only comin from one port tho. ive got 2 ports on the side right side of my box, and theres only noise comin from the top port not the bottom... do i have too little port area?

edit: 16" long each

When my port makes noise my wife makes me put a cork in it.

how big is the flare?

they are the 3" precision flared ports... not too sure how big the flare is... its funny cuz only one makes noise.

Some of your internal bracing may be restricting the lower port. If your driver is closer to the upper port, you may want to install some sort of interior baffel or partition material to balance the rear driver reflections to both ports equally.

I would have someone with Bass Box Pro or a similar program to check your box calculations too. I beleive the Precision Products website has a simple calculator you can use.

I had port noise problems with my original sub design and switched to passive radiators, probably not feasable in automotive use.

If the noise gets any worse in the mean time, I would keep a roll of

t-p handy.....

Mike

hehe tp sounds nice :

actually tboth ports are the same distance away from each other.... could it also be that the pole vent on the sub is only 1" away from the back of the box?

hehe tp sounds nice :

actually tboth ports are the same distance away from each other.... could it also be that the pole vent on the sub is only 1" away from the back of the box?

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Vance Dickason reccomends that ports should not extend any closer than 3" from the rear of the cabinet. You may need to go to larger porting to reduce the length. Personally, I wouldn't try to put a 90 degree elbow in them.

Mike

hehe tp sounds nice :

actually tboth ports are the same distance away from each other.... could it also be that the pole vent on the sub is only 1" away from the back of the box?

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Vance Dickason reccomends that ports should not extend any closer than 3" from the rear of the cabinet. You may need to go to larger porting to reduce the length. Personally, I wouldn't try to put a 90 degree elbow in them.

Mike

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no the ends of the ports are 20" away from the sub. its the Pole vent on the sub itself that is 1" away from the wall of the box

my dimensions are: (LxWxH) 40 X 9 X 14.5

That sucks.

To bad you cant hear it in your car anyways

bugz the crap outa me with the trunk open tho.

if i mod the box so that the pole vent of the sub is farter away from the wall of the box would that fix the prollem?

Probably not.

Who listens to music with their trunk open anyways ?

Probably not.

Who listens to music with their trunk open anyways ?

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i wanna fix my car up to one day be a show car... when my trunk is open, i want things to be near flawless

i guess ill have to mod my box or something then, add a baffle, cut the holes bigger or SOMETHING... ill try to figure it out.

Probably not.

Who listens to music with their trunk open anyways ?

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i wanna fix my car up to one day be a show car... when my trunk is open, i want things to be near flawless

i guess ill have to mod my box or something then, add a baffle, cut the holes bigger or SOMETHING... ill try to figure it out.

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I would go from 3" to 4" ports. That would be the easiest and cheapest way to go. Be sure to re-calculate the port size lengths with your cabinet volume. They would look cool too....

Make sure you use the flared ends both inside and outside the cabinet that came with your Precision Ports.

You may also want to have a small amount of dampening material in the sub to absorb any pole venting noise. I would keep it to a minimum so your box calculations aren't affected.

Man that's what this DIY stuff is all about....It can sometimes be a challenge to get it right!

Mike

Edited January 7, 200619 yr by mfishmike

pole vent should be NO CLOSER to any pannel,than the port vent is wide.so if the pole vent is 1.5 it has to be at least 1.5 from any pannel, at least thats the way i understand it. i guess the air inside your box is somehow favoring one port, trying to divide the pressure inside the box to show each port equal pressure (a small mdf piece place thoughtfully somewhere?) might solve your problem?

yea this box is gonna be for my GZ nuke also. im gonnna extend the area where the sub is around 3-4 inches so it will have enough breathing room.

thanks for all your suggestions! me learn lotsa

well, i guess im gunna just bash out the side of the box with a hammer, and stick a slab of mdf creating a vented port 1.75x13 23.5" long (givin it around 22" of port area), and putting another side on. i dont have enough length for 2 4" flared tubes. how does that sound? im keepin within the 8:1 rule and it will take up less overall internal volume than goin 2 4" tubes.

yea this box is gonna be for my GZ nuke also. im gonnna extend the area where the sub is around 3-4 inches so it will have enough breathing room.

thanks for all your suggestions! me learn lotsa

well, i guess im gunna just bash out the side of the box with a hammer, and stick a slab of mdf creating a vented port 1.75x13 23.5" long (givin it around 22" of port area), and putting another side on.  i dont have enough length for 2 4" flared tubes.  how does that sound? im keepin within the 8:1 rule and it will take up less overall internal volume than goin 2 4" tubes.

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Give it a shot.....be sure to have the ports flared inside the cabinet too... Good luck!

yea this box is gonna be for my GZ nuke also. im gonnna extend the area where the sub is around 3-4 inches so it will have enough breathing room.

thanks for all your suggestions! me learn lotsa

well, i guess im gunna just bash out the side of the box with a hammer, and stick a slab of mdf creating a vented port 1.75x13 23.5" long (givin it around 22" of port area), and putting another side on.

yea this box is gonna be for my GZ nuke also. im gonnna extend the area where the sub is around 3-4 inches so it will have enough breathing room.

thanks for all your suggestions! me learn lotsa

well, i guess im gunna just bash out the side of the box with a hammer, and stick a slab of mdf creating a vented port 1.75x13 23.5" long (givin it around 22" of port area), and putting another side on.

hmmm i guess id better double check on the inside flare.... but then again mike (the SS mike :) reccomended 2 4" and the 4" would be too long. so i dont know.

BAH il just smash out the side and stick a slab of wood in there if your idea dont work hehe

Well hot damn, nice job steppin' up to the plate for flakko everyone! Seems like he has plenty of viable options to choose from here and I just wanted to chime in (for anyone else skimming these threads) to note that the RL-p12 should have a minimum of 20 sq inches of port area.

That's all, now get to Frankensteining that enclosure!

will do mike! ill keep yall update!

just. gotta. cut. straight.

cut these holes pretty good tho. ask camry_tuner!

gonna look totally different when im done with this baby

Notice the ports I have on my front lower baffel. I had to cut off the bottoms due to my eggcrate liner, but you can see what I'm talking about. You should have two left over flared ports from your project. You may have to remove the driver to get it inside the cabinet. Your three inch tubes should have dual flares too. Just cut off an inch from the tube and glue the flare on. Make sure that each flare = one inch of flare length.

Mike

Edited January 7, 200619 yr by mfishmike

woah nice work!!!

You should have two left over flared ports from your project

why should i have 2 left over flared ports?

im confused! really confused! ive already got the ports installaed and the end flares are glued on...

email me at [email protected] with your phone number and I'll call you right now. It's free for me.

Mike

numba sent