my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

Low voltage more than likely.

Have you tried to see how low the voltage drops when the lights flicker ?

It would be a good idea to do the big3 upgrade if you haven't done it yet.

Low voltage more than likely.

Have you tried to see how low the voltage drops when the lights flicker ?

It would be a good idea to do the big3 upgrade if you haven't done it yet.

AAH OK YES I NEED TO DO THE BIG 3.. NO I HAVE NOT CHECKED.. DO YOU THINK I SHOULD GET A HIGH VOLTAGE ALTERNATOR?? ALSO.. HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN WHEN IM RUNNING 2 BATTERIES AT 4 OHMS AKA 600-800 WATTS??

Low voltage more than likely.

Have you tried to see how low the voltage drops when the lights flicker ?

It would be a good idea to do the big3 upgrade if you haven't done it yet.

AAH OK YES I NEED TO DO THE BIG 3.. NO I HAVE NOT CHECKED.. DO YOU THINK I SHOULD GET A HIGH VOLTAGE ALTERNATOR?? ALSO.. HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN WHEN IM RUNNING 2 BATTERIES AT 4 OHMS AKA 600-800 WATTS??

do the big 3, install a voltmeter and watch the voltage and see how much its dropping. If your two batteries can't support the amp and your planning on running more power than i'd advise getting a high output alternator.

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

a few links that may help:

Charging systems

The Big 3

Battery Isolators

Sizing batteries to match your audio system

The ratio of power to volume explained

There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case.

Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded.

Good luck!

Edited May 24, 201015 yr by GlassWolf

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

a few links that may help:

Charging systems

The Big 3

Battery Isolators

Sizing batteries to match your audio system

The ratio of power to volume explained

There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case.

Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded.

Good luck!

AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then??

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

a few links that may help:

Charging systems

The Big 3

Battery Isolators

Sizing batteries to match your audio system

The ratio of power to volume explained

There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case.

Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded.

Good luck!

AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then??

As said up above do the big 3 upgrade and then check your voltage drop with a dmm and go from there...

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

a few links that may help:

Charging systems

The Big 3

Battery Isolators

Sizing batteries to match your audio system

The ratio of power to volume explained

There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case.

Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded.

Good luck!

AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then??

As said up above do the big 3 upgrade and then check your voltage drop with a dmm and go from there...

AH OK.. FOR THE BIG 3 I HAVE 4 GAUGE ROCKFORD FOSGATE POWER WIRE 20 FEET.. WOULD THAT WORK?.. OR SHOULD EVERYTHNG RUN IN 0 GAUGE?? I JUST DONT HAVE OVER 200 DOLLERS TO SPEND I LOOKED AROUND EBAY AND STINGER PRO O GAUGE IS SELLING FOR 3.75 A FOOT IF I GET 50 FEET OF THAT ITS OVER 200 DOLLERS..

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could be causing my lights to flicker?? low voltage?

a few links that may help:

Charging systems

The Big 3

Battery Isolators

Sizing batteries to match your audio system

The ratio of power to volume explained

There's no real way to tell the amount of power your amplifier is supplying based on the volume or bass knob, since a "1200 watt" amp is rated by the manufacturer with a resistive load on a test bench with a stable power supply and a full spectrum pink noise test tone input at full output, whereas you are using the amp with a dynamic input source, in a car cabin subject to factors like cabin gain and transfer function with a subwoofer that's a reactive, inductive load in a box subject to impedance rise, while the speaker itself varies in impedance based on the frequency it's producing, and where half the audible volume from full output is equal to a tenfold drop in power output, and so forth.. you get the idea. The actual power output of an amplifier in a car is typically nowhere even remotely near what it's rated power is on the amplifier case.

Also of note, you shouldn't really be relying on batteries to power the audio system when the engine is running. As long as your alternator puts out a higher voltage than the batteries, it's the alternator's job to supply current. If the alternator isn't large enough to accomplish this task, then it needs to be upgraded.

Good luck!

AAH OK im running 110 amps stock alternator. so should i get bigger alternator then??

As said up above do the big 3 upgrade and then check your voltage drop with a dmm and go from there...

AH OK.. FOR THE BIG 3 I HAVE 4 GAUGE ROCKFORD FOSGATE POWER WIRE 20 FEET.. WOULD THAT WORK?.. OR SHOULD EVERYTHNG RUN IN 0 GAUGE?? I JUST DONT HAVE OVER 200 DOLLERS TO SPEND I LOOKED AROUND EBAY AND STINGER PRO O GAUGE IS SELLING FOR 3.75 A FOOT IF I GET 50 FEET OF THAT ITS OVER 200 DOLLERS..

Why are you yelling?

yelling in double posts

look at welding supply.com for some wire if you're on a budget. but if you want to use your 4 gauge just to like 2-3 runs everywhere even one would be better than stock, but better to do it right the first time than have to go in and do it all over again if you do get 1/0 wire.

check Knukonceptz the CCA is very cheap and is very good.

I've been told to stay away from the cca stuff. When I did my install I bought a 50' roll for a little over 100 bucks. Found it on eBay. I just looked and found a 25' roll 50 bucks free shipping.

Darvex is a good place to find connectors and terminals. Excellent customer service as well

I've been told to stay away from the cca stuff. When I did my install I bought a 50' roll for a little over 100 bucks. Found it on eBay. I just looked and found a 25' roll 50 bucks free shipping.

Darvex is a good place to find connectors and terminals. Excellent customer service as well

There is nothing wrong with CCA, it can handle slightly less than fully copper i know the CCA from Knukonceptz can handle 300 amps, and the actual copper can handle 300+. but unless you're running extreme amounts of power, you're amplifier WILL not be pulling 300 amps constantly.

the downside to CCA it is slightly less flexiable when very cold. but i've used CCA for almost everything in my car.

Do the BIG 3! And quit yelling, were not deaf .... (Turn Caps Lock Off)

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

Edited May 25, 201015 yr by Turner

I've been told to stay away from the cca stuff. When I did my install I bought a 50' roll for a little over 100 bucks. Found it on eBay. I just looked and found a 25' roll 50 bucks free shipping.

Darvex is a good place to find connectors and terminals. Excellent customer service as well

There is nothing wrong with CCA, it can handle slightly less than fully copper i know the CCA from Knukonceptz can handle 300 amps, and the actual copper can handle 300+. but unless you're running extreme amounts of power, you're amplifier WILL not be pulling 300 amps constantly.

the downside to CCA it is slightly less flexiable when very cold. but i've used CCA for almost everything in my car.

awesome will def look into CCA i live in arizona so i dont think it will get cold anytime soon.. we are in summer.. 100+ degrees lol

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided

Why are you yelling?

becuase im a CAP whore...

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided

what? if you're ordering wire anyways why not get a couple extra feet of 1/0? it doesn't take much...what car are you putting it in, how far is your bat. from the alt?

if you're strapped for cash sell the 4 gauge on ebay the classifieds section if needed. i would buy extra 1/0 if you're ordering some anyways. but thats just me.

Do the BIG 3! And quit yelling, were not deaf .... (Turn Caps Lock Off)

you would if you heard my system.. expecially bumping to lil boosie LOL jk.. anyways thanks for the help guys.. appreciate it.. as you see my name is BASSnoob.

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided

what? if you're ordering wire anyways why not get a couple extra feet of 1/0? it doesn't take much...what car are you putting it in, how far is your bat. from the alt?

um battery from alternator is a good 5 feet.. but dont i also have to ground on engine block and ground on chasis?? id probably have to get like 40 feet..

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided

what? if you're ordering wire anyways why not get a couple extra feet of 1/0? it doesn't take much...what car are you putting it in, how far is your bat. from the alt?

the wiring is going into nissan altima 2005..

I don't really know much about the cca stuff. I'm sure 0ga cca would be better then 4ga.

The stuff I got was pretty stiff too but way cheaper then the high flex cable.

I was just browsing around on eBay and found some 16' and 18' pieces for like 30 bucks free shipping. That would be more cost effective for doing just the big three.

I followed the directions that came with my ho alt and it was more like 5 upgrades.

Either way you should put a dmm on your batteries before and after and see how much it helps.

Edit: I started thinking about it and if I was in your position and had little or no money to spend- I would start by upgrading the batteries ground to the body with one or two really short pieces of 4ga. See if that helps any

cool im going to buy 20 feet of 0 gauge and run my rockford fostgate 4 gauge as my big 3.. i decided

what? if you're ordering wire anyways why not get a couple extra feet of 1/0? it doesn't take much...what car are you putting it in, how far is your bat. from the alt?

um battery from alternator is a good 5 feet.. but dont i also have to ground on engine block and ground on chasis?? id probably have to get like 40 feet..

It does not take 20' or wire to do a big 3 upgrade.