So i checked today my battery voltage in the manual, its said it was 12.8v fully charged, this weekend into the week i am going to try and get a voltmeter, today i went to walmart, no luck. So the amps ive came down to for powering my 15" Fi BTL are:

SunDown:SAZ-1000D which is $315, or maybe something with more if i can find one

Audioque: 1200D or 2200D

I dont want to buy or invest in an amp that is over $600 so if theres a better option please tell me.

on a different note, what would an equalizer do for me,im trying to look into how to turn on and off the sub would a basic bass knob be the best?

Also what are some good cheap alternators? links would be nice, i am pretty sure il need to upgrade a 75 Alt ha.

Thanks

Sam

Your not going to get a good cheap alt. Pick one or the other, I suggest a good one.

Give Rob a call at The Biggest And Baddest 100% USA Built High Output Alternators - DC Power Engineering

Dude, your battery is 12v with out a vehicle to charge it. What does that matter once it's in a vehicle?

I think you need to learn alot more before you try to install a big system like this.

Dude, your battery is 12v with out a vehicle to charge it. What does that matter once it's in a vehicle?

I think you need to learn alot more before you try to install a big system like this.

I was told that a 1000-2000 amp would not fry my battery, how could i get around an alt, prob no way, would it be a better cost to get a second battery? or a better alt, cuz it would be the first thing i would do for the install

If you don't upgrade your alt your batteries are always going to be draining and your current alt will always be working...

facepalm...

i can tell you are just getting started, so lets get a few basics out of the way.

if you have a BTL then 1000w will work just fine, but you arent going to be maxing out your potential. if you are fine with this, get the 1000w amp. i would advise something in the 1500w to 2000w range tho. its always easier to start off with the "right " equipment than to have to buy something, sell it, and buy something else. that ends up getting expensive.

as far as turning the sub on/off, yes you can do that with an EQ. But, you can also do that with a remote gain found commonly on larger amps.

as far as your car and its electrical system, realize you need to do everything eventually. if you want to play with a big system, you are going to need the Big 3 done in 1/0, you are going to need at least 1 good battery, and you are going to need a better alternator. you can even do them in that order if you are on a budget. just realize that every thing you do is only going to make your system better. if you decide to skip something there will be consequences. like if you skip the alternator and get a second battery, then you will be fine until the batteries drain. you need to be able to recharge the batteries as fast as they are being drained. go too long without upgrading the alternator and you may end up with 2 dead batteries (fried is the wrong word. they will die from being overdrawn and cycled to death.)

you may also want to read around on the12volt and bcae1.com. you will want to understand ohms law at least a little bit, and you will want a good digital multimeter and the knowledge of how to use it.

and cheap and this hobby do not go together very well. you dont want the sound to be cheap do you? you get out of it what you put into it. so strive for quality equipment even if it means brown baggin it for a week or two.

^yes

You need an alt first.

Your vehicle computers rely on specific voltages to function properly. The computer relies on this minimum voltages to aid in the function of "high voltage" (or 12 volte) devices such as injectors, as well as low voltages (5 volts) such as sensors that base their base return voltages on a 5 volt reference. If you reduce the base voltage levels to the electrical system certain devices such as injectors will not have the energy to open properly and O2 sensor heaters won't have the power to heat up in time, and the voltages that have to be reduced for reference will be less because the initial voltage is too low. The battery is just a store house to provide the energy required to start the car, to help with quick high demands, to act as a "dampener" to reduce/eliminate voltage and current draining spikes due to the sudden turning on and off of high current devices like fans, AC compressors, etc. After starting the car the vast majority of the energy produced and used in the car is the alternator's job.

Alright im gona go shopping for an alt and im gona price out batteries. I am going to look at iraggi, techman and DC if there is better let me know, i am on a budget and my car is a 2005 Toyota 4Runner

Also what should be the amp numbers be, 100-200 or better? i was looking at them and now im second guessing my car year, this has been one hell of a night

I'd say at least 125, but I am an SQ guy who rarely ever pounds. But in my GN with a 1500 watt class AB and another 2X100 for comps i only have a 120 amp alt... well, it also has an AGM in the trunk...

All things considered a 175-200 should be good for a DD ground pounder.

Also, do the big 3. I know people recommend 1/0 but 4ga is enough for the short runs associated with the big 3.

If you look at this chart you will see you can safely run 4Ga wire at 200 amps for runs up to 20 feet (although I would ideally like more for that distance). But look at the figures that matter... 200 amps can safely carry across 6 ga for 10 feet and 8 ga for 7 feet. Honestly, you shouldn't have a run longer then 7 feet, as ideally you want to complete the run with the shortest possible run to reduce the resistance in the circuit... But to be safe, double up on the minimum.

Awaits the basting for not recommending 1/0 . But seriously, it's true.

I'd say at least 125, but I am an SQ guy who rarely ever pounds. But in my GN with a 1500 watt class AB and another 2X100 for comps i only have a 120 amp alt... well, it also has an AGM in the trunk...

All things considered a 175-200 should be good for a DD ground pounder.

Also, do the big 3. I know people recommend 1/0 but 4ga is enough for the short runs associated with the big 3.

If you look at this chart you will see you can safely run 4Ga wire at 200 amps for runs up to 20 feet (although I would ideally like more for that distance). But look at the figures that matter... 200 amps can safely carry across 6 ga for 10 feet and 8 ga for 7 feet. Honestly, you shouldn't have a run longer then 7 feet, as ideally you want to complete the run with the shortest possible run to reduce the resistance in the circuit... But to be safe, double up on the minimum.

Awaits the basting for not recommending 1/0 . But seriously, it's true.

Thanks a ton for this info, i was looking through my car manual, its a 4Runner 06 and i just got a new battery 3 days ago ha

Start small and upgrade as you learn more. Start with the "Big 3". Try to use a quality 1/0 gauge, stay away from some of the no name brands off eBay as you will get less than 1/0.

Get a voltage gauge in the vehichle so you can monitor your voltage.

If your looking at the Sundown SAZ-1000D for your BTL you may want to look into the new SAX-1200D same price and more power!

Thanks a ton for this info, i was looking through my car manual, its a 4Runner 06 and i just got a new battery 3 days ago ha

I would be amazed if the 2006 4 runner doesn't have a 100 amp or better alternator. Likely more like 120-130 amps. Today's cars with all their accessories, electronics, and computer controls really require, and of course are outfitted with fairly high capacity alternators. (30 year ASE master certified technician here too, this isn't just talking out of my @$$)

In fact, I quickly searched for the alt on google and found it is a 130 amp alt.

2006 toyota 4 runner alternator - Google Product Search

Edited July 3, 201015 yr by sandt38