There is a lot more to it than that but it's kinda pointless to to get into it with out working the data.

For example a manufacturer has a 12" sub with an Re of say 2, a BL of 15, A moving mass of 350 grams, and an xmax of 30mm.

Now this manufacture recommends a ported enclosure with volume of 1.5-3 cubic feet tuned to 28-35 hertz.

The sub may graph out and work fine in an enclosure that's 1.5 feet tuned to 35 hertz or 3 cubic feet tuned to 28 hertz but it won't have enough motor force to control the moving mass to xmax in a 1.5 foot enclosure tuned to 28 hertz.

These numbers are arbitrary but it's one reason you can't use a broad ranged enclosure recommendation.

Double post FAIL

There is a lot more to it than that but it's kinda pointless to to get into it with out working the data.

For example a manufacturer has a 12" sub with an Re of say 2, a BL of 15, A moving mass of 350 grams, and an xmax of 30mm.

Now this manufacture recommends a ported enclosure with volume of 1.5-3 cubic feet tuned to 28-35 hertz.

The sub may graph out and work fine in an enclosure that's 1.5 feet tuned to 35 hertz or 3 cubic feet tuned to 28 hertz but it won't have enough motor force to control the moving mass to xmax in a 1.5 foot enclosure tuned to 28 hertz.

These numbers are arbitrary but it's one reason you can't use a broad ranged enclosure recommendation.

Understood. Makes sense. I suppose that's why graphing things out is helpful, yeah?

Yea, you could just type in numbers To get a graph that looks good to you. I personally prefer a BB4 alignment and use the neccesary algorithms and parameters to calculate the tuning and volume needed for the particular sub.

If you are Truely interested in the why's and how's I'd recommend purchasing a copy of the Loudspeaker Cookbook.

There are plenty of choices out there, no need to stoop down to DC drivers.

Let the flame war begin!

^^^^ where did that come from.

There are plenty of choices out there, no need to stoop down to DC drivers.

Let the flame war begin!

LOL I have noticed no one really talks DC any more.

The Lethal Injection is looking like my winner here. Fantastic curve from 30-50 in my box, and from what I've heard it can take more than 600 happily (I'm thinking around 800-1000?). My thinking is use an MB Quart ONX1.1500D, get a Lethal Injection D4 and keep the gains low, that way if I really want I can get a 2nd one. Yay? Nay?

BIG thanks to Quentin and stefan here.

Edited September 17, 201212 yr by SomeGuyDude

DC Audio is a US build house so they have to be good...

Wow.

To design a box the math is simple. Do the math.

Are you really questioning which math I'm referring to?

Dude you keep saying the drivers don't match the box and I'm saying they do, and you're not even remotely explaining how you came about this conclusion. The sentence "And for pretty much all the drivers you listed, the math on the enclosure is a fail." doesn't actually mean anything. How is the math a fail? And what math are you assuming I did?

You are saying they do based on what? You've been stubborn enough about this I am not going to spell it out. If you don't understand why you are saying what you are then ask questions, don't argue and say it again.

I'll give you a hint, you wouldn't have said what you said if you understood. So fucking try.

The Lethal Injection is looking like my winner here. Fantastic curve from 30-50 in my box, and from what I've heard it can take more than 600 happily (I'm thinking around 800-1000?).

There isn't a reason, or a good one at least, for you to supply more than the RMS power. You simply won't be able to hear a difference and you have a higher risk of damaging equipment.

What you're suggesting to do with the amp and the sub(s) is a fine idea, but yes, keep the gain down.

Like others though, I wouldn't entirely suggest switching subwoofers to any of the options you provided. Perhaps buy another w3 or try a different box design to try to better match your goals. I'm afraid you won't see the difference you're hoping for if you replace the w3 with a L.I.

You are saying they do based on what? You've been stubborn enough about this I am not going to spell it out. If you don't understand why you are saying what you are then ask questions, don't argue and say it again.

I'll give you a hint, you wouldn't have said what you said if you understood. So pucking try.

I'm saying they do based on the manufacturer recommendations and the fact that when I plug them all into WinISD I get a pretty good curve going (particularly for the Lethal and the DC). I'm trying VERY hard to get you to at least start to explain WTF I'm supposedly missing but it's like pulling friggin teeth with you.

What. Math. Is. A. Fail?

LoL

So far we've seen that you've done nothing. Perhaps plugged some stuff into WinISD, looked at some simple graphs and drew some conclusions based on what I'm not sure. As for the manu rec'd, not sure how you think comparing 1.75cuft and 2.25cuft is math.

I don't get why you think this would be an upgrade. You claim to understand and use tools that will help but the simple explanation is right in front of you. Use it.

I think you are trying hard to have others tell you something you think you want to hear so that you can move forward with what you've predetermined (based on a false pretext) that you should do.

Actually screw it. I'm not doing this dumb argument any more, haha. I'll take what I got so far, make a decision, and just be happy with it.

Big thanks to the folks here who actually helped out!

Edited September 18, 201212 yr by SomeGuyDude

Get ready to miss the w3.

I would start buy graphing different box sizes and tunings for each subwoofer to determine which enclosure parameters gives each sub their "optimal" response, then i would compare those drivers to each other in their graphed "optimal" enclosure. i put optimal in quotes because that is based on preference.

The recommended enclosure specs are generic, you want to find those specifications that will net the results/response YOU want.

Of course cabin gain plays a huge role so it might be necessary to build several boxes in order achieve the exact sound you want, but that depends on how particular you are.

I would start buy graphing different box sizes and tunings for each subwoofer to determine which enclosure parameters gives each sub their "optimal" response, then i would compare those drivers to each other in their graphed "optimal" enclosure. i put optimal in quotes because that is based on preference. The recommended enclosure specs are generic, you want to find those specifications that will net the results/response YOU want. Of course cabin gain plays a huge role so it might be necessary to build several boxes in order achieve the exact sound you want, but that depends on how particular you are.

I would start buy graphing different box sizes and tunings for each subwoofer to determine which enclosure parameters gives each sub their "optimal" response, then i would compare those drivers to each other in their graphed "optimal" enclosure. i put optimal in quotes because that is based on preference. The recommended enclosure specs are generic, you want to find those specifications that will net the results/response YOU want. Of course cabin gain plays a huge role so it might be necessary to build several boxes in order achieve the exact sound you want, but that depends on how particular you are.

Dont bother he already made up his mind. Something about a 6x9 with the tweets covered in masking tape.

I lub doing dumb shit