June 18, 201114 yr Author This would be my first build. I'm definitely not spending thousands of dollars at most $1500. My money is oncoming so a $20 volt meter will be fine. I wouldn't stare at it continuously. But if My voltage drops for any reason which it might, I can see it before finding fucked up parts under my hood or in my trunk, then there's the crazy expenses. I appreciate the ideas from both sides. But I'm going to go with this. Im gonna try to mod the volt meter so it has a on off switch so I can turn it on when I want to check my volt level and turn it off when I don't. That way there wouldn't be a bright digital light on all the time(especially at night). I would love to be able to know that my system won't fail. But I can't be so sure I'm running 1500 watts rms on a pretty tight budget but I want to see if I can make it work. Appreciate the help guys.
June 18, 201114 yr ^^ You are going to "try" and mod the voltmeter to turn on and off via switch?If you are unsuccessful.. quit car audio, lol... Also, after reading page one, multi runs of power or ground from front to back is ONLY necessary if you have a large alt or alts up front.That single battery up front, even if it's a G31 will not help you nowhere near as much as the batt(s) in the rear will.So.. stick with running wire that meets the requirement for your alternator instead.
June 18, 201114 yr Author That's what I thought at first but everyone said it would be ok to run two batteries on a stock alternator lol. I've been researching and a bigger alternator isn't that much expensive so I plan on buying it in the next month or two. I already bought my other stuff and I'm at $965. All I need is my custom box and batteries. (and alternator)
July 20, 201114 yr I do have a question. Why run power and ground wires from battery A (front), to batt B (rear)?Since both batts will be ground to the chassis/frame, would this not be sufficient?
July 20, 201114 yr I do have a question. Why run power and ground wires from battery A (front), to batt B (rear)?Since both batts will be ground to the chassis/frame, would this not be sufficient?The vehicles frame may not be as efficient as a ground wire from battery to battery.
January 5, 201213 yr old thread but hey what gives but anserws right!! ^^ thread jack again lol! so right now i have an extra batt in the back i only have a ru of positive to the back and the batt in the back is grounded to my frame its ok right? just of course there is good ground/conductivity in the back right ? i also heard when connectiong a batt from front to back in parallel it creates a diff load or amperage can someone explain?? and hows your system doing OP?? did everything work out for you?
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