I have a couple questions about wiring my system.

1. When wiring more than one battery where to put the fues?

2. I have a side post stock battery is there a way that I can put adapters on the stock battery to connect the ring terminals?

One last question about the batteries....do I connect all positives to each other and all negatives to each other?

1. always put fuse within 12inch (1ft) of the battery

2. will this work? http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=BT-104P or http://dts.ystoretools.com/1248/images/250x1000/gbpa1s.jpg

3. yes wire all 12vdc batteries in parellel with each other (+ to +, - to -)

So I have to run a postive and negative wire from the front stock battery to the two rear batteries. Then wire them in parellel then run the power wore from I've of the rear batteries to the amp..correct?

just like this my good man!

also note in that MS paint is the BIG 3 upgrade!

My alternator just have a terminal for a positive connection.

same with mine!

notice the RED is the power on my alt, and the GREEN is the negative. there is a bar off my alt that attaches to the engine it acts as a ground an a support! make sense?

OH ok I understand now...thanks for the help

no worries man anytime!

Just wire ur negative to the bolt that ur alt attaches to your engine.

Part of the big 3 really.

also bus bars are more efficient.

than going from batt post to batt post

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

Also for your stock side post batt, just use a longer bolt.

Just wire ur negative to the bolt that ur alt attaches to your engine.

Part of the big 3 really.

also bus bars are more efficient.

than going from batt post to batt post

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html

Also for your stock side post batt, just use a longer bolt.

any point coming off of your alt, and connecting to your engine will be good to use. I suggest using the one I did in my pic as it is close and easy to access. although with your car that point might not be there.

buss bars are more efficient plus they provide flexability on installs. but considering the link you provided is for 3 or more batteries bus bar are not essential. I know with my setup my batteries are on either side of my trunk, which is 40inch away from each other and making a bus bar that long that would work for me wouldn't be cost efficient.

also rather then using a LONG bolt just use one of these

they are pretty cheap on ebay or your local car audio shop. I suggest using those because you can attach your cars electrical stuff on the main piece close to the battery, then all your car audio stuff on the other end. that way if you ever need to remove the runs it is simple to do and you don't need to worry about dissconecting your cars power at the same time.

and yes a long bolt also works just keep in mind the depth of the hole and try not to bottom out.

1) You should have a fuse on the positive lead coming from the front battery to the rear or second battery and also a fuse before your amp.

2) Yes you can, but this adapter will probably have to be custom made. You can get a thin piece of metal, bend it and drill it to fit on your post, then tap it so you can screw the ring terminals onto it. I saw something similar on a build log somewhere on this website. If I have to do it when I install my battery in May, I'll do a log of it for you!

3) Yes, you should do front battery (+) to rear battery (+) and front battery (-) to rear battery (-).

Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any more questions.

EDIT: Spelling

Edited April 6, 201114 yr by Dutchie.

how good is install bay 0 ga. wire?

don't know! here all the wires I will be testing soon. how much money do you have to spend on wiring?

EFX Scosche

KNU KCA

KNU Kolossus

Q Power

Raptor

Rockford Fosgate

Sound Quest

Stinger HPM

Street Wires

Tsunami

XScorpion

so let me know a price and I can make a recommendation to you. Tsunami was decently price I believe.

about $100

for a 100$ I would actually purcahse this wire

Blue

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-BLUE-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515149186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194582#ht_3213wt_1101

Black

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-BLACK-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515148355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194243#ht_3194wt_1101

Red

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-RED-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515148364?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f819424c#ht_3175wt_1101

this stuff actually came to surprise me! it also some in 30ft increments and 7foot increments. you can also purchase welding wire from welding supplies!

I need two runs 19 ft. Is that wire better than knu kca? I can get 40 ft of that from their site for $78 +shipping

KNU KCA = CCA (copper clad aluminium)

Cadence = copper

KCA - 20ft = 40$ - 2/ft

Cadence - 24.5ft = 50$ - 2.04/ft

both cost similar I would prefer you purchased the copper wiring over the CCA wiring

http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-24-5-FEET-RED-AMP-POWER-GROUND-WIRE-/300515149079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194517#ht_3207wt_1139

PLUS free shipping if you buy on the ebay store if you buy on KNU it would cost...$$ for shipping

i read that the cadence is cca

sure? where did you read that it? I just looked at the conduit and it looks like copper lol also it says this:

"Cadence power and ground cables are manufactured using the highest quality copper raw materials"

at any rate don't be scared of CCA wiring it is all good stuff plus this Cadence stuff is a decent price!

so i will be alright running 3500 watts with this cca wire?

I think you will but I an sure others will think other wise. Keeping in mind I am running 5k through my cca wire and I have not run into an issue yet