You can countersink the screws and the volume taken up by the screwheads would be negligible anyways.

yea i would said a bolt through the wood,

tack weld the bolt the steel.

or bolt and nut.

orrrr

DUCK TAPE!!!! lmao

Looking forward to seeing how it holds up. You could also tack weld the top of that steel brace to the car, then just bump the tacks with a grinder when you need to remove them.

yea, i would have welded steel to steel whenever i have the chance but time is of the essence and i dont have access to a welder 24\7 so when i need to adhere... if the welder isn't here, glue it is...

I am still debating on running a bolt through the steel to steel part and just drilling out a hole for the side walls to go around the bolt head but just havent got to that part yet.

and the only welder that's been used on this car is a mig welder. it works perfectly fine with the steel i'm using.

The flooring is mig welded and dead level right now.

http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn147/shizzzon/?action=view&current=video-2011-04-19-11-33-37.mp4

"Oh yeah, I like this glue"

i'm bout to glue the shit out of everything in a minute.

heh, looks like the stuff work wells. Curious to see once everything is done, if 15xdB+ rips it apart or not.

well you'll never know at that point because you'll never see it once the wall is built.

Then I hope it works

Drill a hole and put a bolt through it...

dont worry, hehe, i have MANY anchor points in this car..

I'll be removing the headliner soon and then the car will be bare.

floor, sides, top and angle iron in the back.. all anchor points.

Drill a hole and put a bolt through it...

I will sir on each side of the car.

if that would would have came off while u was pullin on it.

good stuff seems like though

My PL PRO has never come undone, 2"x6" framing to steel, 2"x4", and 3/4" MDF.