Posted April 30, 201114 yr The $469 price for the 21 is the DR motor – which is a 7.5” triple stacked motor, very beefy.On the IB 21 – T/S are:Fs: 21 HzQms: 8.08Qts: 0.67Qes: 0.73Mms: 419 gBL: 15.35Vas: 372.7 LSPL: 90.5 1w/1m
April 30, 201114 yr Why won't you just do a normal box? I'll be $20 a proper ported enclosure will out do an equal IB.
April 30, 201114 yr Author I am vented right now, but am considering chopping the towers down and using the spare room as an IB/ experiment vented. The 8'x8' platform blocks the spare room, that never used to be a problem, but with my GF and her son moved in we need access to that room a lot now. If I chop the towers...my GF tells me I can not, backwards WAF :-P, then i can slide the platform forward 3' for easy access. I dont want to cut the towers either, they are part of the experience.... but that room, IDK
April 30, 201114 yr I am vented right now, but am considering chopping the towers down and using the spare room as an IB/ experiment vented. The 8'x8' platform blocks the spare room, that never used to be a problem, but with my GF and her son moved in we need access to that room a lot now. If I chop the towers...my GF tells me I can not, backwards WAF :-P, then i can slide the platform forward 3' for easy access. I dont want to cut the towers either, they are part of the experience.... but that room, IDK If you are going to run IB, then it won't be an LLT...but for once I nearly like your idea. Remove the experiment and focus on the install instead.
April 30, 201114 yr And I realize you are going to try to make the room the box. Make sure you account for the QL when modeling.
April 30, 201114 yr Author I am vented right now, but am considering chopping the towers down and using the spare room as an IB/ experiment vented. The 8'x8' platform blocks the spare room, that never used to be a problem, but with my GF and her son moved in we need access to that room a lot now. If I chop the towers...my GF tells me I can not, backwards WAF :-P, then i can slide the platform forward 3' for easy access. I dont want to cut the towers either, they are part of the experience.... but that room, IDK If you are going to run IB, then it won't be an LLT...but for once I nearly like your idea. Remove the experiment and focus on the install instead.yeeeah yeeah! I saw you were the last to post, blood pressure went up, burning in my throat, I was preparing myself
May 1, 201114 yr Author until I sell the IB3s to get these Ill run them in thiscurrent towers red, room box yellowfr2400 watts keeps both under Xmech... I surpass Xmax all the time doesnt bother me other than headroom...
May 1, 201114 yr Author alright, I may skip the option of plugging for IB and build a hallway walk through port/manifold off the outter edge of the door frame and remove the door. The outter dimensions of the frame are 41" wide and 95" tall... perfect. I can either go 1 sheet of 4'x8' long and put ends going outward at a 90 degree to further prevent cancellation of the rear wave, or 2 sheets long doubling port length and reducing cancellation of the rear wave while tuning lower.I haven't slept yet, I had to retype all that and edit my pics. At first I thought I was leaving the door in so i could plug the port and keep a door on the spare room... then i realized if I shut the door, um, hmm... I am sealing the subs off altogether...and with it open it would obstruct the 2 subs on that side unless I move them down past the door, defeating the purpose of the long hallway in the first place to prevent rear wave cancellation I need to go to bed.this is using 2 wide for longer port length, lower tuningthis is only 1 wide and blocks at the ends to reduce port length but kill more rear wave cancellationthis is 2 wide, long port, door in (DOH) would have been able to open and close the door inside the halway/manifold/portthis is 1 wide short port door in (DOH)2 wide long port door gone 1 wide short port end caps for rear wave door gonesleepy time
May 1, 201114 yr Author or I can slide woofers 29.5" back so I can leave door in, leaving 19.5" for the subs to mount at the end of board 1. 4x8 is actually 49 wide. I still couldn't use it with the door shut, but I'd still have a door.What would all this accomplish by tearing the towers down? You guys would think getting space back. I suppose yes, but thats not the driving force... exactly. One, I need easier access to the spare room. Right now we have to walk up the bleechers, step up the side shelf, open the door standing on the shelf, climb down to the floor, back up, reverse process. It's a pain going in and out of the spare room several times a day. Two. Most of you know I am a post you-know-what. I crave attention, even if it has to be bad it's better than none. The towers have died, there's nothing left but to listen...well, it needs more bracing, then left alone. Three... The towers are dead! Now what do I do? The fun of it is building, posting, testing, modding...its finito! Morte! Four.. I love thinking, plotting, planning, building, realizing, modifying... the process itself. Its just what i do. I need to keep on doing it. Five: I need more low end FR! MORE! The "low" bass, "mid" bass, "high" bass all overpowers my ULF. ULF is very hard to create and easy to get burried under lesser SPLs of higher frequencies. I LOVE the ULF, like the rest, but I get way more of the rest. SIX: cuz I am KW :-PI still want desperately to try IB, so you all know full well i will design another door for the other end so I can seal it up with the BR door open and go tru IB
May 1, 201114 yr Author I am pretty sure this is what I am going to do. My MDF is actually 97 x 49..sheesh.I'll have to butt up part of a 2nd sheet to the end of each side and top (bottom too?) for a total length of 70". I want to mount the subs side by side, at the top, and run 2x4s between them... 4 in each "corner" of the subs so 4 of the mounting screws will go through the subs and into 2x4 studs like in the towers. So I will need 21" wide off each sheet, leaving 28" pieces.I'll take those 28" pieces and make the end caps for the rear waves, that leaves over 10" clearance from the closest wall to prevent the air getting trapped/loaded into a corner.830 cubic feet 41" x 95" x 70" port 10Hz tuning
May 1, 201114 yr No idea man, but it all looks interesting, maybe even promising How loud was it outside your house with the towers?
May 1, 201114 yr Author When I only had 1 sub per tower you couldnt hear anything outside, the FR was flat to 20Hz then spiked 4dB at 15Hz, now with 2 per tower its flat to 30Hz then dips 5dB to 10Hz and its loud as hell outside and shakes my neighbors windows. I boarded up my window on his side of my house, didn't help any but he's cool about it.
May 1, 201114 yr When I only had 1 sub per tower you couldnt hear anything outside, the FR was flat to 20Hz then spiked 4dB at 15Hz, now with 2 per tower its flat to 30Hz then dips 5dB to 10Hz and its loud as hell outside and shakes my neighbors windows. I boarded up my window on his side of my house, didn't help any but he's cool about it.Yeah it seems like a challenge getting ht loud but keeping it inside the house and not disrupting others
May 1, 201114 yr Author its very challenging, keeping things from flexing to avoid dips and nulls as well as buzzing and ratling, gotta go so much lower, much less cabin/room gain... keeps ya busy though!
May 1, 201114 yr Author got to thinking the front wave will go backwards through the manifold as much as forward without a back on it, IDK how this works in a tapped horn or 6th order, more thinking. Maybe manifold on top of the port.
May 2, 201114 yr Author before I go completely screwing things up I'm going to get more 2x4s to do side to side bracing and get 2 more 12" pipes, 48" for 6.5Hz. doesnt look near as bad until 10Hz HP is added for electronics roll off.frlotta wattsspl
May 2, 201114 yr I honestly have no clue what is going on here Your diagrams and charts look nice though. Good luck with this. I wish I had as much free time to tinker as you do
May 2, 201114 yr Author I honestly have no clue what is going on here Your diagrams and charts look nice though. Good luck with this. I wish I had as much free time to tinker as you do How much do you know about tapped horns and 6th order BP? My current roadblock is, will 1/2 of the front wave go backwards through the port/hallway/manifold?
May 2, 201114 yr Author Go to Home Depot buy a cheap solid core door' date=' do something like this .......[img']http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/SUB5.JPGI know I brain storm fast and take quick turns out of nowhere, now I am really liking Thomas-W's idea. I just went out to my garage and pulled an old door down, it's too short and wide... was hoping to spare the door I have now... but after all the other things I have done to it, what the heck.The current door, the top rectangle dims are 21" wide 49" tall... if thats not perfect... I can cut 49"x21" panels for the manifold back layers and 49x21" panels for the sides... 2 or more layers thick. So 21"x21"x49" manifold like pictured above.The bottom is 21" x 18", I can either cut it ou as a square and make a slot port thats easily pluggable with a panel cover, or I can hack it to a 21" diameter circle and use the 20" sonotube up to 48" length so it clears the wall when opened...but not so easily pluggable.
May 16, 201114 yr And I realize you are going to try to make the room the box. Make sure you account for the QL when modeling.agreed. ^^^^^^
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