gauge input and then a 2/4 and 8's? I see kukonceptz has a triple 0 gauge terminal that is compatible up to 4 gauge but Im not sure if I will need anything higher for my positive terminal on the hood battery.

Also, will I need terminals for the rear battery? Trying to get what I need and get it cheap without being crappy Pretty much what anyone wants to do. Would really appreciate some help here I'm lost.

Btw, running a RD 1750.1D at .5ohms doing 2500 to a 12" Treo SSX. Got all kolossus 0 gauge power and ground from kukonceptz.

I just use marine grade battery posts from autozone. They are like $3.99 a pair. They have threaded studs on the top to accept ring terminals. They also tighten down with a wing nut so you don't have to have any tools to connect or disconnect anything once the terminals are on...

so your saying it would be a waste of money to spend over 50 dollars on terminals when I could probably spend less than 20 at autozone? As long as quality isn't sacrificed I'm fine.

Yeah, the connection will be really good as long as you get the terminals crimped on and not crushed on using a vise. I used to be a ac and dc ship electrician. So, I dealt with ring terminals and 50 foot runs of 4/0 everyday. I can promise you if they are crimped on right, they will not want to ever come apart

These are what I'm talking about.

So I'd put the ring terminals on the threaded studs and, crimp, them on. I'm guessing by that you mean just don't over torque them?

Honestly this is how I imagined it would be in the first place till seeing so many systems with audio specific terminals...so yeah screw paying another 65 bucks I'm going this route! Thanks man saved me a bunch.

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Yeah I've also come to the conclusion that they suck.

I use those same terminals and got them from Autozone.

I bought a set of Kukonceptz Konfused trying to make it all pretty like and they were pure shit. Total waste of money.

Like mr.sagat said above get the marine grade terminals from the parts store. They work perfectly.

I solder my terminals on.

Glad I saw this thread, are the knukonceptz distribution blocks bad too? I was going to order one of those with the volt gauge on it when they get in stock.

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Yeah I've also come to the conclusion that they suck.

So what don't you guys like about them? Compression fitting? Or don't they tighten enough around the post?

You strip about 3/4 of an inch of insulation off the cable. You put the bare cable into the ring terminal. You then crimp the mess out of it! LOL The ring terminal has a hole in it, you then put the stud from the battery terminal through the terminal ring. Here's a few pics for you that I've done myself. That is a stud on the back of my alt, and I used a ring terminal to connect to it. The same principal applies to the studs on the battery terminal.

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Yeah I've also come to the conclusion that they suck.

So what don't you guys like about them? Compression fitting? Or don't they tighten enough around the post?

They dont tighten up on the post and if you try to give it half turn more it strips.

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Yeah I've also come to the conclusion that they suck.

So what don't you guys like about them? Compression fitting? Or don't they tighten enough around the post?

They dont tighten up on the post and if you try to give it half turn more it strips.

Good to know! Thanks you just saved me $40!

Do not buy the knukonceptz terminals. I and a few other dudes on here have had terrible luck with these things. try em if you want but im just trying to save you a few bucks. i dont know anybody yet that had good luck with them.

Yeah I've also come to the conclusion that they suck.

So what don't you guys like about them? Compression fitting? Or don't they tighten enough around the post?

The compression fitting is poorly designed...seems you can't get it tight enough without potentially stripping the threads out. Then there's the allen screw to tighten to the post on the battery, and I noticed that on shakes deka it's somewhat loose at it's tightest setting.

Good info guys I really appreciate it. This system is really starting to add up. I'm at 1500 right now and that's after everything. Ganna sound nice.

But thank you for the pics btw good stuff I always do better with a visual aid. As far as kukonceptz though I bought about $160 worth of amp installation accessories (kolossus 0 gauge and mkt rca's) and I've heard they make quality stuff. Discouraging to hear one of their products is so shitty though, cept every line has it's flaws.

Yeah, their battery terminals seem to be made of a really cheap metal. So who knows. They sure look pretty though.

Nobody ever answered my question. Has anyone used their distribution blocks? Do they suck too? I was planning on ordering the one with the gauge on it when they get back in stock. I ordered some cables from them today and would have got one had they been in stock.

Yeah they work since nobody spoke on them, if your that worried about them then get some other ones (it wont hurt if there not KnuKonceptz Distribution Blocks). My distribution blocks are made by Street Wires and work perfectly.

I like either of these for battery terminals.

xscorpian

Kicker has a nice dual 0 gauge ground block.

Nobody ever answered my question. Has anyone used their distribution blocks? Do they suck too? I was planning on ordering the one with the gauge on it when they get back in stock. I ordered some cables from them today and would have got one had they been in stock.

I am using one of their distribution blocks and is fine. It's the one with single in and dual compression fittings out and I have no problems with it.

Kicker has a nice dual 0 gauge ground block.

Thanks for the info, I hadn't seen those before, I found some on ebay from Sonic Electronix for $12.99 a piece and free shipping. I ordered two.

Glad I saw this thread, are the knukonceptz distribution blocks bad too? I was going to order one of those with the volt gauge on it when they get in stock.

I placed a fairly decent sized order of distribution blocks (fused and unfused) from them a couple years ago. I'll never purchase them again.

Kompression fittings suck ass (at least on the 0/1ga terminal that I have)...not only was the wire nearly impossible to get seated tightly, but the Kompression nut was taller than the block itself so when trying to tighten/loosen to the Kompression fitting it would scrape and get hung up on the bottom plate which was a PITA. One of the fused blocks arrived broken and was obviously damaged in manufacturing (screw tightened too tightly which broke the plastic bottom), which indicates to me poor QC. The set screws on the unfused block where slightly cockeyed....works fine, just looks like poor QC.

That said Knu's customer service was honestly great. When I told him one of the blocks arrived broken I had a replacement in my hands 2 days later, no questions asked (though I did provide pictures in the email). So I don't dislike the company, just the products I've used from them.

I melted the shit out of a konfused 1/0 distro. block from the screw on the bottom grounding out. Could have easily burned my car to the ground. Fuck that and fuck compression fittings.