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Posted

Hey guys, right know i currently have a jl w6v2, its being run by an ancient rf amp thats putting out around 500 watts or so.

First question... Would i be safe to run this amp at 2 ohms for the w6.

Second Question... Honest opinion on the amp and overall quality...

Shouldn't have any problems at all, pretty sure all the Brutus monoblocks are 1 ohm stable.

Edited by Ohjay

  • Author

Shouldn't have any problems. Older RF amps were usually great.

yeah ive honestly had no problems with it at all, its about 10 years old actually... It is now getting an overheating problem, after about 10 mins of being on a decent level it will go shut off for about a minute and then go back on. :(

Hey guys, right know i currently have a jl w6v2, its being run by an ancient rf amp thats putting out around 500 watts or so.

First question... Would i be safe to run this amp at 2 ohms for the w6.

Second Question... Honest opinion on the amp and overall quality...

All Brutus's are 2006 CEA Compliant which means they have are rated for "true power" meaning if you get the 1200.1D then it will put out at least 1200 wrms @ 1 ohm. The Brutus' are also 1 ohm stable and you will only get 600 wrms @ 2 ohms. My friend owns a 1200.1D brutus and he was powering 2 JBL P1224 Series with it and they hit really hard, he is upgrading to either 2 SA-8's or a SA-15. I have the 2100.1D brutus powering 1 SA-12 and it slams. The point i'm getting at is Hifonics are known for their amplifiers, they are very well built amps. And for the price/watt, you cant really complain.

I wired my little brother's bxi1606D down to 1 ohm last night on his new Skars. Pulls a lot of current though, his stock electrical can't keep up even with the big 3. We're hoping a better underhood battery will do the trick as he doesn't want to shell out $500+ for a bigger alt and another $100-$200 to have it installed as I don't want to mess with his alternator anymore, it's a damn nightmare to get to in his Caliber.

just get a group 31 agm battery back there in the trunk too. upgrading the big three doesn't mean the stock electricals can handle more current. also you may have the gain up too high. you have to compromise. either turn it down or upgrade. :)

We turned it down to be safe until he decides what he wants to do. I'm trying to talk him into adding a battery but he doesn't have room for one unless we take out the spare and put it in the hole. We might be able to squeeze something small in there, I have to do a little more figuring and stuff first.

  • Author

So i have decided that im most likely going to go with this, although i do have one thing that i am not too sure on.

I currently have a jlw6v2 which are all dual 4ohm subs. So i am thinking i could run this at 2ohms and get it 900w, and just keep the gain down a bit since the w6 is rated at about 600w.

What would you think about me doing that and is this the way to do it?

DVC_Parallel_1.gif

The diagram shown will give you a 2 ohm nominal load for a 4 ohm dvc sub, so that's correct. You really shouldn't worry about keeping the gain down, as even decent subs should be able to take more than what they are rated for (as long as the signal given to them is clean). Plus having the headroom is nice!

  • Author

The diagram shown will give you a 2 ohm nominal load for a 4 ohm dvc sub, so that's correct. You really shouldn't worry about keeping the gain down, as even decent subs should be able to take more than what they are rated for (as long as the signal given to them is clean). Plus having the headroom is nice!

Thanks for the reply, yeah i was planning on having a bit of headroom just so if this doesnt make me happy enough ill be able to upgrade the sub a bit.

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