I figured this is a great place to post this. Anyways. . .

My current occupation involves a great portion of the automotive electrical field. I have access to a myriad of 24V alts, and I'm wondering how feasible it would be to make some 24V amps. I would love to have half the current draw, but I don't know about the 24V electronics and interference between them and the 12V system the other accessories would run on. I have a guy I'm coordinating with right now on the amplifiers, but I'd like to get some more input. Thanks!

I am curious as to how to decrease the current to the regular electrical and acessory parts of the vehcile,

there was talk a little while ago about the transition to 48 volt systems

I am curious as to how to decrease the current to the regular electrical and acessory parts of the vehcile,

there was talk a little while ago about the transition to 48 volt systems

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I thought I'd heard a 36/42V system.

Unless you are going to run some serious amounts of wattage I dont really see the need for having a 24V amp to cut down on amperage draw.

It just doesnt seem worth it.

Also, if you do actually do this if and when you sell the amps people wont like the fact that they have to run on 24V unless they were switchable.

They do it in boats for trolling motors all the time. Mine runs on 36V's. Definetely see the advantage and it is still pretty easy to charge 2 12v cells and only have the 24v for audio.

Steyr used a 24V electrical system on the Pinz, I think the Unimogs are 24V as well

Problem is, don't think you're going to find many people willing to do the mods, if they're not into SPL.

Not the voltage thats the problem

its the componets and power supply section of the amplifiers that wont take it unfortuneatly

I'm sure we'll see it in the future...as of right now there really isnt a market for it...but somebody will bite the bullet one of these days when we have the 36v cars...and engineer the new power supplies, componets etc.

if you could design an amp from the ground up to have a 24v power supply its a great idea for high power. problem wiht converting a stock 12v to 24 is switching out all the bulbs and anything you have that has to run off of 12v you have to have a pretty heafty transformer to step it down to 12 if yo uare going to have any decent current draw from it.

Just run a dedicated 24V system for the stereo. Problem solved. If you are running enough power for it to be advantagous, then you will do that.

Edited February 20, 200619 yr by ANeonRider

Just run a dedicated 24V system for the stereo. Problem solved. If you are running enough power for it to be advantagous, then you will do that.

That's my reasoning behind this.

I have no desire to build and market these for sale. Strictly for my own use. 400 amps of current draw means about 40HP just to drive the alt. No thanks. I know it won't be a continuous draw, but I have access to the 24alts cheap, and if I can get some amps built that will run on 24 volts, that's half the current, heat, and less/smaller cable.

Implementation onto the vehicle will be simple as far as the rest of the 12V electronics are concerned. There are many trucks and farm equipment that have 24V charghing/starting systems. A pair of 12V cells in series and tap off one for 12V, both for 24. I just don't know how the different voltages will interact and I'm looking for some more opinions on the amplifiers sturcture as I know little about electronics. This guy I'm working with says it can be done, but I want to get the most input as possible.

I think having more load on one 12V cell than the other would be bad.

Probably best to run a single small size/lower CCA for the accessories and starter (unless you can find a 24V starter), and a 24V batt for the stereo. Dual alternator, smaller size for both, heck, with only acc. on the 12V, you could get away with a really really small alt. Smaller alt for the 24V load too compared to what you would need with a 12V system.

I think having more load on one 12V cell than the other would be bad.

Probably best to run a single small size/lower CCA for the accessories and starter (unless you can find a 24V starter), and a 24V batt for the stereo. Dual alternator, smaller size for both, heck, with only acc. on the 12V, you could get away with a really really small alt. Smaller alt for the 24V load too compared to what you would need with a 12V system.

I see your point. Hmm. I guess they might split the difference between the batteries for truck use. 24V starter is simple. Change the field coils. Only problem would be adapting a solenoid to a PMGR starter. Maybe I'll just build a bigger alt and run on 12 volts with a constant 40 shot of NAWS! Trunk full of bass and bottles.

Change that 40 shot to a 200 shot and youve got a good combo..

Turbostart used to sell step down converters for their 16V batteries.

They made them 12V friendly. The thing cost an arm and a leg though.

Well, scratch this idea. I was just informed of my own stupidity on the matter. Damn stupid me.

Acually, it could work. Totally seperate 24v electrical, stricly for the audio. No transition for the rest of the car. In your trunk, just get a 24v bat, or, 2 12v's in series. Dont ground to chasis, tho. Have a common ground for the 24v system all on it's own. Run the bats to your specially made amp. Ground your amp straight to your battery negative. Run 2 alts, one 12v, one 24v. For the 24v one, run the positive wire back to your bat positive. The only problem would be finding something to make an amp braket out of non-conductive material, and you would have to run another negative wire clear back to your trunk as well. But you could do it like that

Thats only if you could find someone to make you an amp that runs on 24v. Oh, and if they did that, have the remote turn on still be 12v, so your HU alone would turn it on.

Edited February 27, 200619 yr by qtipextra

dumb idea in my opinion.

Hmmmm, pretty sure it wont work this way but 2 amps wired in series? throwing an idea out there.

lol, definately wouldn't.

how is the issue of charging a stand-alone system?