I've always ran 1/0 power and grounds on my systems.. 2 situations I've ran into..

1. My dad is ALWAYS telling me I should run 4awg wire, thinks 1/0 is way too much. Almost as if its bad to run a wire that size.. my system isn't huge just a sundown1500 another ~600 rms highs amp with a ho alt...is that just an old school way of thinking?

2. I recently bought a bunch of 1/0 CCA knukonceptz wire and I think I'd rather go with some OFC instead. Friend of mine has recently bought a audiopipe 1500 from me and has no wire. Stock everything..I want to sell him all this CCA wire I have to buy what I really want.. my original thinking is it should work fine (after adapting to 4 GA for the amp input) but my dad keeps getting me thinking lol.

Is there any negatives here? I prefer the bigger wire regardless but should I be considering the smaller wire in these smaller installs? Just need some reassurance or something. Thanks

There isn't any downside in performance, or anything to worry about.

1/0 cant do anything but help

I would do it

look at it like this!

1/0 can handle around 245amps (i think knu rates their wire at 300amps)

4awg can handle around 60amps

so on 12volts and 245amps, 1/0 can support 2940 rms setup (245x12v=2940, but please remember that when you upgrade your cars electrical and add batteries your voltage will be around 13.1-14.4 depending on how far you go)

and on 12volts and 60amps, 4awg can support 720 rms setup (60x12=720)

so the 1/0 gauge also has a bigger cross sectional area then the 4awg there for there is less resistance and it is also able to handle a lot more current! and on a ground the bigger the wire the better!

just some numbers to look at.

keeping in mind back in the day a sound system would most likely be under 1000rms at a higher impedance, and today hell 1000rms is minimum for most people! so to your dad it is over rated but to me if you using 1/0 all that means is you will be upgrading some day down the road!

wire chart

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

look at it like this!

1/0 can handle around 245amps (i think knu rates their wire at 300amps)

4awg can handle around 60amps

so on 12volts 1/0 can support 2940 rms setup

and on 12volts 4awg can support 720 rms setup

so the 1/0 gauge also has a bigger cross sectional area then the 4awg there for there is less resistance and it is also able to handle a lot more current! and on a ground the bigger the wire the better!

just some numbers to look at.

keeping in mind back in the day a sound system would most likely be under 1000rms at a higher impedance, and today hell 1000rms is minimum for most people! so to your dad it is over rated but to me if you using 1/0 all that means is you will be upgrading some day down the road!

wire chart

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

very true length does play a part but I am assuming you aren't going over 25ft of wiring! but good point stefan

Exactly what I've always thought just was having a hard time explaining it to him. He says for a long run then maybe its OK but for the big 3 and any run under 5` its stupid.

As far as upgrading in the future... hit that nail on the head lol. Always. Thanks for the responses.

but be careful bass and car audio is an addiction and i have been trying to get help for years, although all i end up doing is upgrading.. i think i am hooked and doing something wrong lol!

and yes it is over kill for the big 3 as those runs are quite short and from my chart above it states 4awg can handle over 2500watts or 225amps at less then 4ft but to be safe and normally when people buy 1/0 they have about 10ft left over so they just end up using it for the big 3 as it can't hurt!

hell go big or go home!

although in my next build I will be looking into some 4/0 ask your dad what he thinks of 4/0!

Your not tellin me anything lol. I've become a car audio horder buying countless things that I have no use for but just want at the time.... Not just an addiction but an expensive addiction

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation.

Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits.

Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

Get the 1/0 and be done with it. No need to upgrade later unless you go nuts.

Both of those charts are a joke. Insulation type, temp rating, conduit size, length (as mentioned), etc . . There are many factors that determine ampacity.

I only buy 1/0 I was more or less looking for a semi technical explanation as to why it won't hurt anything and it's not as overkill as he may think. I believe you guys have provided that. Thanks!

nothing wrong with CCA in your situation either IMO

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation.

Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits.

Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself.

Wire a = 10v, 100a

wire b = 100v, 10a

^Is wire a hotter then wire b, assuming lengths are the same?

hell go big or go home!

although in my next build I will be looking into some 4/0 ask your dad what he thinks of 4/0!

+1

nothing wrong with CCA in your situation either IMO

I have a crescendo bc2000 that's goin in 1st sure cca would be cool for that but I plan to upgrade to the bc3500 or if funds allow the bc5500, so I'd like to just run the good stuff so I don't have the urge to redo it later

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation.

Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits.

Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself.

Wire a = 10v, 100a

wire b = 100v, 10a

^Is wire a hotter then wire b, assuming lengths are the same?

All other things equal, yes.

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation.

Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits.

Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself.

No, the issue is voltage drop. Typically most charts used in automotive applications reference minimum wire gauge for a given length and current in relation to a maximum acceptable voltage drop of .5V, not a current or thermal limit.

The limit of the metal itself is referred to as the fusing current. Generally speaking the insulation will begin to be compromised long before the melting point of the metal wire itself is reached.

Amperage capacity is also dependent on length. Shorter runs can handle more amperage, and vice versa.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation.

Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits.

Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself.

No, the issue is voltage drop. Typically most charts used in automotive applications reference minimum wire gauge for a given length and current in relation to a maximum acceptable voltage drop of .5V, not a current or thermal limit.

The limit of the metal itself is referred to as the fusing current. Generally speaking the insulation will begin to be compromised long before the melting point of the metal wire itself is reached.

Thanks for the enlightenment.