I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

What is your budget?

How much power or what amplifier are you using?

How were you planning to actively crossover the drivers?

What frequency range did you intend to use the drivers?

How much room do you have to work with?

What is your budget?

How much power or what amplifier are you using?

How were you planning to actively crossover the drivers?

What frequency range did you intend to use the drivers?

How much room do you have to work with?

About 40 bucks per driver. Cross the hpf on the HU pretty low and run the front rca's to my amp for the mid basses. Then get the rca output off of that amp and run them to my amp for the 4x6s and set the hpf on the amp to about 125 Hz.

60ish-350ish with approximately 75 watts @ 4 ohms

There isn't much room my kick panels. I still want leg room. I'm considering Q forms, but I may build them.

Are you going to F/B it or buy a Q-logic one.

Are you going to F/B it or buy a Q-logic one.

Depends if I have the time to fiberglass them. I've never glassed anything before but I may give it a shot. I just think the q-logics will match my interior better. I mean I would paint the ones I make, but the texture will not be the same as the rest of my interior.

Why not solve the whole problem and scrap the 4x6's as well?

I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

The DC160 are an 8 ohm driver rated at 50 wrms. For the 18 bucks they costed me they really can't be beaten. What are you running for your tweets because that plays a major role in chosing which midbass driver would best suite your needs.

I would rather have midbass in the doors rather than kick panels, I believe there's much better midbass capability in doors. Any chance you can put them in your doors instead? That would save you feet room as well.

I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

The DC160 are an 8 ohm driver rated at 50 wrms. For the 18 bucks they costed me they really can't be beaten. What are you running for your tweets because that plays a major role in chosing which midbass driver would best suite your needs.

The DC160 isn't exactly what I would call a midbass driver.

I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

The DC160 are an 8 ohm driver rated at 50 wrms. For the 18 bucks they costed me they really can't be beaten. What are you running for your tweets because that plays a major role in chosing which midbass driver would best suite your needs.

The DC160 isn't exactly what I would call a midbass driver.

What would you call a midbass driver? Might be a bit more useful if you could give some examples or information.

About 40 bucks per driver. Cross the hpf on the HU pretty low and run the front rca's to my amp for the mid basses. Then get the rca output off of that amp and run them to my amp for the 4x6s and set the hpf on the amp to about 125 Hz.

60ish-350ish with approximately 75 watts @ 4 ohms

There isn't much room my kick panels. I still want leg room. I'm considering Q forms, but I may build them.

How much mounting depth are you working with?

I'm interested in adding a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers to my kick panels. The 4x6's aren't cutting it in the midbass section. I like the mach 5 mli65's and Dayton DC160S's. I'm up to suggestions other than these two drivers. Any suggestions?

The DC160 are an 8 ohm driver rated at 50 wrms. For the 18 bucks they costed me they really can't be beaten. What are you running for your tweets because that plays a major role in chosing which midbass driver would best suite your needs.

The DC160 isn't exactly what I would call a midbass driver.

What would you call a midbass driver? Might be a bit more useful if you could give some examples or information.

Goto Madisound and look at the frequency response graphs.

Mounting depth shouldn't be an issue because I have a cutout in the sheet metal behind the kicks. I could position the speakers so the magnets go into those cutouts.

I'd like to scrap the 4x6's, but I just invested in some infinity's. I don't believe one component set crossed actively could be as loud at 4 4x6's.

As for the drivers, Mach 5's have a pretty nice xmax (5.5mm). The dayton's are only 3mm. Also, the Mach 5's can handle more power...

What to do, what to do?

I'd like to scrap the 4x6's, but I just invested in some infinity's. I don't believe one component set crossed actively could be as loud at 4 4x6's.

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board.

I'd like to scrap the 4x6's, but I just invested in some infinity's. I don't believe one component set crossed actively could be as loud at 4 4x6's.

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board.

Alright, so should I try a pair of mli-65's with SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter in the kicks?

I would do the doors, but I don't want to ruin my doorpanels. The truck is a 90, and the interior is in awesome shape.

I'd like to scrap the 4x6's, but I just invested in some infinity's. I don't believe one component set crossed actively could be as loud at 4 4x6's.

Your faith is misconstrued. 4x6's are pretty much terrible across the board.

Alright, so should I try a pair of mli-65's with SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter in the kicks?

I would do the doors, but I don't want to ruin my doorpanels. The truck is a 90, and the interior is in awesome shape.

I don't think you realize what you are going to have to do near your kick panel area to make a pod. There is a lot of cutting involved and it is a bitch! The only people that fabricate kick panels are people who are going for optimum sound quality. A mid and tweet is usually put in a pod. I highly recommend you take this to a reputable shop to get done as it is not something you want to start as part of your first fiberglass job either.

Personally if the door panel idea really bothers you I would go to a junk yard and find a spare. There is one lying around somewhere.

I'd also add that if I could fit a large format tweet (which if you do kicks should be easy) I wouldn't even think of the H1396. Great tweeter for what it is, but again there are many better choices depending on your needs.

What are the advantages of large format tweeters? I have always used the small format type 1" dome tweeters.

Personally if the door panel idea really bothers you I would go to a junk yard and find a spare. There is one lying around somewhere.

Red interior parts = hard as shit to find. I've been to junk yards looking various parts, and the red interiors are hard to come by. I've seen two or three but the interiors were in horrible condition. But don't think i'm against the junk yard idea. I have junk yard bucket seats in my truck right now!!

I'd also add that if I could fit a large format tweet (which if you do kicks should be easy) I wouldn't even think of the H1396. Great tweeter for what it is, but again there are many better choices depending on your needs.

So what large format tweets would you recommend?

What are the advantages of large format tweeters? I have always used the small format type 1" dome tweeters.

Availability is a huge one. WAY more quality drivers built in the large format. A low Fs comes much cheaper as well. Both HUGE in the world of car audio IMO.

I'd also add that if I could fit a large format tweet (which if you do kicks should be easy) I wouldn't even think of the H1396. Great tweeter for what it is, but again there are many better choices depending on your needs.

So what large format tweets would you recommend?

Depends on your goals, budget, processing, mounting locations, and skill.

with the 160 you would need a tweet that crossed over a little lower like the North D25-06 or the Seas 27tdf. Just my .02

Availability is a huge one. WAY more quality drivers built in the large format. A low Fs comes much cheaper as well. Both HUGE in the world of car audio IMO.

Gotcha!

Thanks for the insight.

Alesis 1" Shielded Soft Dome Tweeter | alesis tweeter shielded soft dome soft dome tweeter cc50 FBR3 | Parts-Express.com

cross over @ 2500 with 24db/oct slope