When i try to turn on my truck it crancks but then it doesnt go on.. I try again and it clicks...if i get a jump it starts and it shows normal voltage...i unplugged my system but it still keeps on doing it...plus i have the big 3 and the fuse from alt to batt melted...not blown just melted the casing...

Starter issues?

But it starts when i get a jump...

But it starts when i get a jump...Its a 2008 yukon

If your starting from a jump then I don't see why your starter would be an issue.

Whats the float voltage on your battery and or batteries?

What size fuse did you use between your alt output stud and positive battery terminal? If it melted then too much current went through it, but I'm not sure why it didn't just pop.

Something fucked up (not sure what or how) and your fuse melted, your alt could no longer charge your batteries, and you drove it enough that your batteries are dead. That's my guess.

But it starts when i get a jump...Its a 2008 yukon

I used a 300amp fuse...i only have the stock batterie...

Its stays at 14v but when its dead my stinger voltmeter says "lo"

Its stays at 14v but when its dead my stinger voltmeter says "lo"

Currently:

With the engine off, what's the voltage at the battery?

With the engine on, what's the voltage at the battery?

Is the fused wire from the output stud to the positive battery terminal, the only wire going from the output stud on the alt? (only wire charging batteries, stock electrical, etc)

You get a jump and it shows normal voltage..your starter and alternator work.. have you thought your battery took a shit?

Batteries are dead, or dieing.

Truck on voltage says 14.4

Truck off voltmeter say "lo"

check the grounds

Truck on voltage says 14.4

Truck off voltmeter say "lo"

Batteries are dead........ After the truck is on it runs off the alternator.

Thanx bass...just to be safe ill take a trip to autozone tomorrow

So your alternator is still supplying power, to what specifically and what not specifically, I don't know since I can't see under your hood and don't know what all is going on down there.

But it's blatant that your batteries are toast. You could try throwing them on a charger, low amperage, high voltage, overnight. Might be able to bring them back, maybe not.

X2 post

Edited October 11, 201113 yr by Elrey7698

I have big 3, 3 15" rf p2's at 2.67 ohms...and a hifonics bxi2010s amp...2000w rms but at 2.67ohms im only doing 800w...also hid fogs and headlights...35w kits

Replace your starting battery as the other one is dead!

I agree. I had the same problem with my camry. Wouldnt start but when they jumped it it would stay on. I took my battery to autozone and they load tested it and they said it wasnt holding a charge. Time to change your battery.

Seems to me that it's clearly the battery. Definitely go to Autozone and check, but I'd be willing to bet that it's your battery. Your fuse holder melting is a separate issue that you have to address. How do you know that the fuse isn't blown? It might be and not look like it which could also cause this problem.

I took off the battery and ran my multimeter and it says 9v so it looks like my batt is done...the blown fuse didnt alow for much charging so my batt died a slow deAth...how much is a good start up batt?

I took off the battery and ran my multimeter and it says 9v so it looks like my batt is done...the blown fuse didnt alow for much charging so my batt died a slow deAth...how much is a good start up batt?

A lot choices out there. Look for an OEM replacement or an AGM from XS, Kinetik, Odyessey, Deka etc.

I took off the battery and ran my multimeter and it says 9v so it looks like my batt is done...the blown fuse didnt alow for much charging so my batt died a slow deAth...how much is a good start up batt?

For my start up battery I always use a battery from Autozone or Walmart that has a good warranty. I've gone through a few batts just using the warranty and it is kind of nice to just bring it in and get a new one on the spot. If you want a better battery listen to 98GMC.