Last week my CDA-9886 started doing this thing where, from what I've noticed, at high volumes it will just restart in the middle of a song and keep restarting unless I turn it down.

Running 1 Treo SSX 12 powered by an RD 1750.1D at .5 ohms for 2500 watts. Got a nice wal mart bat up front with 800 cca and a shuriken bt100 in the back, big 3 and all 0 gauge of course. Talked to the guy who's sold me RD stuff before and he said if it were the amp it wouldn't making the HU restart like that...which I pretty much knew.

From what I gathered it's either a loose wire or worse, the HU isn't getting enough amps because of a shitty power cord to it... just wanted to get some opinions and see if anyone else has had this problem which I find pretty wierd.

Forgot to mention what I'm driving. A 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited that came with infinity sound system.

Edited May 15, 201015 yr by Dpaw37

Is this playing CD's or iPod?

And I don't think that 1750 is doing 2500.....

Is this playing CD's or iPod?

And I don't think that 1750 is doing 2500.....

It's playing Ipod but I have tried it while on radio/tuner and it did it once.

Curious why you don't think I'm doing 2500 watts though. I don't understand why everyone has negative things to say about RD.

Because RD isn't a respected company, what do you expect? That's like nominating my local crack dealer for president because I think he sells a good product.

I'm curious to see how you think it actually outputs 2500 watts?

well.. if u think it's a loose wire, pull the deck out and inspect.

Because RD isn't a respected company, what do you expect? That's like nominating my local crack dealer for president because I think he sells a good product.

I'm curious to see how you think it actually outputs 2500 watts?

In all honesty, accounting for the fact it is running at .5 ohms, realisticly I went over just to make sure I'm getting at least the 2000 recommended watts. Got a clearance price on the amp for $325 brand new and it's performing flawlessly...just as my 1000.1 did and still does in my brothers car for 2 years now. So, maybe you can see where I'm comming from. In my experience in car audio and on other forums I've never heard RD talked bad about besides this forum which is why I was confused.

Edited May 16, 201015 yr by Dpaw37

well.. if u think it's a loose wire, pull the deck out and inspect.

Can't imgaine it being a loose wire though...was hoping to get more info on the power issue.

I do know that the cda-9886 has a large yellow contant power wire that is recommended to be hooked to the battery and NOT to the origianl factory harness. I don't see this causing your problem but you never know. Did you personally install this HU?

My guess would be a loose wire that's getting rattled or you're getting enough voltage drop that it's shutting down the HU.

My guess would be a loose wire that's getting rattled or you're getting enough voltage drop that it's shutting down the HU.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?)

Edited May 16, 201015 yr by Dpaw37

I do know that the cda-9886 has a large yellow contant power wire that is recommended to be hooked to the battery and NOT to the origianl factory harness. I don't see this causing your problem but you never know. Did you personally install this HU?

Interesting. Didn't know this.

I do know that the cda-9886 has a large yellow contant power wire that is recommended to be hooked to the battery and NOT to the origianl factory harness. I don't see this causing your problem but you never know. Did you personally install this HU?

Interesting. Didn't know this.

Read the manual.

My guess would be a loose wire that's getting rattled or you're getting enough voltage drop that it's shutting down the HU.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?)

You don't need to install one long term. A DMM would suffice to help you diagnose.

As for the power wire.....most of the manual's I've read recommend wiring the constant power wire directly to the battery.

My guess would be a loose wire that's getting rattled or you're getting enough voltage drop that it's shutting down the HU.

I'll rip it out and take a look. As for voltage, I've never checked it and am curious as to how I would install a voltmeter in the back (or front/both?)

You don't need to install one long term. A DMM would suffice to help you diagnose.

As for the power wire.....most of the manual's I've read recommend wiring the constant power wire directly to the battery.

Thanks man. Would it be ok to run just some 12 gauge speaker wire to the batt? Can't imagine the HU would need 8 gauge.

As long as the yellow wire coming off the HU is 12ga or smaller, your good. Honestly its more likely a loose conection and if you find that and fix it first you don't really need to worry about running a new wire.(unless you want to)