OK, I finally had the new 12" RL-p installed into the Audi A6 wagon last week...and I was very disappointed (and mad) when I listened to it. I took it to a decent shop and had a 4 gauge amp kit run to the back of the wagon. I built the box myself, and it turned out very nice. I posted pictures a week or two ago. It is a sealed 1.4 cu ft box. The amp is a cadence 600x1 at 2 ohm (model A5+HC). I bought a Navone Engineering NE-7V LOC, which is supposed to be the best available. When I entered the car for the first time, I was shocked at how bad and quiet the sub sounded. From reading posts here, my hopes were through the roof. However, I was really let down. I am positive I could buy a $80 sub from best buy and get the same sq and spl. When I reviewed the install, the only issue I could identify was both sets of wires on the LOC were spliced only into the right channel of my Audi (at the rear factory amp/sub). The LOC is on the front page of http://www.autosound2000.com/ . If I turn my balance to the left, the bass is completely killed. I don't know if this could be my problem, but I am really disappointed right now. What else could it be? The sub sounds terrible when I turn it up, and it doesn't get near as loud as my two old IDQ 12" that were in the TRUNK of my Lexus (same amp). I thought that the open hatchback would increase the sound pressure, but it pales in comparison to the other setup. I don't know what to do at this point, so I would appreciate any help. Is there any way to tell if the amp is the problem? I am in central Ohio if someone can lend me a spare amp to try.

Thanks,

MX

i doubt it's the amp, but i seriously think it's the LOC. them things can be a touchy, and often, hit and miss item.

are the adjustments on the LOC at their maximium like recommended? sometimes, that isn't the best option...

i'd also like to see the LOC wired differently. sounds like they wanted to use the amplified signal from the amp going to the sub so that it was already crossed over. that, combined with the LOC's onboard adjustments, could be the issue.

that's all i can think of, if u're sure the amp is recieving a good signal.

if all that doesn't pan out, it might well be the sub, but with that power, in the right enclosure (and 1.4 NET sounds good for that power), u should be absolutely loving it.

let us know how it goes!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

the sub pwns, its your install listen to mrray13.

i doubt it's the amp, but i seriously think it's the LOC. them things can be a touchy, and often, hit and miss item.

are the adjustments on the LOC at their maximium like recommended? sometimes, that isn't the best option...

i'd also like to see the LOC wired differently. sounds like they wanted to use the amplified signal from the amp going to the sub so that it was already crossed over. that, combined with the LOC's onboard adjustments, could be the issue.

that's all i can think of, if u're sure the amp is recieving a good signal.

if all that doesn't pan out, it might well be the sub, but with that power, in the right enclosure (and 1.4 NET sounds good for that power), u should be absolutely loving it.

let us know how it goes!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm sorry to hear about the poor response but I'm sure it has something to do with the set up in general and not a physical problem with the sub. I doubt this many customers would rave about their subs if they were mediocre.

Have you seen JL audio's product called Clean Sweep, I bet that would solve the problem you are reporting.

You could also get an aftermarket HU and that would give you a far better signal as well as increase the flexibility of your system. If your signal starts out half bad and then you amplify the signal, how good could it really get.

Fix your signal and fix your problem

b

both sets of wires on the LOC were spliced only into the right channel of my Audi (at the rear factory amp/sub).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What exactly does that mean. Are you saying that you have left and right of one channel going to a speaker as well as the LOC?

I'm using LOC as well in my Merc E class. The sub sounds really good (eventhough it's not in the recomended box), it definitely sounds better and louder than newer Type S (used to have 2 of em) and older Type R. It doesn't sound as clean as it can be, due to the crappy HU in merc. And due to the box i'm using it's very peaky at certain frequency. I'm hoping to get the sub in my C ASAP, since it has the proper HU and amplification and of course built an optimum box.

The only 12 inch sub in my household that eclipse the performance of the RL-p is the IDMAX in it's optimal box and it cost twice as much.

I don't have that sort of problem u having with my LOC.

I never met a LOC i liked,they really kill SQ and output.........

According to David Navone, this LOC is competition grade. This piece was highly recommended by Caraudioforum.

I will take some pics of the install later tonight. Hopefully you see something I don't!

Does anyone live in central Ohio? I could use a second set of ears to test this setup, because it just doesn't sound good at all.

MX

Check these things out:

1) With a cheap DMM, your voltage going into your RCA inputs on your amp

2) The gain/output of your amp to your sub

3) MAKE SURE that the DVC are wired IN PHASE

4) Voltage supply to your amp is within the 11.5-14.4v range

If these are all okay, it would be the sub but I am sure you will find out that something is weird in the above.

Definitely run through those things and keep us posted!

Something doesn't sound right, and if it's the driver we'll have no problem getting a new one out to you.

1) Where do I get a cheap DMM?

2) gains are set at max, otherwise there was very little bass.

3) Is in phase the same as in parallel? The amp has a phase button on it, but I don't know what that is.

4) how do I measure incoming voltage?

Thanks for your help

MX

Cheap DMM: http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/instek/dmm/gdm350a.htm

Max gains are almost never a good thing

Try switching the polarity inputs on your driver. It is rare, but there have been one or two cases of the builders putting the terminals on backwards, thus making for the unintentional out-of-phase wiring.

http://www.truckininstyle.com/DMMprimer.htm

1) I bought a cheap DMM at a Microcenter--$5.99. Works very strange, but works (mad I dropped my Fluke)

2) Ouch, as Mike says max gains are not a good thing as most amps will clip at max and your sub won't run so good on a pseudo-square wave

3) On your DVC setup, red to red and blk to blk. Mike referred to a fact that they have been mislabeled perhaps. To check disconnect one of the two and see if it gets louder.

4) Unplug the RCA's from your amp and put the DMM on it. Read the voltage.

If you post the answers to my questions before, I am sure that we can help you.

1) Where do I get a cheap DMM?

2) gains are set at max, otherwise there was very little bass.

3)  Is in phase the same as in parallel?  The amp has a phase button on it, but I don't know what that is.

4) how do I measure incoming voltage?

Thanks for your help

MX

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

good luck

what the hell is an loc, and what is this jl clean sweep?

LOC= line out converter..used to convert from speaker level input to rca input.

jl clean sweep= i haven't got a damn clue...lol

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

My buddy used an LOC in his Dodge Ram to interface his factory cd player and his subs sounded like complete s**t with it(of course they were Treo's though ). He got a Sony Xplod head unit with a 4 volt output to his amp and it was like night and day.