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"Breaking In" Subs. Do you do it or not. 39 members have voted

  1. 1. "Breaking In" Subs. Do you do it or not. Either Answer you choose, Please explain why Below.

    • Yes I do.
      14
    • No I don't.
      23
    • It Depends on Time Constraints.
      3

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I can see someone popping a spider joint, due to the very uncompliant suspension, but that needs to be taken in a case-by-case basis.

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  • The more you play it, the suspension may soften a tad, I think it lowers the Fs? But you don't need to "break it in" like you would a car. From day one, you can let it rip.

  • It depends on what you mean by "break in". If by "break in" you mean playing the driver at a low volume for some arbitrary period of time then no, that is a useless endeavor. The only way to "break

So why does AudioQue recommend a break in period...??! Let me guess.....cause there Chinese parts.?!

LOL

Im sure there are other companies that recommend that also

Actually AQ (as other companies) use that as a warranty tactic. As with many companies I worked for it is a loop whole, and if any company tries to say you didn't properly break in your sub. Call bs and force them to prove it to you. There is 100% no way to tell how a sub was "broke in".

As for spider failures, no. Those will fail regardless at some point. There is no mythical or magical break in for subs.

Edited by pro-rabbit

I can see someone popping a spider joint, due to the very uncompliant suspension, but that needs to be taken in a case-by-case basis.

Then the glue/glue job was shit to begin with if you're popping a spider because the suspension is just stiff.

Usually happens above the rms of the sub though. Where people run double the rms on a brand new sub is where a failure like that would happen I think.

The RMS has nothing to do with anything mechanical. It also has nothing to do with how much a drivers needs, at all. It is one of the most overly emphasized but irrelevant spec.

I can see someone popping a spider joint, due to the very uncompliant suspension, but that needs to be taken in a case-by-case basis.

Then the glue/glue job was shit to begin with if you're popping a spider because the suspension is just stiff.

Believe me or not, I don't care. It's happened to me, I've launched a coil out of the gap, it popped the glue joint and the coil rested on the top plate. The combination of a strong motor, long coil, and uncompliant suspension can be detrimental if too much power is applied.

Sounds to me like there was simply too much power applied, period. If you jump a coil, that's not a fault of the suspension, that's the fault of too much power. In this case I would agree with Phi....if the spider joint broke, then it was either overexcurted to the point failure was imminent anyways or the glue joint was bad to begin with. Either way, if the coil left the gap.....it was way overpowered.

Haha which reminds me, I put 1000 watts to a 100 rms 8 and went way below tuning(22hz with a 36hz tuning and no ssf) the coil stuck on the top plate ha I laughed hard.

If the glue joint hadn't failed the coil would have stayed linear.

That's true. It was playing fine until the spider pulled away from the joint on 1 side. I could see the coil come about 2 mm out of the gap at full excursion!!

Edited by Dangrebel

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