February 4, 201114 yr Author So I got an email from their tech team and it stated the crossover point is 2.8-3.2kHz ... They also told me that I can buy new crossovers for 60 beans for the pair.... Can I run these active with the BA GT2-125 and the SAX 100.2 ??? Thanks again to whomever lets me know... It would be nice to use these since #1 they were free and #2 since they seem to feel/look like pretty decent speakers...
February 5, 201114 yr So I got an email from their tech team and it stated the crossover point is 2.8-3.2kHz ... They also told me that I can buy new crossovers for 60 beans for the pair.... Can I run these active with the BA GT2-125 and the SAX 100.2 ??? Thanks again to whomever lets me know... It would be nice to use these since #1 they were free and #2 since they seem to feel/look like pretty decent speakers...2.8 - 3.2? WTF kind of retarded answer is that??? I suppose you could measure one and then use that to measure the other, but jeez you'd think they'd actually know. I'd ask for clarification.
February 5, 201114 yr Author Yea, the second email I wrote I asked for more specifics on what I should set them for in an active setup and asked about the slopes... Answer was 2.8-3.2kHz again... And they do not release slope information .... F'in crazies!!!
February 5, 201114 yr Yea, the second email I wrote I asked for more specifics on what I should set them for in an active setup and asked about the slopes... Answer was 2.8-3.2kHz again... And they do not release slope information .... F'in crazies!!!The point of asking was to fix the passives, not run active. I am SURE that their setup is NOT optimized and you'd be way better off picking your own. They don't release jack because those are cheap shitty crossovers.
February 5, 201114 yr Author So I should look into building/creating a crossover or purchasing one in that range of the crossover?
February 7, 201114 yr Author Yea, I don't know what to get to "fix" the crossover... I don't really know what that piece is that is missing... As far as the screws and rust go though, I think I should be able to get that cleared up fine...
February 7, 201114 yr That is eDuh for you. Won't help and have no idea on wtf they are talking about.If it helps maybe send them a pic of the missing component on the crossover and ask if they could tell you the value of the inductor so you can do a diy fix.Good luck
February 9, 201114 yr the whole reason for the rather poor response I would assume is due to the fact that likely the values differ from x-over set to another. Whenever your company is based on just getting the cheapest b-stock you can find and then sticking your name on it, then you wind up with no two "same model" parts actually winding up the same. They can't tell you the values or slopes because they just don't know. Those x-overs probably have over 100 variations depending on what went on the line when.I'd say try running them active. Use the front output from your deck to go to the tweeters and the rear output to go to the mid ranges. Use the high pass filter on your rear outputs set at what you want them to stay above and then use the lpf on whichever amp you choose to run the midranges. Start around what thy gave you say in the 2.8 to 3.2 KHz range, and then use the high pass on the amp to the tweats and set around the same, then go from there for changing slopes (if you can) as well as what frequency (up/down) to get the sound to where you want.
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