Well I have finally gotten around to using the MB Quart PXD-213, I have had them sealed in box brand new for 6 years now. Fantastic product just never used them. The question I am having is this and it may sound like a noob issue so please be gentle.

I have a phenix gold 250.2 running them, have 12 gauge speaker wire in lengths less than 3 feet from amp to crossover, now I don't understand the installation diagram cause the damn thing is in german. or deutsh. so here is the issue, it says to run biwire from the amp into the low input and the high input, I have them wired just to the high input from amp and they sound phenomenal. now the issue is this at high volume the fuse or what appears to be afuse, lights up like a light bulb and flashes like its on a turn signal flasher. is this from maybe the gain being set to high and the "fuse" is just heating up and pulsing or does it have something to do with this biwire thing? and if thats the case couldn't i just jumpers from the high to the low? or does anybody know if those crazy germans deisgined them to light up and flashes like a honda civic fresh outta pepboys rice aisle? thanks for any input.

umm i think i know what it means by bi-wire as for a flashing fuse.. impossible maybe it is a clipping light?

please note in tihs pic how i have a little 2inch long wire JUMPING from the tweeter (highs) and running into the woofer (lows)

now tell me more of this fuse that lights up... can you take a pic and show us or a video or something b/c i don't know of any fuse that light up just for kicks!

i am thinking MAYBE your amp is flicking into protect due to an improper gain setting ro some kind a warning light?

then again i am unformalized with this amp so ya sorry man

o wait i just read your post title.. are your crossovers flashing? or the amp? if it is the cross overs i would say run the bi-wire and see if it fixes it and if it is the amp we need to look into it some more. at any rate pictures videos more info would be cool how is the amp grounded?

Na its the crossovers flashing the amp is fine, the music never cuts out when this happens and it has to be real loud for it to happen. this "fuse" sorta looks like the old skool dome lights where it sorta looks like a fuse but lights up. so what is the biwire for? i am not familiar with crossovers as this is the first i have ever used them. beside the old skool radio shack ones. I do know i have to take and move the little tweet selector down a notch as the tweets are very bright. over powering sometimes. just to clarify its the crossover fuse/light thingy not the amp. music never cuts out, and the mb quart website is no help as these were before the big buyout by maxxsonics so nothing before that merger is in their tech help. they have the psd 213 and nothing before those. which are almost teh same thigns basically.

That is in fact a protection feature of the crossover. Some Pro Audio speakers use them and when you are overpowering a specific component, like a tweeter, and those just those eliminate the extra power and gives it off as heat and light.

We had a set of JBLs for a party and they did that all night long with no problems. The guy who owned all the stuff says they do that whenever he uses them. Might be a sign of abuse.

They are part of an analog compression circuit to protect the tweeters, like Todd said.

Really, they are light bulbs. When they light up, thier impedance goes up dramatically and they start dropping voltage. This keeps you from theoretically blowing the tweeter. If they are lighting up all the time, you are applying more power than the designers intended for this particular system.

One other thing, they really muck up the sound.... I always replace them with a piece of wire, but if you are literally keeping them lit up, that may not be good advise in your case...

no the just light up when playing real loud and only flash so I'm wondering if I do the bi wire thingy and turn the gain down a bit it should retify the prob right?

no the just light up when playing real loud and only flash so I'm wondering if I do the bi wire thingy and turn the gain down a bit it should retify the prob right?

Mine used to do that alot, if you have a HPF turn it up a tad. Try to reduce bass going into the crossover.

Really, they are light bulbs. When they light up, thier impedance goes up dramatically and they start dropping voltage. This keeps you from theoretically blowing the tweeter. If they are lighting up all the time, you are applying more power than the designers intended for this particular system.

I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just seriously think about this.

Edited September 8, 201015 yr by 95Honda

i am thinking about this, as the rms rating is 150 for them, and i have them on a amp that is probally not even close to putting 75 watts rms. and i still would like to use this setup cause it was the amp came from my wifes car and the component set i traded for a set of used tires. i am going to try this biwire thing and turn the gain just a bit down cause i honestly think its to high as it is, and if that doesn't work then i will come back and admit defeat and ask for more help? ha i guess im to stubborn to try the way that sounds like i don't have the right stuff to do what i want.lol

wait a second.. you state early that you have a wire from your amp going to the HIGH part of the crossovers right? and nothing going to the LOW side? so you are saying you DO NOT have your mid-basses firing and ONLY the tweeters are firing?

will bi-wire (jumping the low and high) make a difference it might b/c they are made to have both the high and low side of the crossovers hooked up ALSO if your amp outputs 75~rms and they are rated for 150RMS this means your amp is clipping and that is why the light is turning on

so first lets try to jump the high and low turn the hpf up some and turn the gain down some more. keep in mind each song you play will sound different and could make the light come on again UNLESS you normalize all your music (1 set volume)

then report back with your findings!

You guys are looking into this way too much.

Light flashing = More power than the engineer intended for the tweeter.

That simple.

Has nothing to do with clipping, gain settings, bi-wiring, etc...

If you get the lights to stop flashing, it just means you reduced power in some way. Don't mental masturbate this...

lol nicely put honda

and OP sorry i screwed you up some i didn't mean to!

Solet me get this straight my 75 watt rms amp is too much for a 150 watt each rms pair of components? My mid basses are firing even with no biwire the amp isn't clipping as far as I can tell no o scope though and its not the amp light coming on I will take it back appart from the doorpanel and wire it biwire turn the gain down a smidge and then report back I do appreciate the input fellas I just am failing to see how a component set that would have cost 300 brand new can't handle 75 watts.

it says 150watt and your amp is outputting 75rms? or watts also? like my zapco rb are rated for 100wrms and my 100.4 (sundown sax100.4)can output 100wrms with no issue but i have to listen for clipping still.

so the rating on the comps is that an rms value or a peak/watt value?

thats 150 rms on the components but i do believe i fixed the issue. I rewired them biwire (pita) swapped the little switchy thingy to biwire and let the gain down just a smdige on the amp. it hasn't done the xmas light thing and i was trashing on it alot. the tweets are definatly not as bright, and the midbasses are more prominant so we will see, if it happens again i will let you guys know thanks

problem solved! awesome good to hear/read man! enjoy your night and enjoy those killer comps!

Thanks for the input, I knew if i asked the question here i would get help.