ohh ok I understand what your saying. so why do you say it will sound worse if I use the mb quart crossovers? they should " mate" right?

Edited April 10, 201213 yr by BavarianBeast

is there a website or somewhere where i can read up on cross over points and passive and active crossovers I understand the basics of passive and active but I would like to know some more .

ohh ok I understand what your saying. so why do you say it will sound worse if I use the mb quart crossovers? they should " mate" right?

When I said they would sound worse, I was speculating that the crossover point for the mb-quart driver isn't close to a good crossover point for the crescendo super-tweeters.

I could be wrong, but I would find it extremely surprising if their crossover points were similar enough to produce good results.

IE: for simplicity's sake, I have two speakers, A and B. Speaker A & B are both advertised with a frequency response of 60hz to 20khz. Well this is basically bullshit, but in reality Speaker A performs well from 60hz to 2000hz, and Speaker B performs well from 2000hz and up. So you would conclude that a cross over point between each speaker at 2000hz would be great, except if you spend more then five minutes tuning, you'll find that the overall sound quality will be improved when adjusting this cross over point up or down, AND the slope of the cross over (the degree of attenuation). Nothing is set in stone, and speakers will perform differently in different environments, so a active processing unit is key.

A passive crossover network is a generally a plastic box going inline from your amps to your speakers, it uses a circuit board composed of various parts to create a specific crossover point and slope.

With active processing, you can adjust the cross over point and slope to your liking. Some higher end amps allow you to adjust the filters and slopes on-board, higher end head-units also have these features, and actual digital processing units such as: rockford 3sixty.2/.3, audison bit.one, jbl ms8, etc are fed the signal from the head-unit, split it up to separate channels, then new signals are sent to amp(s).

Just fabricate a tweeter pod that covers both holes and flush mount the FT1 to the pod.