Hey guys,

I have an 07 Tundra and I wanted a quiet ride. I laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme and a layer of mass load vinyl from Second Skin (Luxury Liner Pro) on the entire floor and rear wall of the truck. It cut down the noise considerably. Now I can hear engine noise (coming through the fire wall in the front (which not much I can do about that) and exhaust/road noise coming through the doors. I think I can definitely do something with the doors.

What material do you suggest to cover the doors? A layer of Dynamat Extreme? I read that Dynamat will cut down vibration, not so much with noise. The Mass Load Vinyl (Lux Liner Pro) is the stuffs for noise...however is too thick and I'm afraid the panel won't go back together.

Any idea what's the best approach here? Thanks.

john

Email Don aka Rudeboy.

second skin damp pro

or

stinger roadkill expert

both are great, stinger is cheaper on soinc, but I prefer secod skin

Do the doors just like you did the floor. As much of the firewall as possible as well.

I personally would buy dampener and vinyl from SDS. I'd highly suggest following Don's install advice as well.

*as an aside, I'd avoid the Stinger stuff for sure

second skin damp pro

or

stinger roadkill expert

both are great, stinger is cheaper on soinc, but I prefer secod skin

Those will stop vibrations, but they are not going to significantly reduce sound transmission.....which is what he's trying to accomplish.

randomwalk; You were told correct. Dynamat and other types of CLD "sound deadeners" will help reduce vibrations and resonances, but they will not significantly reduce the transmission of sound/noise. To do that, it's fairly simple; you need to block the sound with mass. The most efficient method of doing so is with MLV as you had considered. No, it's not extremely convenient but it's necessary to achieve your goal.

For some photos and a sort of step-by-step on how to go about it, I would suggest reviewing this thread: http://www.soundsolu...__fromsearch__1

I would also highly recommend you contact Don @ Sound Deadener Showdown.

i dont know about whats the best but the two top ones are second skin and dynamat

hey guys..thanks for the advices.

MLV at SDS is a single sheet....the Luxury Liner Pro I got from Second Skin is kind of like double ...the MLV and the CCF glued together into one sheet...this is why it's so thick that I think won't fit the door..

SDS the MLV is a single thin sheet so I think it'll work with the doors..I think I'll go with that...

also,

if I buy the MLV from SDS, is it self-adhesive or do I need some adhesive? Thanks.

i used the luxury liner pro on my doors.. worked great.. . no issues with the panel going back on at all .

hey guys..thanks for the advices.

MLV at SDS is a single sheet....the Luxury Liner Pro I got from Second Skin is kind of like double ...the MLV and the CCF glued together into one sheet...this is why it's so thick that I think won't fit the door..

SDS the MLV is a single thin sheet so I think it'll work with the doors..I think I'll go with that...

Double sheet is of no benefit. The only thing that matters is $/lb. The CCF does nothing to block sound as it is super light (no mass, no sound blocking) but it can help by stopping two surfaces from rubbing and of course helping to isolate the MLV from the surface it is connected to.

Same to address your "adhesive" question. You do not want to couple the MLV to the door as that defeats some of its purpose. Instead you want to "hang" it so that it can be isolated as much as possible but still be a barrier.

Excellent advices guys. Thank you.

I guess I will go with MLV from SDS and hang it on the door panel instead of the actual door...is this okay? I think it'ld be a little easier to install that way. How do you guys have it hang on your doors? drill some holes and zipties?

Velcro

ahh..even better. thanks!

Just shot Don an email to order four sheets of MLV (36"X54" (13.5 ft²) for my doors..Woot!

Got a quote back from Don. Four MLV costs is $98...shipping costs is almost $40...yikes!!! I have to think long and hard about this

It's heavy and NEEDS to be thus the shipping. No way around it. If someone ships cheaper then you aren't getting the mass you need. Only other "real" option is lead and that will cost more for the product and for the shipping.

The other option is to see if you can find a local outlet that sells MLV. Save the shipping cost. There are some differences in durability between MLV but as long as the material has the same lbs/sqft it won't make any difference in ability to block sound. And hanging in a door I don't think durability would be as big of an issue as it would on the floor where you'll constantly be stepping on it.

Do the doors just like you did the floor. As much of the firewall as possible as well.

I personally would buy dampener and vinyl from SDS. I'd highly suggest following Don's install advice as well.

*as an aside, I'd avoid the Stinger stuff for sure

care to explain why? Its thicker than dynamat thicker than damp pro, stickerier than dynamat, but not quite as easy to work with as the damp pro.... I've yet to see it not hold up... I've got it in my trunk and on a door to compare it to damp pro. Stuff works great

deader does help with sound transfer as well....

Do you guys do the good? Can we use the same MLV and use the spray adhesive to glue them to the hood or it'll melt? Thanks.

deader does help with sound transfer as well....

It "helps" as it has some mass & reduces vibrations & resonances, but much less effective at reducing actual sound transmission than a product actually designed for that purpose....such as MLV. In order to block sound you need mass. Treating his door with CLD would definitely be recommended, but he also has to incorporate MLV or a similar product in order to significantly reduce sound transmission. CLD alone isn't going to do it.

Do you guys do the good? Can we use the same MLV and use the spray adhesive to glue them to the hood or it'll melt? Thanks.

Regular MLV isn't a good idea to put under the hood. IIRC Don @ SDS has MLV w/ an aluminum face to reflect heat which is designed more for under hood treatment

Do the doors just like you did the floor. As much of the firewall as possible as well.

I personally would buy dampener and vinyl from SDS. I'd highly suggest following Don's install advice as well.

*as an aside, I'd avoid the Stinger stuff for sure

care to explain why? Its thicker than dynamat thicker than damp pro, stickerier than dynamat, but not quite as easy to work with as the damp pro.... I've yet to see it not hold up... I've got it in my trunk and on a door to compare it to damp pro. Stuff works great

Amusing, they claim less "sticky" than dynomat. Either way their marketing is misleading. Product is inferior otherwise they wouldn't hide behind words and only call it elastomeric. Wouldn't be surprised if it still primarily asphalt based, but not sure what they are selling now. Just completely turned off by companies who market that way. They attack dynomat and give no actual factual information on why they are better except price. Gee, wonder why. Either way, not interested and I would compel as many people as I know to avoid them for those reasons alone.