Posted December 11, 201014 yr Any ideas? I was looking at a couple hifonics bxi's but i heard they were just power hungry and not too good.
December 11, 201014 yr Author The BRZ line is legit.You think it's worth it? What would be better the 1700.1 or 1200.1? Because I know that BL's can handle more than reccomended RMS with the right setup/enclosure.
December 11, 201014 yr It depends. Do you have any electrical system upgrades? It takes power to make power.
December 11, 201014 yr Author It depends. Do you have any electrical system upgrades? It takes power to make power.I was going to do the big 3.
December 11, 201014 yr The big three will probably not be sufficient, it won't add a y power to the electrical system. Those amplifiers will draw between 150 and 200 amps of current, it has to come form somewhere.
December 11, 201014 yr Author The big three will probably not be sufficient, it won't add a y power to the electrical system. Those amplifiers will draw between 150 and 200 amps of current, it has to come form somewhere.What should I do to gain more power? Sorry, I'm new to this stuff and I'm getting my whole set up real soon.
December 11, 201014 yr You have a battery that creates power through a chemical reaction, it is responsible for supporting the car's electronics when your alternator cannot. It's best to get the biggest alternator you can fit in the vehicle, and it should be enough considering your power level, or a large group 31 battery in the rear should be able to support the amplifier; assuming you want the 1700 watt BRZ.
December 11, 201014 yr Author I'm really on a budget, so what's the cheapest I could spend to sufficiently power everything?
December 11, 201014 yr Author A battery in the rear. What is your budget?No more than $200, but obviously, the cheaper the better. And i really appreciate your help
December 11, 201014 yr Look into Deka Intimidator batteries, their largest battery is about $175, and can power your amplifier well.
December 11, 201014 yr That's pushing it. It depends on the size of your stock alternator and battery.
December 11, 201014 yr Author No. Get Audioque.X2, a aq 1200 d would be perfect for a blOnly $250? I see videos on youtube and everyone has these.. I think I just found my amp..
December 11, 201014 yr No. Get Audioque.X2, a aq 1200 d would be perfect for a blOnly $250? I see videos on youtube and everyone has these.. I think I just found my amp..I have the AQ 1200D myself, solid little amp, easy on the current draw too. I'm running it off a stock alt and a duralast 24 battery.
December 18, 201014 yr I have had some play time with an AQ 1200 and it seemed like a great amp. Especially for the price. You can also keep an eye out in the classifieds section. Great deals pop up dialy on the forums. Saz1500Ds pop up from time to time for $250-350. The AQ could be found even cheaper used. Or you could always consider buying an larger amp for headroom for the future. There are plenty of great buget amps out there in the 2-3k range. Audiopipe 3k, AQ 2200 or 3500, Hiifonics BXI line, and a few other names that I'm missing. Good luck bro.
December 18, 201014 yr The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely...As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient...Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere...Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle...This is how you do it right, on a budget...
December 18, 201014 yr The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely...As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient...Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere...Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle...This is how you do it right, on a budget...Good Advice!
December 21, 201014 yr Admin The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely...As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient...Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere...Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle...This is how you do it right, on a budget...Good Advice! X2But for some reason, an excellent option the Clarion DPX11551 seems to be overlooked here.
December 21, 201014 yr The power you will need will be determained by your enclosure. It has absoluetly nothing to do with the RMS rating. Make sure you can build, or have someone design and build you an efficient box, this may make it a little bigger than you first think, but this is how you use your power wisely...As long as the Hifonics amp is working properly, it's performance will be as close to any other class D on the market.... I used to repair car audio amplifiers on the side to make money. I looked at the output of many amplifiers.... The class Ds are generally about the same.... And unless they are not working right, they are all similarly efficient...Go to Walmart, buy that huge-ass yellow SOB battery that is like $100. It will outperform any "car audio" battery under a few hundred bucks... And you can take it back as many times as you want if you kill it, or just want a fresh charge... Make sure you secure it so it doesn't go flying around and short out somewhere...Use good wire, upgrade the "big 3". Don't buy any of your power wire from a car audio shop, or anywhere else that says it is "car audio" power wire. Use welding cable. Don't terminate the wire shitty. Either borrow/buy a crimper, or have the welding shop terminate the wire for you. They normally have large crimpers that will do this, and if you buy the cable there, they'll probably do it for free.... Also, don't think you'll need "car audio" terminals, if the welding shops sell the big-mofo copper ring terminals that will fit you application. You'll just need to use something like NOALOX to coat them and the termination with due to them being bare copper. Paint them as a minimum after they are installed to places like the frame of the vehicle...This is how you do it right, on a budget...Nice!
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