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  • poundindak69
    poundindak69

  • poundindak69
    poundindak69

    some more from tonight, should have the box together tomorrow morning before i have to head to work. but idk yet.

  • poundindak69
    poundindak69

    more progress today. wiring them up and there big brother stopped by mounting the amp wiring the sub up subs in . sealed on the dash at 40hz!!! amp gain at zero subs back out to add a litt

Just lookin' around, nice setup! One small problem I spotted is your box doesn't look very sealed. Try either a good marine silicone or fiberglassing the inside of your box. Just use the resin and hardener and not the cloth. Especially where the angled parts of wood are. Also you need to add more bracing behind the subs. Try using 1" mdf to mount the subs onto. If you fiberglass the box it'll stiffen it up quite a bit. Also How the Hell you get that box in your car. Damn that thing is huge! No. 2 - You don't have enough room behind your subs. Hope this helps, and when building a box with that much power ; make sure the front is at least 1" thick and the sides at least 3/4" - always glue then screw the wood. Good Luck! :noob:

Oh Yeah! The wise old bass junkie says " When in doubt go with the more powerful amp and biggest wires possible. " When working on a system/ sub box just make sure you build it to manufacturers specs. More port area does NOT make the subs louder! Too much and you can blow your pretty little speakers. :noob: s

Heck, us poor working-class folk can't afford new subs every week.

Edited by Kill a what

Just lookin' around, nice setup! One small problem I spotted is your box doesn't look very sealed. Try either a good marine silicone or fiberglassing the inside of your box. Just use the resin and hardener and not the cloth. Especially where the angled parts of wood are. Also you need to add more bracing behind the subs. Try using 1" mdf to mount the subs onto. If you fiberglass the box it'll stiffen it up quite a bit. Also How the Hell you get that box in your car. Damn that thing is huge! No. 2 - You don't have enough room behind your subs. Hope this helps, and when building a box with that much power ; make sure the front is at least 1" thick and the sides at least 3/4" - always glue then screw the wood. Good Luck! :noob:

Remember all the panels are bracing, and he has plenty. Transmission line enclosure is supposed to be like that.

Oh Yeah! The wise old bass junkie says " When in doubt go with the more powerful amp and biggest wires possible. " When working on a system/ sub box just make sure you build it to manufacturers specs. More port area does NOT make the subs louder! Too much and you can blow your pretty little speakers. :noob: s

Heck, us poor working-class folk can't afford new subs every week.

Port area doesn't kill subs, to much airspace in the enclosure makes mechanical failure more likely though.

Oh Yeah! The wise old bass junkie says " When in doubt go with the more powerful amp and biggest wires possible. " When working on a system/ sub box just make sure you build it to manufacturers specs. More port area does NOT make the subs louder! Too much and you can blow your pretty little speakers. :noob: s

Heck, us poor working-class folk can't afford new subs every week.

I know I cant afford a new amp every week...

heres one i came up with, would be 6 cubes ported at 32hz with 4 pvc pipes. and with subs and ports in i have .9 of a cube to add as much bracing as i need.

Untitled-4.png

hey, awesome build, looks complicated lol, good luck. but i liked this idea in the above picture, 2 subs on bottom and 2 on the angle?

  • Author

heres one i came up with, would be 6 cubes ported at 32hz with 4 pvc pipes. and with subs and ports in i have .9 of a cube to add as much bracing as i need.

Untitled-4.png

hey, awesome build, looks complicated lol, good luck. but i liked this idea in the above picture, 2 subs on bottom and 2 on the angle?

thanks man for the kind words, this build has changed directions so many times it not funny :P.

  • Author

sad day for the neon, it overheated yesterday on the way home and now has a blown head gasket or cracked head :(.

Samething with mine. Thermostat locked, over heated, and goodbye headgasket. It is a known issue for these. When I did mine 9 years ago the gasket kit alone cost me $189, then another $200 in labor to have it done. Maybe you have some mechanical skills and can do it your self. The main to worry about is the Head, Hopefully it did't warp.

  • Author

Samething with mine. Thermostat locked, over heated, and goodbye headgasket. It is a known issue for these. When I did mine 9 years ago the gasket kit alone cost me $189, then another $200 in labor to have it done. Maybe you have some mechanical skills and can do it your self. The main to worry about is the Head, Hopefully it did't warp.

yeah, the quite a bit and i do have some mechanical skills and ill get help from my dad. but idk whats wrong with it untill we get it sunday and then were prolyl not going to look at it until tuesday at the earliest. so the build is on hold fro now.

  • Admin

Here are some pics of one of my first builds from the late 90's.... I was able to hit 148.6 off of 1000 rms from the Phoenix Gold M100's......

neonbuild.jpg

neonbuild2.jpg

neonbuild3.jpg

You know I love those amps.

  • Admin

sad day for the neon, it overheated yesterday on the way home and now has a blown head gasket or cracked head :(.

:ohnoes9: :ohnoes9:

  • Author

sad day for the neon, it overheated yesterday on the way home and now has a blown head gasket or cracked head :(.

:ohnoes9: :ohnoes9:

yeppers, went and looked at a honda civic hybird today. just waitng for the loan then going to sign for it.

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