it makes a difference. I mean, im not talking about competition difference but it is a little bit of difference. my buddy sealed his trunk with peel and seal and the trunk doesnt rattle annoyingly anymore. he has two sundown 10" nightshades on a saz 2500

whoa whoa. i dont know much about sound deadening but im just pitchin my 2 cents. my friend used peel and seal and it made a difference compared to nothing.. im not saying its better than anything you guys have mentioned but is certainly cheap. just saying.

in that case, dirty socks work too.

Take some time to read through the descriptions of each of these products and there uses. I learned a lot by reading through this web site. Cheaper is never better when it comes to sound deadening.

i guess. .. nvm. lol

It is a waste of 15 bucks. Tons of way cheaper things could have fixed the rattles, not at all what deadener is for.

Take some time to read through the descriptions of each of these products and there uses. I learned a lot by reading through this web site. Cheaper is never better when it comes to sound deadening.

Learned alot there. thanks.

Hi Everyone..

Thanks for the constructive replies...

Sorry to have caused such a **itstorm with my little post.

Peel N' Seel? Waste of time and money. I tried it in my current ride, a Focus wagon. It didn't do a damn thing except make my car heavier. Seriously.

If that worked, I would have never posted.

However, I am on a budget, so here's what I did:

100 sq ft of Fatmat 50mil thickness: $125.00 on fleabay with free shipping

155 sq ft of 2lb Volara Closed Cell Foam in 1/8" thickness: $77 wilth free shipping

100 sq ft of 1/8" thick mass loaded vinyl: $115.00 + $50.00 shipping on fleabay - price is same direct from seller's website too. MLV is really really hard to get cheap because it costs what it costs. Plus it's heavy as hell so it's expensive to ship.

I realize that a lot of the quantities I ordered are far more than I need. Especially the fatmat. But, in the end it's just cheaper that way. Plus I can use the leftovers in my GF's Scion tC which is noisy as hell. I think my ears were ringing after our 14 hour banzai run home from Salt Lake City.

The plan is to do cld - foam - mlv everywhere except the roof. The roof will be cld - foam. No mlv.

Plus, in my mazda wagon, including the roof and all the doors, I measured it out to be approx 141 sq ft. This leave me some extra for dual layers of foam in the doors - cld-foam-mlv on the inside of the door skins, plus foam and maybe some mlv on the backside of the door panels.

I have not ordered the mlv off ebay - yet. If they combine shipping I will order 2 rolls. Then I definitely have enough to do both cars.

So, assuming I order 2 rolls of the mlv and I pay $75 in shipping, my total cost for sound deadening for 2 cars will be: $507.00. About double what I wanted to spend, but then if you consider I will be able to do 2 cars with it, and do it the right way. At least I *hope* it's the right way!

Thanks,

Michael

Hi Everyone..

Thanks for the constructive replies...

Sorry to have caused such a **itstorm with my little post.

Peel N' Seel? Waste of time and money. I tried it in my current ride, a Focus wagon. It didn't do a damn thing except make my car heavier. Seriously.

If that worked, I would have never posted.

However, I am on a budget, so here's what I did:

100 sq ft of Fatmat 50mil thickness: $125.00 on fleabay with free shipping

155 sq ft of 2lb Volara Closed Cell Foam in 1/8" thickness: $77 wilth free shipping

100 sq ft of 1/8" thick mass loaded vinyl: $115.00 + $50.00 shipping on fleabay - price is same direct from seller's website too. MLV is really really hard to get cheap because it costs what it costs. Plus it's heavy as hell so it's expensive to ship.

I realize that a lot of the quantities I ordered are far more than I need. Especially the fatmat. But, in the end it's just cheaper that way. Plus I can use the leftovers in my GF's Scion tC which is noisy as hell. I think my ears were ringing after our 14 hour banzai run home from Salt Lake City.

The plan is to do cld - foam - mlv everywhere except the roof. The roof will be cld - foam. No mlv.

Plus, in my mazda wagon, including the roof and all the doors, I measured it out to be approx 141 sq ft. This leave me some extra for dual layers of foam in the doors - cld-foam-mlv on the inside of the door skins, plus foam and maybe some mlv on the backside of the door panels.

I have not ordered the mlv off ebay - yet. If they combine shipping I will order 2 rolls. Then I definitely have enough to do both cars.

So, assuming I order 2 rolls of the mlv and I pay $75 in shipping, my total cost for sound deadening for 2 cars will be: $507.00. About double what I wanted to spend, but then if you consider I will be able to do 2 cars with it, and do it the right way. At least I *hope* it's the right way!

Bad news - let me put this as delicately as I can - I once asked the owner of Fatmat how it was different from Peel & Seal. He refused to answer the question. Interesting fact is that the same guy owns a roofing supply company that sells P&S.

Thanks,

Michael

Not trying to be a dick, but I would very seriously urge you to test the burn rate of Volara before you use it, or at least before you use it in your girlfriend's car. Scared me when I tried it.

Nice list you have going there and i was also looking on ebay for some of those same items to buy for my car but thankfully i live close to a company that sells the volara foam and can get it in 1/4" since i don't have to pay shipping and as you mentioned the mlv is going to be an expensive ship no matter where you buy from. I still haven't made made my mind up yet on what brand of deadener to go with since i don't know if i'll be doing inner and outer door skins or just outer ones for now.

Bad news - let me put this as delicately as I can - I once asked the owner of Fatmat how it was different from Peel & Seal. He refused to answer the question. Interesting fact is that the same guy owns a roofing supply company that sells P&S.

Well, I haven't opened the box yet but if it is as you suggest then I guess I got scammed even though I tried not to.

I will still use it if for nothing else than to add mass and reduce the "tinnyness" of my doors, floor and roof. I have learned not to rely on that as my only defense against road and wind noise. I'm hoping the foam and mlv blocks most of the noise.

If non of that works well, then I guess the hell with it and I'll stop using these products for any of my cars. I'll put the $ towards bigger amps and better drivers. ;P

Michael

$500+ and going with the bad stuff. That's crazy.

Not trying to be a dick, but I would very seriously urge you to test the burn rate of Volara before you use it, or at least before you use it in your girlfriend's car. Scared me when I tried it.

LMAO!

So what else did I do wrong?

I'm sure to some people it is a concern. I, personally, do not care. If my car catches on fire, trust me I *want* it to burn to the ground. That way my ins company will total it and I can move on. I always buy extra coverage my goodies too.

I've known people who had minor car fires and the ins company fixed them. The cars - both of them - had fire odor for years afterwards and had weird random electrical issues after the "repairs." No thanks, just total it, pay me and I'll start over.

Thanks,

Michael

Not trying to be a dick, but I would very seriously urge you to test the burn rate of Volara before you use it, or at least before you use it in your girlfriend's car. Scared me when I tried it.

Drippy flaming rockets of awesomeness...

Not trying to be a dick, but I would very seriously urge you to test the burn rate of Volara before you use it, or at least before you use it in your girlfriend's car. Scared me when I tried it.

Drippy flaming rockets of awesomeness...

Exactly correct. I'd be very surprised if insurance covered damage from a fire that was caused by someone lining a vehicle with a dangerous material - in the same way they won't pay for the extra costs to repair sheet metal that is covered with layers of aftermarket vibration damper. It's surprising how much more new sheet metal and paint costs than pulling, mud and blending.

I think it's hilarious that you've burned Voloara too

Exactly correct. I'd be very surprised if insurance covered damage from a fire that was caused by someone lining a vehicle with a dangerous material - in the same way they won't pay for the extra costs to repair sheet metal that is covered with layers of aftermarket vibration damper. It's surprising how much more new sheet metal and paint costs than pulling, mud and blending.

I think it's hilarious that you've burned Voloara too

Oh come on Don... you know me... I light EVERYTHING on fire!

I moved all the off topic stuff to another thread here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/49747-sound-deadening-on-a-budget-off-topic/

I felt like it cluttered an otherwise very good topic.

Bad news - let me put this as delicately as I can - I once asked the owner of Fatmat how it was different from Peel & Seal. He refused to answer the question. Interesting fact is that the same guy owns a roofing supply company that sells P&S.

Ok, so I started with the Fatmat tonight.

I also happened to have a roll of Peal N Seal leftover from my Focus.

So I compared. Without a doubt, there are definitely similarities. For sure they are both manufactured by the same company. Same overall thickness, same foil thickness, same type of sticker/label securing the roll, even the same font.

However there is also an important difference too. The Peal N Seal is most definitely an asphalt based product. You can smell it when opening the package and you can see how the oils have bled out of the product after it has sat for a long time. The roll I have sat in the same place for 2 years. The FatMat appears to be a butyl based product. Different texture - far more flexible and "rubbery" - than the Peal N Seal. It also has a different odor and less of an odor at that.

Is it effective? Probably not as effective as a thicker 60 or 80mil product, but it's good enough to get rid of the "tinnyness" in the outer door skins. So, just for fun, I used my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter to do some testing.

With a hair dryer running at full blast outside the door, the door with the Fatmat showed a 10db decrease over the bare door.

I'm sure my test wasn't very scientific, but it's enough to at least show me that the Fatmat is doing *something.*

So I guess I'll find out how well it all works after my spontaneously combustible volara and the MLV is installed.

Thanks,

Michael

Edited June 18, 201114 yr by Radius

Bad news - let me put this as delicately as I can - I once asked the owner of Fatmat how it was different from Peel & Seal. He refused to answer the question. Interesting fact is that the same guy owns a roofing supply company that sells P&S.

Ok, so I started with the Fatmat tonight.

I also happened to have a roll of Peal N Seal leftover from my Focus.

So I compared. Without a doubt, there are definitely similarities. For sure they are both manufactured by the same company. Same overall thickness, same foil thickness, same type of sticker/label securing the roll, even the same font.

However there is also an important difference too. The Peal N Seal is most definitely an asphalt based product. You can smell it when opening the package and you can see how the oils have bled out of the product after it has sat for a long time. The roll I have sat in the same place for 2 years. The FatMat appears to be a butyl based product. Different texture - far more flexible and "rubbery" - than the Peal N Seal. It also has a different odor and less of an odor at that.

Is it effective? Probably not as effective as a thicker 60 or 80mil product, but it's good enough to get rid of the "tinnyness" in the outer door skins. So, just for fun, I used my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter to do some testing.

With a hair dryer running at full blast outside the door, the door with the Fatmat showed a 10db decrease over the bare door.

I'm sure my test wasn't very scientific, but it's enough to at least show me that the Fatmat is doing *something.*

So I guess I'll find out how well it all works after my spontaneously combustible volara and the MLV is installed.

Thanks,

Michael

Since Fatmat doesn't even claim their adhesive is butyl anymore, I'd be surprised. Dissolve a piece of both in an ounce of mineral spirits. The liquid will turn brown (asphalt). The difference you're seeing is what happens to asphalt after a year or two.

Oh come on Don... you know me... I light EVERYTHING on fire!

Scary but I like it.. Alot! lol

I bought second skin pretty steep but feels like a stout product !

Bad news - let me put this as delicately as I can - I once asked the owner of Fatmat how it was different from Peel & Seal. He refused to answer the question. Interesting fact is that the same guy owns a roofing supply company that sells P&S.

Ok, so I started with the Fatmat tonight.

I also happened to have a roll of Peal N Seal leftover from my Focus.

So I compared. Without a doubt, there are definitely similarities. For sure they are both manufactured by the same company. Same overall thickness, same foil thickness, same type of sticker/label securing the roll, even the same font.

However there is also an important difference too. The Peal N Seal is most definitely an asphalt based product. You can smell it when opening the package and you can see how the oils have bled out of the product after it has sat for a long time. The roll I have sat in the same place for 2 years. The FatMat appears to be a butyl based product. Different texture - far more flexible and "rubbery" - than the Peal N Seal. It also has a different odor and less of an odor at that.

Is it effective? Probably not as effective as a thicker 60 or 80mil product, but it's good enough to get rid of the "tinnyness" in the outer door skins. So, just for fun, I used my trusty Radio Shack SPL meter to do some testing.

With a hair dryer running at full blast outside the door, the door with the Fatmat showed a 10db decrease over the bare door.

I'm sure my test wasn't very scientific, but it's enough to at least show me that the Fatmat is doing *something.*

So I guess I'll find out how well it all works after my spontaneously combustible volara and the MLV is installed.

Thanks,

Michael

Since Fatmat doesn't even claim their adhesive is butyl anymore, I'd be surprised. Dissolve a piece of both in an ounce of mineral spirits. The liquid will turn brown (asphalt). The difference you're seeing is what happens to asphalt after a year or two.

I guess you get what you paid for

I guess you get what you paid for

How many years have people been saying this, yet so many people still insist on going cheap. My favorite are the people who go with a $1 sq. ft. product and use three layers of the stuff... didn't that just make that $1 sq. ft. product $3 a sq. ft.? Math fails people like that.

Have you heard anyone complain about the performance of SDS's or Second Skin's products? Hell you can even throw Dynamat Xtreme in there too.

The only complaint I ever seem to hear is price...

Second skin, doesn't it cost you like 10 cents to make 120sqft of deadener?