well if you have the space, 8 cubes @23 will work fine. I had one of my 18s in an 8@20 and it performed very nicely.

I have the space, do you have any idea on a rough estamate what it cost for the wood and supplies to build a box around 8 cubes? i have friends with table saws and routers thank god!!! Does anybody have any recomendations on sizes or anywhere i could find cut sheets with these specs?

I don't have any cut sheets for it saved on my computer, but I could probably make one up for you, and it will take two full sheets of MDF to build an 8 cube box. They are about $35 a sheet at Lowes, but I have found that a lot of the smaller local lumber yards sell it here for about $25 a panel. Call around and find out what your options are. The design I used was 32" wide, and 24" deep and 24" high with a 2" by 22.5" port.

Edited December 7, 201014 yr by The SSD Madman

I don't have any cut sheets for it saved on my computer, but I could probably make one up for you, and it will take two full sheets of MDF to build an 8 cube box. They are about $35 a sheet at Lowes, but I have found that a lot of the smaller local lumber yards sell it here for about $25 a panel. Call around and find out what your options are. The design I used was 32" wide, and 24" deep and 24" high with a 2" by 22.5" port.

That would be awesome if its not too much of a hassle i would appreciate it. do you use sketch up?

Yep, I use it for every enclosure I design, and then transfer the data over to a program called Cutmaster 2D so I can use the most efficient cuts for each panel. Good stuff right there. Let me draw up a model for you, and I am going to improve it for more port area, since that was one thing that wasn't up to my standards. Do you care if its a slot ported design? PM me with an email I can send the sketchup file to.

Edited December 7, 201014 yr by The SSD Madman

Yep, I use it for every enclosure I design, and then transfer the data over to a program called Cutmaster 2D so I can use the most efficient cuts for each panel. Good stuff right there. Let me draw up a model for you, and I am going to improve it for more port area, since that was one thing that wasn't up to my standards. Do you care if its a slot ported design? PM me with an email I can send the sketchup file to.

Perfer slot port, much easier to deal with. really appreiceate it thanks. Pm sent

The design is all yours, I hope you enjoy it! I didn't include the cut list, but I'm sure you can figure it out from the model I emailed to you.

The design is all yours, I hope you enjoy it! I didn't include the cut list, but I'm sure you can figure it out from the model I emailed to you.

Thanks alot, appreiceate it. do you know if 2 sheets is enough for a double baffle and bracing?

That's a good guy in my book. You could also grab a few PR's and then you could tune it to whatever you want. Build a 8 cube sealed box then cut some holes.

my guess is that it will probably be enough to double baffle the driver panel, and then have two cross braces inside as well, or you could go with some 2x4 bracing too. 2x4's will be better, since they have a higher resonance frequency than the MDF will.

PR's are a much better design than a ported, no port noise and less group delay, but the only downside to that idea is that the PR's will most likely cost almost as much as the subs do, and you would need two of them for one speaker.

That's a good guy in my book. You could also grab a few PR's and then you could tune it to whatever you want. Build a 8 cube sealed box then cut some holes.

PR?

passive radiators, basically a speaker with no motor, just the cone and suspension. you can use them to tune an enclosure just like you would a port, by adding weight to them.

Ohh passive radiator, i have seen builds with those in the past, there interesting. i am allready spending more then i like though, trying my hardest to keep this project under $800

Before i order the Q 18" are there any red flags or issues you guys see? this is my first diy and i have little experience and dont want anything to go wrong.

Just go with the dual 2 so you can either bridge it at 4 ohms to the outputs to the EP, or run it at 2 ohm stereo. I would also go with the cooling option and the extra spider pack, to keep up with that amp, and you should be OK, unless you need the Samson box.

Edited December 7, 201014 yr by The SSD Madman

Just go with the dual 2 so you can either bridge it at 4 ohms to the outputs to the EP, or run it at 2 ohm stereo. I would also go with the cooling option and the extra spider pack, to keep up with that amp, and you should be OK, unless you need the Samson box.

Allright sounds good, thanks for all the help. i was looking over your diagram and its probably just me making a mistake but using slot port calculators online i am getting 5-6 inches shorter then your port length for a 22 Hz tune, again probably just me but wanna make sure.

Ive been looking at alot of information on building subwoofer enclosures and it seems like it can be difficult, anybody have any good links to guides or helpful tips on buliding?

Just go with the dual 2 so you can either bridge it at 4 ohms to the outputs to the EP, or run it at 2 ohm stereo. I would also go with the cooling option and the extra spider pack, to keep up with that amp, and you should be OK, unless you need the Samson box.

Allright sounds good, thanks for all the help. i was looking over your diagram and its probably just me making a mistake but using slot port calculators online i am getting 5-6 inches shorter then your port length for a 22 Hz tune, again probably just me but wanna make sure.

I believe its because they dont calculate for end correction, that's why the tune seems off according to them. 22 hertz isn't the exact tune, but it was 21.81 hertz by my math. close enough for government work, right?

I was having some dobuts about the Q because i was reading people say "you need 30 ft cubed to reach a qtc of 7" which is rediculous. until i read that the new 2010 q's increased motor force brings that down to about a 5 cube enclosure sealed to reach a qtc of 7 thank god. building a ported enclosure will get me much more spl but Im not sure if im up for the task of building one, seems sort of difficult.

Its not any more difficult at all, when it comes to the port walls, just attach the second port wall to the first, then attach the first port wall to the front panel of the box. Here is a few pictures of my last enclosure, which had two ports, each with three port walls, and since the design I gave you only has one port and two walls, its super easy to do. It does help to mark an outline of the port walls on the top and bottom panels before assembling it so you have a reference of where they need to go.

I hope these pictures can help give you a reference on how to assemble it...

Edited December 8, 201014 yr by The SSD Madman

What if i were to take the easy way out and throw one of these in? would that work? ive heard it is easier to avoid port chuffling and can boost db a little with the flares.

You will want at least two of them, as you will want a lot of port area for the box size and amount of power you will be running, but your port length will be really long to keep that low of a tune using those. Ideally, you would want 12-16 inches of port area per cubic foot of air space in the box. With the same box dimensions as the plan I sent you, minus the slot port, is 8.836 cubes. Two of those ports will bring the volume to 7.690 with each port being 35 inches long for the 22 hertz tune, and that only gives you 55 inches of port area. You will need to buy some 90 degree bends to make it fit in the box though, since each port will be 35 inches long, and your depth is only 23.75" to the back wall with the ports mounted to the front of the baffle... Good luck!

am i going to need a ssf?

what about 3 4" in a 10 foot enclosure at 18 inches long? that would put me at a 22 hz tune with like.... what 70 sq in surface about? then in addition to having the 22 tune i may be able to plug one and get a tune of 18 if i can get away without chuffling. people say its very hard to make noise with an aero port and dont need as much surface aera

Edited December 8, 201014 yr by drewlrox

Well, three 4 inch aeros gives you 38 inches of port area, but I haven't used any aero ports in my boxes, so I couldn't tell you if that's enough or not. I would see if anybody with more experience with flared ports can help you out there. Other than that, it looks good. With a 22 hertz tune, you should be OK without an SSF.

Here is the program I use to calculate my volumes, and I love using it!

Enclosure Volume Calculator

Edited December 9, 201014 yr by The SSD Madman

Using winisd for a plugin i found for d2 18 q 2010 it says i just barely bottom out at 700 watts but at 1000 i EASILY bottom out at 17 hz and anything lower then that bottoms hard, i plan to be pushing this near limit with cooling package so idk :/